Brian Thomas

The best advice I can give you is to not "psyche yourself out". From what I can tell from your post, that is exactly what you are doing. It is just like anything else...you start off eager and then don't know how to proceed because you see many alternatives. Take a step back and think things through. Creative genius comes naturally and it cannot be forced. Think of the problem not as a block but as a time of personal reflection.

40F is t-shirt weather up here brother! lol

You know, after all is said and done...maybe a lump of coal in the stocking wasn't such a bad idea... :mellow: As for me, probably just a pein hammer set. Love Christmas but don't care much for gifts.

As the old saying goes; "Where there's a will, there's a way." He's a very brave soul indeed...but I guess after a while you pretty much lose feeling everywhere. It drops to -50 F up in these parts during extreme weather patterns but the only time you'll find me outside when its that cold is when I'm doing the penguin waddle to the car. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6i6-5_tVgfA

You should tell your sister she did a fine job lacing that crust! It's either she's been baking from scratch for a while or has a natural talent in braiding dough. My second love to blacksmithing is found in the kitchen and in all of the years I've been making food stuffs have never been able to get the end result so tight. Big hands and fingers have their own pitfalls sometimes. <_< Shepherd's pie is a great tummy filler on cold nights. Happy Thanksgiving! As far as the knife goes, yeah...nothing bad to say about it, brother. You did a fine job on the blade as your younger did on the sheath and loop. I'm sure your grandaddy will be wearing it as a sign of how proud he is of the both of you!

According to the Kohlswa website, the actual company was founded in 1584 but didn't see steel castings performed until 1886. Once more, the powder metallurgy and shell moulding foundry wasn't created until 1948 after mining engineer Gunnar Nordström took hold of the company's reins. So, by fair deduction one could assume the anvil in the OP to be at least 65 years old.

I think you would benefit greatly by following the link provided [HERE] and do a little research into the different methods other blacksmith's have used in past while constructing both charcoal and LP fueled forges. The answer to your question really depends on what you have access to and how much work you are willing to put into a project. Many people have managed to build both types for pennies on the dollar while others have paid $x,xxx amount in the purchase of commercial grade furnaces. Some have even capitalized on the third party market and have acquired expensive brand name forges for relatively cheap or trade. Smithing doesn't need to be complicated. It can be simple and both functional and cost effective. (Photo courtesy of Twins Oak Forge)

Thank you for all of your opinions regarding the anvil in the original post. I received an email back from the seller this morning and he himself doesn't really know much about it, but this is what he said when I asked him about the heel and history; The blacksmith that wanted to barter for the anvil originally is the owner of Ships Coy Forge in Lisbon, NH. Since I don't know entirely too much about IFI's restrictions on external links, I will just say that he does have a website and can be googled if anybody is interested in seeing his work.

Well, I do have several choices...but for the past month these are the only other ones that have come up on listings. Taking price and travel restrictions into consideration these two are quite a bit out of the way and cost a bit more. I can't drive so these options are only open to how far my wife is willing to take me in the truck. #1: Very Serviceable Peter Wright - 151# ; $385 ; 2.5 hours away #2: Questionable Hill Anvil - No Weight Indicated on Ad - $320

If it is indeed that old I wonder if the anvil is even workable? Most definitely need to do a rebound test when I go and see it in person early next year.

I have linked to this anvil via chat just recently and have received mixed input from several members. A few seem to think that despite its rugged appearance it is a good buy while others think I would be better off just to purchase an anvil with "more desirable characteristics". There is an argument whether or not this anvil is wrought iron or cast. I am currently in contact with the owner and waiting for a response as to what exactly he knows about this "oldie" and would very much like your opinion on the matter? What do you think for $275 ; $1.53/lb? The horn is definitely unique.

