Hofi

If one calculate on 1832 degrees F the shrink/expantion factor is 1.2 %
but on average forging temp which is 1500 F IT IS 1 %
And those two numbers are easy to remember
Hofi

Alwin
Not easy to teach and to learn and to understand blacksmithing or forging technique on the net. especiely when my English is not as good.
The other thing is that most of the VDO's and photo's are taken from the side of the viewer the spctator and not the side of the blacksmith -the operator and there for the view is many times incorrect AND DECIVING
But I''ll take the chalenge and try to answer your question the way I understood them.
You''ll have to be patient with me because the preperation with the right photo's will take some time to preper. and I will post it here to this thread

You do not have to apologise for asking questions to clear technique and to learn
Just came home 10 pm forging 45 hammers and a bit tiered.
best regards
HOFI

Hello harri
i have with me only the hebrew translation of the resurch and artical
that was printed years ago in the israely hosha quaterly .
The moment i''ll get hold of the endlish version or how to get to the original i''ll send it to you
best
hofi

Part 2 of the memmeluke artifax
010 -011 hinges
012 hing decoration
013-014 prt of bronze kneckless and the decoration
015 ring handle with decorated rhoset
016-017 hinge ,one can see the fibers of the wrought iron
018 row iron bars smelted and forged ready to forge
019 tools ( chisel, points of deeging tools or wepon)

The photo's i attuch here are of parts that were forged 700 years ago on the memmeluke era (we know the date according the money that was found together as a part of the tax delivery) the photo's will be sent in two sections because i can not upload all at once
part 1
001 bent nail covered partiely with lime
002-003 nailes decorated with cast bronze heads
004 decorated iron forged nail (the point is bent)
005-006-006a folded door key (see the folding hing)
007 chain
008 handle rings
009 swivel ring with hook

ALL this started way earlyier then and the creation of the USA.
I have with me nails fro the MEMMELUK era 650-700 years ago that were found by marine archologist on a sunken ship that had on boared the tax collected at the SIRIEN regon of the kingdom on the way to the capital city CAIRO.
mOST OF THE NAIL (very big veriety) are bent in the end side the way they were bent when hammerd in . this is a sign that the houses were burend dowen and the nail collected ,in that era if or in war or if one did not pay the tax the house was burent dowen and the naile collected because of their high velue.
they found 6 bulks of 380 kg 836 lbs full with lime stone and I put one of my german student to open it slowely and to recover all the iron -bronze pieces.
It contained on top of nailes chisles,locks,decorated nails with bronze top.parts of chain, iron jewlery wepon and some pieces of raw matirial wrought iron ready for forging.
Tmorrow i'' post some very interesting photo's
HOFI

John As for your question I answered it on section 007
my self I NEVER grind the base of the anvil to fit the base plate, to my opinion it is lots of work and a waste of time. IN my smithy and I have 14 anvils on the steel three legged base. ALL of them are having a layer of ''sikaflex 11 fc'' if you give enough thick layer it will take the difference between the anvil and the base and more over it will silence the anvil completely

you can do it in two different ways :
1 to glue the anvil with the sika and the you will not be able to separate
2 to smear some oil on the base or the anvil an then it will do the ''job'' but they will not glue together

HOFI

John (m-brother)
you fabricated the stand with the materials you had in hand and it is ok but I will suggest to do some changes.

1) to cut the base plate on the sides along the lines of the anvil this will allow you to go all the way down to the floor.

2) the support for the legs the way you did will collide with you legs.

I think and I did it that the ''cross'' system will be more comfortable. connect the two front legs and then weld one cross member to the third leg by this the legs support will not disturb you at all.

I attached photo's and explain more detailed the way I do it.

004-005 two arrangements. one with a tray for the tools at forging and the other without

006 the base plat 1-3/4'' thick

007 the weld of the legs. Rhs 4''x2'' 1/4'' thick wall. If the plat is heavy duty and the legs too a) it supports better the anvil. you do not need the legs supporting or cross member .and c) which is very important the anvil base will work like a ''spring'' reacting to the hammer blows

008 one can see the pattern of the anvil base, place for the water can and upsetting shelf

009 the anvil corner support to prevent the anvil from moving

010 the arrangement of the ''only'' tools that I attach to the anvil the once that i use mostly
there is much more to say about this arrangement but it is already too long
with lots of friendship and admiration John

HOFI

Hello
try BP IO32

HOFI

Thomas Dean is speaking on a different rose made of ''one piece'' flat steell whice is the original 'rassian rose' the other rose that spikenife shows here is ''rob gunter rose''
I had students coming from Rassia and all of them new to demo how to forge a ''rassian rose'' here it meets with thomas story
thomas I think you should send some information here hoe it is forged
Hofi

Hello Mike
You do not have to be ''sarcastic'' you could mail or call me and believe me I could answer you , now that you made it public and Jeremy is joining you I have to go public too without sarcasm.

