Hofi

to conect the ends for the air suply you can use an used inner motorcicle tube cut to length use thin steel wire and pliers and fasten it .and you have a flexible air conection .when I started 20 years ago all my forges were conected in this way .One of them worked 10 years . if you need to cange once in 10 year it is not a problam ,you have allways enough inner tubes.
Hofi

Some of my tools for the'' hardey hole'' .
Most of my hardey hole tools are forged from one piece of steel.some times I make the tools into the prichel hole as the ''nailer'' in pic 10. if I need to rotate the tool while forging . most of them are forged from rear exel steel
Hofi

I dont believe so. I've only seen tungsten carbide being brazed on to the tool base.
__________________
Freelance Fabber is right as I said on the thread befor the TUNGSTEN CARBIDE can be brazed only !! brazing= glue .
Hofi

HOW VERY WONDEFULL ADRIAN !!!!!!!
My smithy whice is much bigger is also lokated in the natueral serounding ,horse stable and cow burn from both sides olive and fig trees around and the mountains of shamaria in the east. for me it is like forging in the natuer .
Ivery much understand the spritueal mood while forging in such an atmosphere
bravo adrian
hofi

Forgot to send tis foto's

Hofi

Sam you can not weld tungsten you can braze the tungsten with silver rod.
and you can not forge it .The tungsten will shutter !!! be carfull !!!!!!!!!
All my tools are ''HOT FIT'' AND IF YOU DO IT YOU MUST TAKE UNDER CONSIDERATION THAT THE EXPANTION/SHRINK FACTOR IS DIFFERENT THEN THE MANDREL YOU PUT ON!!
The whole system is explained on -hofi 1013 BP-
I attuch more tooling that I made the last half a year.
Before you start you must check if the tungsten you have is hard or soft with a file if it is the hard one you can do nothing only the soft one you can file or grind or cut on the lathe.
Thomas Dean the name is ALFRED and not ALBERT.
The attuched 4'' round in 4''round is the one I made in my smithy and I still have it with me while Habermman was in my smithy and I showed him the slitting possibility with the tungsten whice he never new about it before
HOFI

THANK YOU AVADON for showing the dvd (this was part 2).if one puts ''hofi anvil '' on'' you tube ''one can have the first part that explains the advanteges of the anvil.
On those dvds the sikaflex 11 fc is not yet between the anvil and the base .
The moment one puts the glue there will be no ring at all.
NO NEED to put send or led into the legs to stop the ringing it dose not help (I was there allready) it is just wast of time and money
Hofi

I think that to fill the the R.H.S hollow legs of the anvil base with either send or led is a wast of time and money.
just for the fun of itI tryed it .It DOSE NOT STOP the ring and the waight of the led one just donot need.
If one wants to privent the anvil from mooving just bolt it to the floor very fast and easy
Hofi

I use two basic and simple ways to hold tools while forging with air hammer.
In the first 4 pic's a.b.c.d there is a colar fabricated from 11/8'' square steel that seats free around the bottom die with holes to insert the tools needed
The second system in pic's e.f.g.h.i i use a heavy duty c clam to hold the tools
Hofi

Usualy for ''upsetting'' I use a rosebud to heat. there are several reasons for it:
1 heat much faster
2 very local and acurate
3 If you heat no more then a bit less then twice the OD of the steel and rotate while hammering the ''upsetting '' will stay in the center
4 one can upset many more itemes in an hour .
IF one is having no rosebud only gas forge one can use the system I show in the following
pic's
Take a piace of ceramic isolating hard board drill a hole very little more then the steel OD
stick the steel into the hole and out no more then twice the OD of the steel and put in the gas forge.
If I have many pieces of steel I use more blocks ,then when I am upsetting one the other two are still in the fire
Hofi

The very importent thing is to properly maitain the heating of the steel . I heat the steel in a system that I call '' progressive entery '' always I heat 3-4 pieces of the steel in the fire . one on tope of the fire the second a bit in the fire the theird deeper and so on.
the air is very miled and in this way in the procces of forging I allways heet all the pieces together gradualy and i gain sevaral advanteges of the system.
1 save lots of fule
2 very little scale
3 no steel is burent
4 allways I have hot steel ready to forge
5 forge more formes in a given time
6 the steel is heated all the way into the center and eaven heat
before forging I brush very shortly and then forge. then I forge on clean steel.
after finishing the forging I deep the piece for a very short instent (a friction of a second) in water and brash again. the deeping in the water makes the residue scale to shrink and ''fall '' off on the final brush . it gives the steel and the forme a very clean and shiny look.
Hofi