Thank you for your suggestions, notownkid. I have considered joining the NEB however I am much of a loner and prefer to devise and experiment on my own, or with a relatively close knit group of friends. The experience provided on YouTube, IFI and several other forum communities allow me to progress ideas at a faster rate than if I were to attend structured demonstrations with a select number of craftsmen/women. My reasoning is going to sound a little off the wall for the majority but this has always been the way I have learned to do EVERYTHING. Besides that, I too am not the easiest of individuals to be around...just ask my wife. ;)

While everything that was said preceding this post should be considered sound advice; this tidbit in particular is GOLDEN.

The initial forum search led me to a picture with no article, but with the help of your additional keywords, I was able to find the thread you were talking about. The only issue I seem to have with that blueprint is that the barrels are vertically high. Where possible, I would like to make use of the drum's depth rather than just the width for longer pieces when necessary. I'll see about trying to use some aspects of supercharger rig as the majority looks fairly promising, but will probably need to modify the original concept to retrofit the drum in a horizontal position. The exhaust escape can be fitted to the side rather than the top, which would also reduce ceiling clearance in the shop. I'm assuming a 1/3 portion cut into the side of the barrel to create an open "scoop" while leaving the remainder enclosed would virtually produce the same result while helping to direct CO2 from the mouth. After reinforcement is in place and the refractory is shaped...all I would need to do would be to adjust for draft. Not going to happen. :) My eyes were damaged through actions entirely resulting from my own stupidity. I was punished by numerous arc flashes when I was in school for welding and even though the opthamologist said I would recover nicely, I've come to the conclusion that she was wrong. During bright sunny days, I can't even step outside without wearing sunglasses unless I'm itching for a migraine. You're right though...the fix is a personal preference thing. The only thing that can be done to limit exposure would be to try several different shades. Goggles and a facemask are already on the list. ;)

Sword shaped objects (SSOs) can be made from pretty much anything, including wood. The only concern that I see the IFI members presenting is safety. If for some reason your intention is to actually utilize the blade and not have it for a decorative wall hanger, then most people would be very keen to know what type of steel was used and how it was properly hardened to maintain the edge and overall integrity of piece. The finished molecular structure of the steel/iron is of vital importance (basic chemistry). There would be nothing worse than to swing an untreated sword against an object and have it bend, break or shatter in your face or someone else's. All metal is what it is. However, when it becomes damaged...you will be provided with shrapnel as an end result.

Thanks, Glenn. The aforementioned incident involved one or two people off of the forum board and was ultimately taken with a grain of salt. The entire conversation involved another member asking a question about where he could obtain black pipe to use as a tuyere for a forge, so I gave him a price quote from an online store I regularly use. The member in question seemed appreciative, but the idea of online metal shopping didn't seem to sit well with present company...so the conversation eventually went south and I said no more. No worries! I have relatively thick skin so no harm done. What prompted me to write the preamble to the original post, however, was to simply differentiate between those persons who readily have access to loose and/or discarded material opposed to those who don't. As I stated originally, fab shops and other companies with scrap that isn't being sent off to recycling centers are virtually non-existent up in these parts. That coupled with a disability and a medically restricted license really puts a damper on what one can get a hold of outside of the online environment, you know? Anyway, what it all boils down to is being able to obtain workable material to use in the shop regardless of method of acquisition. I thought of this after watching a YouTube student clip of an NT blacksmithing project. Quite interesting really and it seemed to be a rather effective alternative to steel. The only problem with using this in production is the size and overall weight of the stone. Boulders are not very convenient! :) Yes you may and I will jump right on that opportunity! A side blast set up was probably the furthest thing from my mind after chatting with Mr. Lively about his design. More factors to consider as the options seem to be piling up right in front of me. [EDIT: I just looked up the 55 side blast forge and noticed that is an open design. Would it be possible to encapsulate the forge to at least 3/4 with a 1/4 lip to minimize heat loss? Or do hoods only provide direction for exhaust and have little to no effect on operating capacity?] Regarding eye protection; does anybody who has a similar sensitivity problem have any experience with obtaining appropriate focal wear suited for forging? If so, suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :) Thank you, again!

