Man_On_Fire68

Lol don't let the old timers get to you too much. They can be harsh (especially Frosty) but they know their stuff.

Okay. Thanks for clearing that one up there, Frosty.

So, couldn't you just buy raw alumina and mix it in with a castable refractory mix?

Thanks Frosty. So just to clarify: 2'' of backer 1/2'' of castable and a thin layer of IR reflective? What about the hole in the forge liner where the nozzle of the burner enters the forge? Would you lay down castable and IR reflective around the circumference of the hole right to the shell?

Hey guys, I've been lurking these threads for some while now. I'm a relatively new hobbyist bladesmith, as I have been forging/researching knife making/blacksmithing seriously since about January. I've made about a dozen successful knives and various other things using a great coal forge, however, my coal supply is dwindling and living in northwestern Ontario, it has been exceedingly difficult to find a coal supplier. Thus, I have begun to seriously consider constructing my own one burner propane forge specifically for knife making and some longer pieces like machetes or perhaps a eventually a sword. My big question is: what would be optimal for these purposes? Since in my experience and research it is only wise to work about 5-6 inches of hot steel at a time, and propane forges will heat as much steel as they are long, would it not be best (as far as fuel efficiency goes) to have a forge that is only 5-6 inches in length?... With one burner?... Even for pieces that are exceedingly long, like a sword?...Unless you're heat treating said exceedingly long piece? Anyways, I have spent the last week on my free time (between working 50 hours a week and spending time with the girlfriend), pooling for hours over all the information available on this website available on propane forges, their designs and their efficiency. Some of the information is conflicting, some people disagree on certain areas and designs. What I am most confused about is the exact process of lining your forge in a manner that will maximize efficiency. My understanding is that there are varying degrees of qualities where refractories are concerned (you get what you paid for). This is how the lining of a forge is layered from outside shell to inside (from what I understand) -The shell is relatively thin I was thinking for my shell, I would use 14 or 12 gauge mild sheet steel -ceramic blanket 1'' -castable refractory 1/2'' (preferably high alumina content?) (how exactly is this applied to the blanket?) -thermo-reflective coating? is this a thing? is it necessary? I greatly appreciate any help and advice I can get with the design of this forge, I simply want to make sure I understand how the lining is designed to maximize efficiency while also being durable so I can get the longest amount of forging time without having to replace it too frequently, before I go buying things that I may or may not need Thanks guys, Zach

Thomas Powers, my man, thanks for your sound advice!

Okay thanks guys! Well, regardless I still pounded out a knife out of the stuff (couldn't resist). How do you guys feel about making knives out of leaf springs?

Hey guys. Just wondering if anyone has any idea on the metallurgical specifications on an L-shaped lug wrench or at least what is typical for them. I was helping a friend get rid of some garbage at one of his rental properties and came across an old lug wrench and thought it would be suitable to make a knife with. I did a spark test and it appears to high carbon steel. My guess is W-1 or some other kind of tool steel. I'm more curious than anything as to what they make these things out of but some insight into what this stuff is made of could help with an optimal temp range for heat treat. Thanks guys I will post pics of the knife!

Thank you Thomas Powers for not totally discouraging me with your response (if only the same could be said about Mr. Sells'). Fortunately, I plan to start with much smaller products such as knives to learn the basics, since that seems to be among the most common recommendations for beginner bladesmiths. Unfortunately, I live in an area with no available bladesmiths and between work and school (online college courses), my only option is to self teach, with as much research and advice from experienced craftsmen/artists such as yourselves, as I can get. So, you would advise me to get my hands on some 5160 spring steel? "The Complete Bladesmith" says it's well suited for swords, axes, really large bowies and other blades where a larger flexible blade is desired. It sounds ideal for me since, once I learn the basics and get some experience, I plan to exclusively forge swords. Lastly, I am a beginner and am still learning so try not to look down on me too much folks, especially if the answer to my questions should seem obvious; I'm simply trying to get acquire as much information as I can before I begin forging and I DO appreciate helpful responses. Thanks guys.

I do own a copy of "The Complete Bladesmith" but like all books it lacks certain specifics I thought perhaps I would get advice on this particular matter from people who know what they are talking about (not saying Mr. Hrisoulas lacks any understandings). I'm young and like most young men interested in making swords, I want to make a rather large one (eventually) such as a claymore approximately 62" from tip to hilt and perhaps 14th century-ish longswords about 36". I'm asking what dimensions I should order since I am limited as to what I can request the lengths and widths in. I would practice on mild steel before I moved on to something more expensive such as 5160 spring steel.

Hey guys. I've recently decided to forge some swords and I'm just wondering, when ordering lengths of flat bar, which dimensions are ideal for sword smithing? Do different steel suppliers have different standard lengths/widths that they sell or are they generally the same from distributor to distributor. Thanks.

Thanks for your reassurance and advice guys. Now if you'll excuse me, I've got forging to do. The hammer I used was a mastercraft ball pein from Canadian tire and, according to their site, it says the head is made from drop forged, heat treated steel and apparently is "for metal working"..

I think all I can do now is use it to work on and see what happens. I will keep my eyes open for another anvil for sure. Here's a few pics of the beast.

I'm at work right now but when I get home, I'll be sure to post a few decent pictures. And whether or not the anvil was soft before it was milled it was so badly pitted that it was almost impossilbe to tell if the hammer I was using was leaving any marks. Could it just be the hammer head that I'm using? The head on the hammer was crowned but not wholly rounded. How resistant to scratching/denying should the anvil face be? When I drop tgw hammer on it, it has excellent bounce back almost to full height for the first bounce.

Thanks guys. I'm really wishing I hadn't gotten it milled but lesson learned I suppose.