Sam Salvati

I dont know if that could be called a suffolk latch, but very nice work either way!

on the "Male" side for the ram cap, is there a ring? to make more of a seal into the internal hollow of the ram.

Owen is there a piston ring on the end of the front piston cap?

I wont mind using someone else's haha, but would not ever own one

Your contact wheel does not need to be so long, it will put unneeded stress on the motor bearings.

Not like the nazel then I think, much nicer because much simpler! I am probably the only guy here who would turn a nazel around and sell it anytime one came my way.

I think it acts like an air cushion, as well as an internal guide? Not 100% though. There should be a cushion plug underneath the upper die?

That has the hollow piston like a nazel.

Thanks guys,

Steve I made it.

Thanks Mike!

Waiting some extra hours for steel delivery, i tried my hand at a wrap and weld pipe hawk. Hawk body is mild steel with a rr track moustache clip insert, the bowl is mild steel. Bowl is press fit for now, will silver solder it before fitting the handle. Gonna pick up a predrilled curly maple. A very cool project, had alot of fun, will definitely do it again, was very easy wrapping around the drift then welding, instead of trying to drift afterwards.











2.5 hours start to finish head no handle.

Drop forging can be confusing, as at the forces applied in a drop forging environment metal get's very squishy and can deform to "fill" shapes not though possible by hand forging. Here is a video of a pick being forged, notice the width he is moving around, easy to move it in either direction.

This guy took an anvil and instead of talking about it, or waiting to find a replacement heel for it (haha) and did something, and now has a working anvil.

Enough space for each station to do it's job.

I would venture to say chromium would not be added, as chromium carbides present would cause a very jagged edge under magnified view.

I am not so sure also the holder/fixture in which he placed the file before quenching was so much to slow down the  quench (as it was not preheated, nor was the connection very ridged or tight nor does it really have any mass) as to prevent warping.

No coating in the film due to the use of molten salts. Any coating, based on your citations, would seem to either A-purely protect from oxidation and decarburization, or B- protect from oxidation and or on a small scale maybe carburize and reverse or just break even any decarb.

Or molten lead could have been used for both. I think a coating and a muffle oven was probably used for the hardening and the molten lead for the tempering. I maybe should look at Nicholsons book again.

Doubt it, lead melts at a much higher temperature then a file would be tempered at.

My mechanical bull head weight was 20 pounds, if I went less I would go higher BPMs, Depews ran around 400? they had a 6 pound-ish headweight.

I imagine molten lead was used for hardening. Or a coating and a muffle.

It is sort of a minute to learn, lifetime to master.

I am not swure the book you are talking about, was it the book by Nicholson himself?

I have a small shaper coming soon I will setup for doing some different file tooth patterns and experiments.

I dont really care much for safety, but you were losing alot of energy through that little anvil wiggling all over and feel shame for that lost energy and wasted effort. Not to mention where it looked like when the anvil wiggled forward from your swing and you nailed the edge with a sledge too LOL. Heaven forbid that sledge rebounds and bashes someone's head. But you do what you want with what you got.

Neato!

use them on that press?

it takes a long time to become a craftsman.

John thank you! Yes, sadly that is what happened to another V swage I made, POP and half of it went across the room(no one hurt). I am contantly aware of it now, in the shop i work now there is nowhere to be in the path of the piece if it goes (stuff in the way). I like the sound of a handled devil! I tried round square and hex, so far the square I like the best as the corner orients into the swage and leaves a nice sharp corner to start with, then rotation sharpens up the rest. I did as you said and slammed it in and made a bunch of flash the first time, but going slower and hotter and now i consolidate it in there well with no flash. Thanks for the advice!

Thanks Mark! Yes an angled V swage is next on order :D

Here is a product of the swage.

Well done! creative tool! A very good solution to the problem as you see it, very cool.