Ah thank you, Mr. Powers, for those wonderful tidbits of information! I completely bypassed the fact that the stackable set up would cause creosote buildup in the forge. Chimneys 101, right? Well in that case, you're right...maybe the double barrel style for the purpose I'm intending it isn't the most efficient or safe for that matter considering cleaning would require a breakdown. Separating the two would still allow for all adapter pieces to be used separate from the forge and casting furnace (less the door for the forge). Only the stand setup will need to be fabricated as the cast iron props provided in the kit will be sketchy when holding up against the weight of thick refractory. In regards to the treadle grinder, a mechanical gear and pulley system is all that is required to build an effective honing device. A ball bearing-based wheel rig would increase disk fluidity and allow for good work with minimal continuous force. All without the use of electricity. I have seen wheel looms, wood lathes and even sewing machines constructed in a similar fashion. If the principle is modified to suit the purpose, then by deduction one could assume the same would apply to this case as well. :) If I were attempting methods of smithing under a particular period then I could understand the neo-tribal comments. However, this isn't the case. I have every intention of "cheating with Ms. Current" when constructing the shop but the end result will provide efficient means to perform operations without the need of electrical power...even if the end result isn't commensurate with simple design. That is the goal of shop operations. To answer the second question, no I will not be doing this alone. I have three children, two of which are old enough to want to help and learn a few things. My three year old however (profile picture), has some time to catch up! :) Light! Yes, I have given this some thought as well and since I plan on using an enclosed carport design for the shop, several companies offer options to add "x amount of windows", "x amount of walk-in doors", and "x amount of garage doors" to the construction at additional cost. I just started to plan the building in its entirety yesterday so I will take into account of naturally filtered light. The sky light design you spoke of seems to be rather clever, so I shall see if something of the sort could be incorporated as well! Once again, thank you Thomas. You have given me new design ideas to work with! Cheers. :) (P.S. ...and maybe if I'm lucky, my wife will want to help as well. I know she is into pottery so maybe something could be done in regards to doubling up for a kiln!)

Thank you for your comments, Bruno!

That may be a wood stove to you, Steve, and you know by definition you're right!? However when I look at it, I envision a setup with a primary and secondary function that is not entirely too dissimilar to Mr. Lively's wash tub design. First, the fact that is isn't made out of an open steel tub allows it to take advantage of both circulating heat while regulating temperature flow through the flue and bellows. I mean, the picture itself only represents the adapter kit needed to convert two standard 55 gallon drums into a functioning wood stove and by no way shows mandatory placement of the kit on the barrel(s). But even if you decide to use the exact adapter configuration shown in the example picture, by process of elimination you could ascertain that charred wood is chief representative of natural charcoal, right? Therefore by any honest measure, you can infact use the wood stove to burn wood. Worried about heat damage to the shell? Add a reinforcement cage and be smart when using refractory. The mud can be contoured to help increase flow efficiency within the chambers if done properly. There is only one con that I can see...and that would be the weight of the total setup. Easy to overlook. :) I appreciate your comments. :) Let me say again that the pictures do not entirely represent the expected end result. These are more or less reference pictures that I have saved to dissect and ultimately mechanically modified for use in the shop. The treadle grinder will be scaled down and thrown onto a fabricated bicycle-type rig with a modified push pedal. I will not be using sandstone for obvious reasons, but will opt for a modern 12" metal grinding wheels that are capable of not disintegrating at high RPMs. #2: I just so happen to have a few hurricane lamps and gallons of oil sitting, collecting dust in basement. Besides, I have light sensitive eyes anyway. The darker I can keep the shop without posing any safety issues the better. Thank you for your response! Best Regards.