YES the Ozark anvil is similar to mine because I designed the anvil. when I started to built and teach the Ozark school I brought to late Tom the drawings of my anvil and agreed on the production of the anvil in the USA
also agreed to shear the expenses of the mold that was 7500$ 50/50 % AND SPLIT THE PROFIT IN THE SAME PROPORTION. The first 20-25 anvils were called ''HOFI ANVIL'' and Tom had only his touch mark in small on the bottom right.

Anvil no 2 is with me in Israel at my smithy. Anvil no 1 was caste from stainless steel and was broken from hammering, slowly my name ''Hofi Anvil'' was pushed down and later disappeared and the anvil became the Ozark anvil. Attached photo's of the ''writings'' on anvil no 2

For many reasons, Hofi Anvil, Hofi Hammer, Hofi dies for Sayha hammer, I terminated my relationship with him.
Tom is gone now, and I am NOT going public again on this subject any more.

If you have any questions, contact me directly.
HOFI

Here are some pic's of my anvil
johannes angele of ''angele maschinenbau'' is the world distrbuter of the anvil. He started to looke for re-sellers in the usa.
Every anvil will come with a cd ''how to use the hofi anvil''

The best for basalt and granite are o1 and d2 steels
ror basalt the d2 is tougher and you may get 60-62 hrc if properly
heat treated and tempered. The forging temp' mast be acc to the ''book'' and one must olso normalise befor the treatmernt.
The h13 will never come to hrc 60 .
It is better to do all the heat treatment and normalising in a n electric furnece with good temp control.
You may see the ''carving tools'' of noam angel in the membewr gallery
they are made of d2
hofi

Safty glasses?????????????????
Hofi

The photo's are of Hardie and Fork forged of rear lorry axle ,the same is done the jack hammer bits. They are all seat with the fuller
HOFI

Frgot I have a small very importent improovment to the flue channel .
The moment it will be instoled i''ll send you a photo.
very importent on very colled wether !!!
Hofi

VERYnice job Jr was nice for me also to see you first time in natueral size.
Hofi

THANK YOU ALL for the interest in me !!!!!!!!
I am VERY MUCH OK !!!! my place is 150 miles away from the rocket targets for now!!
the smithy prodaction is going on as regularly ,now I''m working on a restoration of an old 200 years building that was an old wine factory and glass factory.
LIFE IS GOING ON!!!!!!!!!!
THANK YOU all AGAIN FOR YOUR INTEREST
HOFI

Hello Mike
First thank you for the compliment .
Second my smithy is big and having many tools I think all togther more then 1000
so order must be maintained ,if a tool is not coming back to its place some times we look for it several month until by shear eccedent we find it .
There fore all the tongs are pinted different and located on the wall in logic groups
all the small tools are in cupbord sheves acc to the use the same with the hammers and different templates.
this I started from day 1 if you delays this type of order it will be to late !!!
this is my stat of mine .it saves lots of time and the smithy is allways under control.
If I meet you one day in on of my classe I''ll just be HAPPY
HOFI

I stor my chisels, drifts,punch in steel drawers onsheves .
Every od is heving its drawer .when having a job take the drawer to the anvil when finish put it back in order all the tools are grind and resdy for the next operation.on this steel shelf i also stor all the small jigs and specil tools i forged to help production i have there drawers to acomulate tools from
5/16''-1 1/8''
hofi

The use of a press for upsetting and more
1032
1934
1020
1030
As for upsetting with the power hammer
I recomend to upset O N L Y with the limit of the air hammer daylight !!!!!!
If you''ll take the bottom die off you are endengering the hammer !!!!!!!!!!
If by sjear mistake you 'll forge beyond the hammer daylight limit the hammer will hit the bottom holding flange and this is a dammege that is very hard to repair.
please DO NOT FORGE BEYOND THE HAMMER DAYLITE.

HOFI

Nice work
There is another way to hold the fram in place by riveting in 4 places two down and two up light flat leaf spring a bit crowned and then push the fram in place and the 4 leaf spring will hold it in place.
HOFI

Have a look at BP's
1022
1023
1024
1025
1050
1051
1003
even the last one on 1 3/4'' steel can be done by hand
have luck
and happy forging
Hofi

I use the old hair drier of my wife to get even flow of the gass the tank never freez nor the pressure but you have to remember to close it dowen when finished
Hofi

Look at BP'S

BP1008 Rivets to Length
BP1032 Hand Forged Rivet
BP1033 Forging a Rivet with a Fly Press
BP1034 Forging a Rivet with a Hydraulic Press
Hofi