Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About C.Anderson

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Glendale, AZ USA
  1. LOL subscribing...'crap-agane', gotta love it =D.
  2. Ditto, well said Sam =D. I know this is an older post, but if my minimal experience can be helpful, I'd like to give it. Take the advice of the others...make a couple knives from rail spikes first. See if you naturally have the skills and hammer control necessary. If you don't, practice...and don't get discouraged. A LOT of flubs in forging can be fixed in finishing, just be sure to forge with room for error at first. I've made four blades I count as successful in my life, of five attempts, over the course of about six months or so. The last being a 25" nagasa (blade length) Japanese
  3. Wow, thanks Brian...great thread. I have a feeling I may ruin one or two before I get the whole 'drift/punch' thing down. Might be worth buying that steel just to practice drifting 1 3/4" steel lol. Thank you also for giving me another avenue of research =D. Cris
  4. Thanks Matt, I figured I'd probably drill/cut out the beginnings of the slot, then drift the remainder. I'll keep the rotating thing in mind...as well as lube. I also figure 1045 will be the ticket, as my heat treat setup is pretty primitive lol. Cris
  5. That's good to know. I can get 24" of 1 3/4" round from Speedymetals for less than $20. That's 16.3lbs as shipped. Less forging losses maybe 15lbs. That's enough for a good 5lb, 3lb, and 2lb hammer...and then some. Guess we'll see how I do slotting the eye lol. http://www.speedymetals.com/ps-3886-100-1-34-rd-hot-rolled-1045.aspx =D Cris
  6. Thanks for the quick answers guys. I was thinking about it this morning and it would probably be better to order a couple short rounds of even 1045 (or one of the alloys) from Speedymetals. Appreciate the help! Cris
  7. Hello everyone! I've been a member here for a couple years, but I believe this is my first post. I have a question for you guys regarding hammer steel. I was at my local surplus shop today, and they had a 1 3/4" round piece of steel about 30" long. The owner wasn't sure what it was, but said it was most likely mild structural of some sort, with 1018 or 1045 likely. Here's a picture: Anyhow, my question is...would 1018 (worst case) be worthwhile at all to use for a hammer? I know some prefer hardened hammers, and some normalized. I don't have enough experience to know for myself to
  • Create New...