double_edge2

new to punching/slitting hot steel with a press, i have a question or two....and later will have more probly... for example 25mm bar to slot,.. 1) tool , h13 , geometry,...do i forge/shape as a slitter? is it best to go right through in one pass or two and not turn the steel, ie:...if i turn after one 95% pass, side b looks non the better for ware trying for a wad. speed is slow, hence the two passes for a cooling and lube. all good got some answers thanks.

only had a couple come loose,,,handle right in hard, wedge on the diagonal , test, then, a few drops of oil (linseed or machine), some taps and trim... the oil in dry climates slows the shinking of the timber, and the handle coming loose, ...dont know about soaking before you fit and wedge...i thought better after, to help lock it in, .....(I used to wedge straight, then someone said something about the stress's in the eye)...another can of worms maybe....

Dale Russell P.S . . Mike , doubt i'll make it for the 18 th , but thanks for the invite bloke

so where are all the xmas parties?, your invited here dale... Sat 18th dec....(if youre of the mind,, :-) ) goes for mite, jack, etc (bad with names....lol)

and the unofficial ab? Qld , xmas party is on the 18th dec 2010, bbq etc, enjoy, BAWA guys invited of course, load up the fj and trip across.

the catch is i need the forklift first.....and if i do that...later....lol

the little jewelers anvil on the ute( 160kg peter wright ), a bench 10t hyd press, a 15 to 20t hyd press 3 phase, a 150mm notcher cradle for a press, and a forklift, still deciding on the radial arm drill....nup....and the drill

im in oz, borax here is about $3.50au in woollies. ya get desperate, you pay post ill send ya a tub.

someone else coaxed these to my joint, 6 1/4" and a 5".....and a 7" coming.

just one of my very few thoughts... looking at their work, and the way its done, i think anyone could learn something... if they wanted to. that they are a good teacher aswell...phew! im jealous of the other aussie,(being able to afford the trip and tuition fares and time, good on him!).....lol. (and if all were available to me at one time, id be bugging them for a lesson, no matter what i thought i knew.. and can usually always be improved upon) i learn alot from what they and others post on here, i can imagine how much more would be gained from guided attendance and the practice. .....nothin to see here now .....move along!......lol

that will keep you outa the kitchen!

yeah look, that ugly non stylish platen clashes with the color of your drill gun, and just doesnt come near the shiny ally tray, ...just doesnt suit the shop,,,better send it to me.

now thats a stand, mine is a bit lighter and similar with a 30mm disc as the base and a small 40mm-50mm thick, about 250mm dia. smackerometer plate at the top. the post on mine is boxed in c chan. best comprimise between dont want it to move, but can move it, on a workshop floor.

have you rung the email mob? like yahoo or whoever and said to them you wish to reclaim the email adress? i had similar with yahoo, and they snapped it back as we spoke on the phone.

its a fire pot? go down to supercheap and get the cheapest mild rods sized to suit the house power/welder, (i use 2.4, 2.6) v the joins with a grinder and give to it. root pass and grind out any stuff ups, and 3 runs + till its full....and a bit. i use 6mm, 10mm and 1/2", along with anything else i find scrap, never had one come back. works for me.

one of the guys at the club, made a fine chisel, then engraved cold (with the chisel like stone work) his marks on to the face of the anealed, to be, mark punch. come up nice.

all that so i can then cut them up....lol that was interesting.

hey Dale, the bottle was full when it left here,....lol,

show off.....lol nice!

could play hang man with it, weld a link for cable or chain to the drift, heat the whole thing to about a dull or so orange, cool the drift, give it a whack then let it drop short on the chain,? weld and lever? gear puller welded to the drift and oxy the surround? (re drill if it snaps)(porta power good, not good at heat) or are you trying to save the tool? big air tool from the other end if there was a hole all the way through? i do the weld, heat, cool, and rip out, thing or throw in bin method for small stuff. maybe use coke/coal dust or charcoal grind? or any other high tech anti-stickerometer stuff? were you using a non sticker type stuff? biggest ive drifted by hand was four inches...made sure lots of dust(non stick).

nice. my second or third candle holder, i used old awger bits.

yep, good job. cool bender. scroll benders you will have no trouble with.

the shoes for the cubic feet disorder would be expensive? i only let it soak, to soak, by that i mean when i think the heat has soaked through (or the piece is evenly heated i do the air thing then the temper in the oven and do the garlic bread. (with melted jarlsburg).

yeah...im hip, what the mixture rate?

and id throw in a toasted ham and cheese sandwich, just for the exra vitamins..(only with Jarlsburg cheese!) and who had the condensed milk sangas? and my punch didnt heat treat right, on a side note, well...wrong treat for that steel...the punch knocked about a 2mm ledge in the steel then pretended is was a rivet head, so not sure what he used steel wise, (mighta been 4140 that i anealed, being the wrong process for the wrong steel) but we'll know when he takes it to the electronmicro bloke. i give him some h13 so we know what it is this time.