COREX I am teacing in Holland with CEES PRONK AT ''MONDRA ''WORKS MONDRA OPLEIDINGEN AMBACHTSWEG 38 6673 DK ANDELST
WWW.MONDRAOPLEIDINGEN.NL He is now calling for the next class may be in the fall.
doug
I just sent you a privet mail hope you got it ,any how I may be coming to teach in the fall
Hofi

The pic's are element forged during a 4 day basic class with me in Holland and Germany
Hofi

attuched some pic's taken in my gallery with the IFI Tshirts on Gary Cremeen that came to study wit me for two weeks ans Judith on of my students.
Hofi

If you look at Glens web site you may see that he is forging with a HOFI cast hammer
Hofi

Hello VALENTINE
I am attuching here a drawing of the system I use to forge this type of holes.
The drawing is based on 30 mm ODrond steel and 30 mm hole diameter because it is more clear to show and explain.
First you go to the drawing board and draw the plan.
on the upper part you can seethe 30mm steel the center line of the steel and the line A perpendicular to the steel AND THE CENTER OF THE FUTRER HOLE .
on the crossing point you draw a line 30 degrees to the steel(30 degrees just as a sample but any othe angle is ok to).
The C points are the place you put a centerpunch to mark the places of the futer hole slitting with the chisle from both sides. you mark them on the steel acc to the needed distance between the holes.
Have you done this take the chisle which is sharpen in a v like shape and put the point on the center punch and anddrive the chisel to the center of the steel until the two slots colide as the drawing show.
then tilt the chisel a bit more then 30 degrees and drive the chisle in more from both sides until you get a clean hole.
now you have to preper a steel plate with a hole driled at 32 degrees abd drive the drift into the slot through the guiding hole in the plat .
this system is very acurate and you do not need a templat to go from one hole to the other
The 2 degrees more on the plate hole is because of the pressure on the drift that push it to be less then 30.
hope thigs are clear
Hofi

60 PERS OF TONGS PARTS SHISELED/SLITTED AND DRIFTED READY FOR THE NEXT AND LAST STAGE OF FORGING FOR GERMANY ''EYE'' nd ''woop 35mm'' tongs

Hello morjens
Nice hammer if you will shorten the peen 4-5 mm you''ll get the wghit you wanted and the hammer will be more ballanced.
to forge with this type of hammer and NOT hitting your knakles you''ll have to hold the hammer the way I show in the 1000 BP'S and then you also have better control
Happy hammring
Hofi

ON 1997 when I was first teaching at the ''ozark school'' Bob Patric was my student and he took two classes with me
Hofi

With the right tooling and some training you''ll master the proces.
You must be very decisive and concentrae and you''ll have no problam.
Hofi

Craftbender hi
I want to reffer to the handles from one point of view ,the design is very nice but the welding disturbs me . I think that if you make a ''hidden welding '' drill a 7/16'' hole in the back plate and weld in that hole to the handle ,it will hold very good and no one will see the weld. just my humble advice
Hofi

Sorry for being so late with the answer was very busy with a visit from the USA.
The 54 photo you reffer too is not clear enough the hammer head es hiding the position of the hand.
So I took new photo's of the position from two different angels to have a clear sight of the hammer holding
1 flat to the anvil (when I forge with all the hammer face)
2 25-30 gegrees
3 45 degrees
what ever angel the hammer is tilted too always I forge when the hit is 90 degrees to the anvil.
one can very clear see that the thumb is suporting the handle from the side N E V E R
ON TOP
HOFI

100 3/8 '' holes that were chisele/slittered + driftes in 9/16'' and 5/8'' round steel 1045
for tongs order for Germany .
All the holes werte forged within 3.5 hours with the two chisels and 8 drift in the att photo's.
The 8 drifte are used one for a hole and falls dowen to the cooling water under the anvil prichel hole then only after the use of al the 8 you take them out of the water and start again.
The chisels are never coold evry hole I use one chisel and put aside to cool and then for the next hole i take the second chisel and so on For bigger holes som times I use 3 chisels because the cooling siquence is longer.
From time to time every 5 holes I deep the chisels in moly/graphyte solution to smoose and rase the cut.

the photo's att are tools that were forged on a two day woekshop at my smithy dedicated to to cutting tools forged out of niled steel with forge welded wedge for the cutting edge
knives ,wood carving tools,axes,throwing knives.
The grinding is not finished yet
A BP was made on the proces of the axe ,slitting the eye,forging the eye,forfing the cutting side, forging the steel wedge, cuting the slot to insert the wedge, inserting the wedge and forge welding . and final air hammer forging and oil quenching.
the hammer is a Japanes style hammer for the forge welding
Hofi

some times I write cptal letter just because I like them very much and no other reason
and also because my eye sight is not as good as it was 50 year ago.
best regards
Hofi