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pjh66

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Posts posted by pjh66

  1. Looking good

    I found it easier to fabricate the hardie hole then weld it into the anvil. You can get a much neater fit.

    I would suggest hard faceing if you have access to the equipment. A couple of layers would be good.

    If you want to round up the horn more multiple small bevels and a 9" grinder with a new disc laid flat works good.

    Putting an upset block on your near side is a big help for you also.

     

    Keep us posted as to how you go with it.

  2. Find some classes to do or someone who can teach you before buying any. Stick welders are versatile, rods are  mild steel, low hydrogen, cast, stainless, hardfaceing, tool steel.

    Another thing to consider when buying is the power source needed to run the machine.

    Don't discount the cheap import stick welders either. I have a cheap $90 130amp stick welder that I got about 6 years ago with 3 yr warranty. plugs into a standard household power point. Small & light weight. You can buy bigger  & better later. Stick welders can be used in the wind on rusty material even painted, just scrap enough paint off to start an arc & watch out for the fumes.

    The other thing to consider would be a tig welder which most can be used as a stick welder also. AC / DC tigs are better then a straight DC tig as you need AC for aluminium welding.

    I think 1st is some classes then think about what type of work you will be doing with it.

  3. I took my PELS to the car wash today and spent several dollars washing the YEARS of grime off of it. I could have taken off more of the belt/wheel guards beforehand but at least I got a lot of crap off of it. I bet it lost 10 Lbs of dirt.
    Then I used a squirt oiler on it and the gear driven vices are SO much easier to work. I also oiled as many of the sliding surfaces as I could see since it will probably be sitting outside all winter, tho it will be covered with a tarp. I'm going to develop plans for it while it's cold and do the final move in the spring.
    I'd like to put it in my garage but that'll be a chore.  I can lift it (20 ton bottle jack) and put it on rods/pipes to move it. I have the room but still....
    I might just build a pad next to the garage and set it semi-permanently on it and then build a "chicken coop" around it.
    BUT the big thing is getting it off my trailer.
    There are a couple of odd shafts plus an odd boss (in image 4 and again in image 5, lower left) that looks like it is supposed to hold some type of shaft but I can't figure it out, so I need to talk with someone who is familiar with this machine.
     

    Just a wild guess on the boss from the pic it could be for a shaft to hold a length stop in. Maybe. Never had anything to do with one of these. just a thought.

  4. I would recommend at least a set of UN thread gauges, a set of vernier calliper and some sort of thread reference book. You made need to get a set of metric gauges also. The larger range of thread pitch it covers the better. UN gauge can be used on whitworth. The difference is UN has a 60deg angle thread & whitworth is 55deg. Both are measured how many threads per inch. Metric is also 60deg but is measured millimetres per thread.

    If you can take the bolt out probably easier just to take it to your local fastener supplier & ask them for a nut to fit the bolt.

     

    As HWooldridge said a machinery hand book is great to have for all metal workers and there is a heap of information in it.

  5. Welcome to blacksmithing.
    You have come to the right place to find information.
    ABAQLD http://www.blacksmiths-australia.com/index_files/Page448.htm is about getting everyone that is interested in hitting hot metal a go.
    Check it out , talk to mike, come & have some fun.
    Any worries let me know.

  6. Gday everyone. My heart goes out to any that got hit with this flood. We were lucy my shed had about 4 foot of water through it so got to dry & clean everything in it (20' x 40' shed). Oil & mud through it. Welder, grinders, motors, blacsmith tools, machineing tools, ect all the things we have in a shed. But as I said we were lucky if it got another 10" higher it would have come through our house. My parents are at Forrest Hill in the Lockyer Valley & I have spent the last couple of day there cleaning mud out of thier house but still they are lucky too they got air lifted out on Teusday before it hit the house and it seems that they have only lost some cupboards, books, floor coverings. And a lot of sleep lol as we have. I saw a shot of where a brick house was & only the concret slab is now left. They said on the news Just before that they found a body 80Km down stream from where they went missing. Thinking of any caught up in this mess all the best.

  7. Just posting for comments my new & only air hammer that I made.

    It has a 300mm high opening / stroke. Im not sure on the strikes/min.
    The hammer / slide head is 18Kg(39Lb)

    I still have to finish cleaning it up & wack some paint on it. I will post a couple more pics when I have.
    Will have to try to take a video of it working.

    post-4893-014695500 1280443746_thumb.jpgpost-4893-082769400 1280443754_thumb.jpgpost-4893-091399800 1280443763_thumb.jpg

    Would like to hear your opinions.

