Hofi

In the attuched 14 pics I will show the process of forging a leaf my way
on pics 13-14 one can see that because of the way I use the anvil and the crosspeen hammer on the two opposite sides of the leaf Iget the spine of the leaf . Tleaf is forged here step by step but in production it is forged in one heat
Hofi

Twhen I started 22 years ago to forge the wood carving tools the first thing I did was a guillotine with speciel dies to form the bolster and the shank.
on pics 001-004 one can see the dies shape and how thy are instoled in the gulliotine body.
pic 005 first step with 4# hand hammer and turn slowly
pic 007-008 finel step
pic009-010 with hand hammer or in this case with the air hammer forging the shank squer+round
011 vew into the gulliotine
012the operation vew
013-015 the same profile and operation with the air hammer
hofi

Pics 19-23 sowing the ''woop'' tongs holding different type of steel hape this is the advantege of this type of tongs.
Pics 25-28 showes thw ''eye'' tongs with different type steel
pic 29 tong for 20x10 mm flat steel
hofi

The pics will show different style tools I forged along the last 22 years
The first pic is a set of tools I forged 22 years ago when I only started and payed my tution at the art school with the tools I forged.
The other pics sows diferent aproch with no wood handle some are forged from c45 steel and some from miled steel with the cutting adge forge weld with a high carbon tool steel. som of them starts with upseting to get the mashroom head for hammering and protecting the hand
Hofi

Slitted with a 4mm slitter and drifted with a 20 mm drift then to the flypress with the v block under
Hofi

The ''woop'' tongs are holding squer steel 2''x2'' or round or flat evey sahape one can not hold with regular treditional tongs .one can fined them in my 1000 hofi bp's
the ''eye'' tongs in this case are holding 1 5/8-1 3/4'' steel squer or round
i will preper a bp for them too
both the types i forge for different demention s too
hofi

Here are the photo's

The 20 pers of ''eye'' and ''woop'' tongs I forged for Germany last week from
from c45 steel (improoved 1045)

What is the hole demention (inner diameter) of the hole you want to get ???
Hofi

The photo's shows the siquence of the use of the hydroulic press to forge the crosspeen on the 2.2# hammer

Beth Cecil T SWAN is seling my hammers in the UK .
He was twice in my shop in Israel and you may get lots of information from him about the hammer. Hope it will help you to decide
the hofi hammer and the handle desigen are one unit one can not take them apart !
if one uses the hofi hammer with a different handle he can not get the maximum effitiency and ergonomy from the hammer.
I had a 23 years old lady in one of my classes that started the class with a 2,2# hammer and on the 4th day she forged with a 3,5# hammer easy . On the day we forged the per of tongs every one forged one per she forged two. She could do it only because she was from the age of 3 to the age of 23 a balet dancer and she followed the instructions 100% and was DANCING WITH THE HAMMER.
Hope I answered some of the questions on yhe forum
Hofi

Was ask to day to '' help '' but instantly i saw that it is a fake cause moomy is writing very much different .i ask the sender some questions to verify his identity and they never came back . Called Moony by phone and he told me the story

We must be very carfull with the e-mails to day some hakkers are bracking in and stealing the identity it happend here in my comunity two weeks ago
Hofi

my student Shlomo Erel that is studying with me now 14 year was prepering himself for the forging contest in STIA ITALY . The subject of the cobtest is BALLANCE. He forged as a preperation two objects :
1 DOOR HANDEL which is ballanced from the shap point if view
2 PER OF TONGS which are demonstrating the ballanmce between the
man and woman
Hofi

keith
first you must hear if it is a mechanical or air ''wistle'' they are different
if it is mecahnical you have oiling problames and this one you must solv instently it can cause sevear damege to the hammer !!!!!!!!
as john said can be a very small crack in on of the rubber pipes this will not cause dammege to the hammer but when the crack will be bigger the hammer will not operate
to check it you have to take the upper cover away and when the hammer is opperating go with your hand along the pipes and you''ll fill the leacage.
ask for spear parts original parts(pipe) from the dealler.
if all the above is OK then may be this is the natural noise of the hammer !!
the you can pot an old car mofler on the exohst steel pipe end or an air compressor mufller.
advising a problam like this far away from the problam is not eassy I hope I helped a bit
Hofi

Adrian BRAVO
My granddaughter SAHAR 21 now is going to spend the next year forging with me in the forge I do know the joy you feel .
Hofi

Joh B
ALLWAYS ASK and you do not have to apologiese I am here to answer according to my ability and knoledge.BUT not every thing can be explained and complitly understude on the site you must also try yourself ''with the same recepy one gets different kookies''
the ''wings '' are1 1/4'' the main is from 1'' and 3/4'' the parallel flar is 1''
the slot in the main is 20 mm and it cuts the pipe to 4 equel parts then with the wings that are built proportionaly the same one can adjust the air inlet from open to close and in between
some more will be explained with the pics
A Two forges ready for delivery .one with the front dor open the other close
B-C The finished instoled buener with the locking screw on the wings the fit
loose
D-E-F-G One can see the soulder on the jet that limits the depth of the jet to the right possition NO lock screw because when i rotate the wings to adjust the jet and the rubber main pipe stayes in the same position
hope it is more clear now
I am now workin on a smaller burner based on 3/4'' pipe
Hofi

Dave ? Frosty is right ! this piece you can not buy any were I turend it on the lathe
pic's 1- 3 explains it very clear ,the part is later welded to the ''wing chock'' element to hold and adjust the tip carrier possition that I also fabricat on the lath from brass.