Afternoon, everybody... As the title suggests, I have registered here with the intention of re-starting the craft that was lost to me over fifteen years ago when a certain individual found it in his best interest to rob me blind of all the gear I had purchased and used within a two year period of time. As such, in the thirteen years I have spent after-the-fact, I have managed to come to realize that there are just those people out there who need your stuff more than you do. What else can you do but whine and complain, right? So to make a long story short, I have over 15 years of R&D experience but have severe limitations as far as actual shop experience is concerned. Does that make sense? Now I'm going to sound rather blunt on this next set so I sincerely hope that those who read this will take everything in good stride, try to understand the situation from MY perspective and refrain from jumping to conclusions. A.) I prefer to purchase steel/pipe from online stores. From my experience a few days ago, there are a couple of members on IFI that I know of (no names given) that frown on this concept to the point that when brought up in general civilized conversation they end up becoming belligerent and down right insulting. The real question to this argument is, who's money is paying for what now? To further elaborate; 1.) I live in the Great North Woods of New Hampshire, USA; a place that has pretty much died economically since I made my first move out to California in 1997. Virtually all business that transacts with this part of the state comes from Southern New Hampshire or Maine (Vermont if you need dairy, Canada if you need electricity). There is exactly one structural steel company in and around the town and that went bankrupt over eight years ago. No steel, no scraps. If it is wood you are looking for, then everybody can help you! Logging country. 2.) The junkyard (scrapyard) down the street is NOT open to the public as it is officially a recycling center that has contracts with various larger corporations out-of-state (I've tried). A six-pack of beer will not give you dibs on their dumpster. 3.) If you are a blacksmith in this part of the country (or want to start the trade), you would overall be better off to haul a gigantic granite stone out of the forest and beat on that than to get any sort of steel to fabricate your own anvil. It's been done, so why not? B.) I have a tendency to overthink situations and engineering concepts. Even though I have a piece of paper stating that I have satisfactorily completed a chemical engineering program, this does not make me an expert in all fields. That's why I am here. To receive advice and concepts from more experienced smiths. If you feel there is a better way to go about things (cheap and effective), then feel free to share them. Any constructive feedback is appreciated. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now that I have that mess out of the way, I would like to share some shop concepts with you in this process of rebuilding. Since the snow storms are sitting out on my front doorstep, construction of the shop as a whole won't be scheduled until the spring thaw. So this gives me time. Time, time, time. NOTE: The concept of this shop is to use as little electricity as humanly possible. When it becomes necessary and refinements are needed, a small gas generator will be purchased to power several machines as necessary. Once the refinements are completed, all electrical equipment will be given away or sold. (Reason: A modern blacksmith's shop powered by electricity and without the proper generator during an outage is $ put to little or no use. Wood is what I have and it's wood and man power I will use, per tradition.) THE FORGE (Charcoal) 1. (2X) 55GA. STEEL DRUMS W/CAST IRON DOUBLE BARREL ADAPTER The top barrel will be an enclosed version of Tim Lively's wash tub design, refractory lined, 1" drilled and threaded black pipe tuyere with an elevated medium bellows at the rear for airflow. The bottom barrel will be used for smelting and casting purposes. The rear adapter connecting the two barrels will allow for circulating heat to flow from the bottom to the top with use of the rear flue rig. Airflow will be provided by a larger bellows "on the floor". THE ANVIL I have an idea of what I need but I keep running over tack strips putting it all together. This anvil will be fabricated (block style) but what I am concerned about is cracking the weld when putting two unlike steels together under compression. The idea is a thick 6" base plate of A36 embedded into a sand/concrete stand with a 2" 4140 plate on top. I know something of the sort can be done, I just need a little more advice in this area. If I can reach a total steel weight of 160# or more for relatively cheap, then hurrah, I would have accomplished this goal. The stand itself will weigh approximately 266# alone and must NOT be inground. Total Anvil Dimensions: 8"x5"x10" TREADLE GRINDER (Design only; this treadle grinder doesn't belong to me.) Foot powered grinding capability, less the huge millstone propped between the arms. I will be going with a smaller wheel configuration given cost is a factor in assembly. A belt sander and lathe can be engineered using virtually the same setup here, so I will be using similar types to construct many shop devices. Anyway, small dose of what I have on my plate at the moment. If any of you have any insights or configurations to share, feel free. I'm open to everyone's ideas and am very keen to detail. Thank you for your time and patience! Cheers. :)