  8. Just posting my new anvil that I have made.
    I was after a smaller anvil that is easy to move about & transport as the first anvil I made is 100Kg (220Lb) it is to hard to transport easily.
    Total Wieght is 50Kg / 110Lb
    I oxy/lpg cut the top from 100mm thick Bisaloy 80 Plate Then trimed Horn shape & heel.
    I then bevaled the horn & ground to shape with 9" angle grinder Finished with file.
    The hardie hole I drilled 4 smal holes through inside the courner area.
    Then drilled through with 1" drill
    I then chiseld out sides & die ground with carbide bur close to size.
    Drifted through with 1"sq tool steel tool bit.
    The wasit is 2 pieces of 1.25" thick plate cut to shape preped & welded then welded to underside of top of anvil & welded to base plate.
    I heated the top & top of horn with oxy heating head until surface a dull red starting to show (about 1/2 hr to get to this)
    Then quenched with water & compressed air ( cool quicker when compressed air is used to blast water on)
    A 3/8 dia bearing droped from 12" will bounce up about 9" a file will still cut but not well.

    Let me know what you all think.

    post-4893-094506900 1280137766_thumb.jpg post-4893-049039600 1280137798_thumb.jpg post-4893-005525600 1280137829_thumb.jpg

  9. Ed - the total wieght of it is 750g (26oz)
    Balance point is about 70mm in front of the handle.
    You dont need a lot of effot to swing it arcs nice with little effot.

    Bigfootnampa - as you have said with the blade soft enough to work in the field can help. Where we were there was a lot of rock & the blade on the other guys machete ended up with a lot of nicks & dings from them.
    I am hopeing with the harden & temper I have will let me to be able to fix these problems in the field. If it was much harder I would be concered with breakage.

    I enjoy all of your comments guys, & dont get me wrong, I am not disageeing with you only further explaining my reasoning for what I have done.

  10. Thank you guys for the comments. I love constructive comments on any of my work.
    The temper I did was so I could resharpen in the field with a file or stone.
    As I was not sure on what the material was I did a small sample piece to test.
    At 210C temper a file only scated on it so had to go a bit more. Now it is at the point where a file will cut but not by much.
    Bigfootnampa- as you would have seen I have a hole for a lanyard at the but of the handle "but" I love you idea of the lanyard near the blade. I will work out how to set 1 up on there.
    Dave Budd- I have used billhooks before in clearing & it is partly what influanced my design. (I am sure there are others out there like this Im not that clever lol)
    Again thank you all for your comments.

  11. A couple of weekends ago I went on a hiking camp.
    It was through thick scrub with a lot of lantana (couldn’t crawl through it).
    We had to cut our way through it for about 5 Km... Luckily someone had a machete with them.
    So this is my design that I came up with from use of farm items for clearing & that weekend.

    This is forged down from a piece of leaf spring (don’t know what from) that was 60mm wide x 8mm thick. Set down tang 25mmx 8mmx 125mm long.
    Finished blade is 350mm long. 45mm wide at the handle x 7mm thick tapered down to 5mm thick about 100mm from the handle.
    Blade stays 5mm thick from there. Widest part of the blade is 60mm.
    I normalised it in the forge several times through the process and once before hardening.
    Heated to non magnetic & oil hardened. Tempered twice to about 350C & allowed to air cool.
    Fuller groves were because I just felt like doing them.
    Lanyard hole is fitted with 3/8 Hyd feed line tube flared both sides.

    Edge near the handle is hollow ground changing to a flat grind further forward.
    I have left the finish rather rough because it is for rough work.

    Feel free to tell me what you think of the style & my process this is my first large forged blade (only done 1 small blade knife before & a small camp axe (hawk))

    post-4893-044608100 1279080488_thumb.jpg

    post-4893-076311100 1279080496_thumb.jpg

  12. I do agree that people need to think about safety for them selves.
    I believe in being "very" aware of your suroundings & what is happening in them.
    PPEs are a must in or chosen work/hobby.
    I do metal work full time & blacksmith for a hobby. I build items for earthmoving equipment.
    Aprons can be usful BUT I would not recommenduseing a apron when on a lathe. It can easaliy get caught in the lead screws.
    Gloves are the same problem as they can get caught in machinery.
    People need to learn what can happen & use items as needed.
    1 of the leasted used items I see is hearing protection (me included).
    I have seen people talking about UV protection glasses but if you check with high temps as in forge welding it is infarred that does the eye damage not the UV & most safety glasses that I know of don't protect against infared.
    I avoid glove as they can get caugt & the other problem which I have seen happen is hot metal going down in them which you cant get out quickly.
    There is not enough time to post all of the imformation here about safety in our field but the most important thing that I can think of is to use your "brain".
    Think about what might happen.
    Make sure of your suroundings.
    Be prepared if something does go wrong.

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