Che Geuvara I will NEVER buy a big blu as an air hammer to suport my forging !!!!!!!!!
this machine if very much infirier to ALL the self containd hammers !!!!
the anyang-shahinler-kuhn-and say-mack are very much better hammers then the big blu
I know them and I operated all of them for a long time.
With the price you pay for the 155 blu the hammer and the compressor you can buy two anyang 88 that are much stronger and will last a life time when the blu after 10 yeaes will be a piece of junk , the blu is a fading out hammer.
I helped the blu owner Dean Curfman a lot with the hammer the quick change (QC) hammer dies are MY DESIGN and some other things on the hammer the air hammer school was my idea to help and suport the marketing of the hammer dean himself was twice in my smithy in ISRAEL to learn my forging system and I did all this because he was my student and I wanted to help him out.
the other reason not to buy a blu is the very high air pressuer that those hammer operate with 140-150 psi is too a high pressuer and a not eficient one and dengerouse
ask every engeneer tht deal with air tools he will tell you the same.
Air tools are working on pressuer range between 80to max 100 and very rear.
there are some othe reasons not to buy a blu but those I''ll keep for me and will never share them in public.
Hofi

Nice ''rings'' brian but there are the first and second necking (shoulders) that may be some do not understand -- why you did the necking in 180 degrees from one to the other--
I think that to finish the lesson you should give some more pic's and explain the process.
from my humble opinion this is a very importent process in forging,we use it in many places
againe thanks for the nice rings

Hofi

PIC 1 parts of the berner befor assembling +welding and the messurments of the parts
PIC 2 welded +assembled
pic 3 two positions of opening
pic 4 the fler adjusted befor welding
pic 5 Two finished berners
pic 6 op[en position
pic 7 sami-close position
pic 8 close position

the inside messuerments of the forge are width 8'' depth 9'' hight 41/2''
the orfice (tip) is for regular use 30thou for welding heat 35-40 thou
the insulation all around is 31/2'' thick only the doors are 2''
Hofi

Thank you all for your compliment !!!!!!!!!!!!
The GAS FORGE in detaile and explaind is in the ''gas forge ''forum''
Thanks again
Hofi

pic 1 Burner compleat
pic 2 The ''wing system'' + gas tip guide
pic 3 The burner in parts
pic 4-5 FULL fire- wings in full opening position
pic 6-7 medume fire -wings in sami open posision
pic 8-9 retarded fire wings in close position

Hope this make things clear

Hofi

pic 1 The forge front door close
pic 2 The front dor open (4 1/2'' )
pic 3 The openning mechanisem ( holding with friction )
pic 4 The rear door close
pic 5 The rear door open (sits on the side pins )
pic 6 The air inlet full open
pic 7 The air inlet half open
pic 8 The air inlet closed
The air inlet is adjusted when the ''wings'' outer part of the berner is been rotated according to the type of fire one needs (oxidised,natueral or retarded )
The importent part of the burner are the wings on the sides of the outer part of the burner .They give the air a rotational moovment into the burner and by this a much better mixing properties of air/gas and therfor better and more economic fire .
the burner is operating on interval of 0.2-1.3 pounds
pic 9 Look from the side
pic 10 7/8'' squer steel heated to length of 10-11''
Hofi

ALL the leaves are forged ONLY with the air hammer!!!!!!!!!!!!
one heat to forge and preper the basic form and the second to forge the leaf.
Some times a leaf is forged in one heat only.
for the forging process one need two type of dies
1 combination dies to preper the basic form
2 crown dies to forge the leaf
between those two one can forge all this type of natural organic forms
I keep all the time 4-5 pieces of steel in the gas forge.
I preper now a set of pics about the gas forge ,the most interesting thing is the burner
IF finish to day I ''ll submit the pics
Hofi

40 leaves forged in 2 hours from 3/4'' steel with two air hammers ,shahinler 50 kg and anyang 25 with my new desigened gas forge
Hofi

If the ''compressor ramm'' is opperating and the ''hammer ramm''is not operating an the machine is oiled thre can be two rerasons to the failier
i the ''opperating valv'' on the right side of the hammer is not in the right possision
2 there are two rubber pipes conected to the ''hammer ramm'' the bottom one is burst (you can heaer it when you run the hammer) replace the pipe .
N o t an eassy job ,and you must fined a high preassor pipe or mail the agents and get one
check also the v driving belts if they are not in order change them too
this is the first thing to do !!!!!!!!!
Not an eassy job too
best luck

hofi

hofi