Iceman_713

Thanks ill look through that

Asked friemd he didnt know and he had looked all around the pallet the refractory came on for a data sheet and didnt find one

Friend of mine gave me two bags of refractory cement, no info on them about mixing etc help a youngbuck out gentlemen.

ill give those methods a look, which would be better for insulating it, kaowoll or a nice refractory cement wall? I will be using fire brick for the floor so it will be durable.

thanks guys, im pretty sure this one is galvi so ill have to use the vinegar method. it snot a terribly huge mailbox compared to the one I just put up lol but I think it will do alright after I figure out how to attach the burner..

so Im looking at building a gas forge and was looking for a housing, well as luck would have it I have recently replaced My mailbox and I am wondering, is it possible with the right insulation(either kaolwool or refractory cement) to use the mailbox as the forge body? has anyone attempted it before? I see the paint can and soup can forges so to me it seems that it is feasible ...any information is appreciated.

I actually like the way it transitions from the light to dark tones.

I saw these on ebay and was podering snagging one but wasn't sold on not being able to build one myself for roughly the same price, the forge comes from Lithuania if I remember right which would explain the European fittings and the Russian writing on the gauge. im interested in an update when you get the chance to burn it some.

Frosty you could always just buy one to have "on hand" for guests to use if they forget their razor

very cool, as far as I can tll these are not fiber cores just plain steel cable

could be 1/4" I suck at measuring by eyeball ok thanks, I would never consider heating rigging cables too much danger there

not using it to hold anything so im kosher with that. going to try My hand at making a cable pattern Damascus billet

first photo is how im starting out, second is all twisted and bundled up, this is going to be an interesting adventure since My forge is not the largest as far as the brake drum forges go but it gets the metal nice and hot. all of this will be worked by hand, I think im going to make another wrap on the leftover cable but ill try doing a French braid and see what kind of pattern that will yield.

so you struck up a deal with the Man to send you blocks of olive wood in exchange for currency righhttttt?

could always try your hand at making an electrolysis tank and derust it not a bad idea, might just do that

its only roughly 1/8 inch but it will tear your hands up with the burrs lol so also hoping that when I heat it it will singe those burrs down too

So Im starting a little experiment for making a billet of cable Damascus out of some atv winch cable and have a quick question. The cable has been well used and kept on the spool a good long while and after getting it off of the drum its keeps trying to twist up on itself and I was wondering if it would mess with the strength of the steel to use a couple of fencing nails and a 2x4 and stretching it straight then taking my oxy torch and heating the cable till it relaxes then letting it air cool?

bad xxxx all of them

enlighten us on playing with 52100

that piece isn't pretty nice it is friggin stunning, id be reluctant to actually use it as a knife!

thanks for the advice Ian, Trying to stay away from zinc materials but I know that is not always going to happen.

I live alone at the end of a road and theres no kids near by lest you count cats lol.

thanks for the information everyone I would mostly use it for light etching of "cable"Damascus billets.

what ratio do you think would be a good for diluting the acid? do you mix it with distilled water or regular tap water?

Thank you Thomas, I don't plan on doing anything with zinc based materials