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About Yuriy

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  • Location
    SF bay, California


  • Location
    SF bay, California

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  1. ​Thanks for looking into this. I'll just bring a gas stove to play it safe. That sounds great Jake, i'll definitely be on the lookout for a sub 200# Peddinghaus to buy !
  2. Hi All, Just completed the registration! I'm a second year member of CBA but this will be my first CBA event. I've read everything on the website, but still have some questions. As a non-demonstrator or volunteer, what should I be bringing in addition to my PPE? Should I bring my hammers, tongs and hand tools? I see there is a forging contest to be held, has the theme been decided yet? I'm planning on dry camping in a tent, is there enough shaded areas for this? Or should I bring tarps to create shade? Are wood fires allowed in the camping area? Thanks. See you there!
  3. Could it be that they've found local ore deposits and decided to mass produce nails there to send back to Rome or _wherever_ ?
  4. Nice job on the axe! Did you make the drift too? Is that weld line visible on both sides? It looks more like an asymetric wrap weld rather than a bit weld.
  5. Here's the description of the hammer from their site: "Polished striking face and ends of pein are generously beveled to minimize chipping. Rust resistant blue finish on smooth ground sides. Flame treated hickory handle, "Sure-Lock®" wedged in tapered eye."
  6. The jaws can each have multiple holes punched or drilled into them and the pins can be rearranged to suit tie size and shape of the stock. I feel like these types of tongs have little practical utility. Bolt head tongs take care of clearing for the hinge. If the stock is so long that you need to hold it closer to it's center for stability, then you can simply use your hand. If the stock is too long and too hot to hold in hand, then you'll be burning your tong hand anyway with these tongs, unless the offset also positions the end of the stock away from the reins.
  7. I recommend you clean up the rough edges with a grinder and make it into a bottom fuller. While a hot cut hardy may be more useful, I feel they are easier to make as a lone blacksmith. Making a fuller hardy requires a handled top swage tool and a striker (I've only seen one method of making one, there is probably a way to make one alone). You can use the fuller to make your first hot cut hardy tool, by putting your piece on top of the hardy with the stem of the hot cut piece in-line with the length of the fuller and hitting it with a cross pein hammer oriented the same way. Just look at some examples of bottom fullers and decide on what radius you can achieve with minimal material loss. Does the tool have a maker's mark by any chance?
  8. Yuriy

    Forge hearth pan

    This is a 24" x 28" forge pan made from 1/4" A36 plate. Four leg mounts were welded to the bottom. These are made from 4 inches of 1.5" perforated square tube. The legs consist of 4 pieces of 1.25" square tubing (not perforated), these insert into the leg mounts.