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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Elmarginalo

  1. Found this comment on imgur Comment: "Careful with the copper pins through a steel tang. I've seen blades fail due to galvanic corrosion causing problems." Source: http://imgur.com/gallery/hrCUR I found some explanations on IFI since I had no clue what it was, but was wondering if anyone has any RL experience with this? What can be done to prevent this? pins in same material as the forged blade? wooden pins for the handle (+ epoxy offcourse) ? Any other ideas?
  2. ​Same here, I like what you did there, looks like a modern version of the "blacksmiths blade". Very, very nice job!!! btw, out of interest: did you do this in a coal forge or a gas forge?
  3. I'll post some more pictures when I get further ;-) Sorry for the stupid questions but why is O1 no good for larger knives? Is it cause of the very high carbon content? I figured if I temper it back enough & temper the spine, it would be ok. Any steels you would recommend?
  4. Thanks a lot for all the ideas and tips guys! Managed to get it nice and straight, now I need to clean up a little more and grind in the bevels Steel is O1 btw.
  5. Hi guys, I'm attempting to make my first larger knife (chopping knife for in my garden) in the forge. I'm having a bit of trouble getting this straight: - What we learn at forging school to straighten something is to check it when it's cold. We look at the axis and give it a tap here and there cold to get the axis nice and straight. now mind you this is on plain iron, not on steel. Are you allowed to hit it cold or will I introduce micro cracks in it? - If I try and straighten it out hot, it's not really going that well either. I have a bend in 1 direction, tap it and I introduce another warp... sometimes a bit better, sometimes it's even worse then before.. So how do you guys straighten it? temperature lower perhaps? like darker shade of red to straighten it instead of bright red/yellow? Any other tips? THanks in advance!!!
  6. Hey Thomas, drill press => that's the term I was looking for :D thanks! Got that book, but I can still read it a few times: so much info on so little pages. I put the slabs on with epoxy, but I can see that at some places there's at some spots a 'paper-thin' space left between the slabs and the steel. I guess I didn't spread the epoxy evenly or so? Any ideas how to fix this? whipe some epoxy over it then sand the excess off again? superglue maybe? for some reason my second picture didn't work so here's another try:
  7. Thanks, I didn't realize it was possible to get the grain size too small. Will take that into account in the future!
  8. Thought I would post some pictures of the first knife I made. It's a forged Knife, forged from O1 steel, normalized it 5 times (thought the more the better right?), then quenched it in vegetabel oil. 2 1hour tempering cycles @ arond 220°C Handle is micarta. My goal was to make an all round knife that can also be used in the kitchen, hence the longer chef like blade. Not too happy with the result: Some file marks are left that were too deep and couldn't sand them out. The holes in the handle weren't straight as they were drilled by hand, not by column drill (not sure if this is the correct term in english, I mean the drill that is stuck at 90° angle). If you pay attention you can see the copper tubes aren't 'straight'. Here and there some small 'spaces' between the handle and the knife. Any ideas what I can use to fill them? my main concern is water getting in. Critique and advise always welcome ;-)
  9. Hi guys Well my smoke extractor died on my last week. At first I was thinking about getting a new one, but it's ridiculously expensive! Why are smoke extractors so expensive anyway? I was looking at the hofi chimney blueprints someone posted in my previous topic: Does this kind of chimney work with round tubing too? Would be easier as it's already available and I basicly just need to install it, no welding etc.
  10. I'll second that. Lifetime guarantee on any defects, so he'll be sure to pass it on to his kids: http://www.autinetools.com/en/warranty
  11. Would something like this be OK? http://www.toolgurus.co.uk/1006405-millennia-ir-3-shade-welding-protective-spectacle/ Or this maybe: http://www.nothingbutsafetyglasses.com/products/welding-glasses/bolle-tracker-wpcc3
  12. That's what I was thinking too gergerly. Either way, I've left the door open a bit last week and it seemed way better, so for now I think I'm just gonna make sure I have enough IN airflow for now with a small vent (so I can close the door and the neighbours don't complain about the noise) Thanks for all the advise guys!
  13. But the smoke extractor exit is only 12cm, would fitting a larger pipe behind the extractor help at all since it needs to pass the 12cm?
  14. Yes, I've also been thinking about just getting rid of that hood and put up a side draft chimney. Could you link me some info? As in, how close does it have to be to the fire? Does it have to go straight up or is it allowed to travel a bit horizontally before going vertically? I would prefer not to go straight through the roof but rather through the back wall you can see in the picture at post 1, then straight up. Just a matter of amount of work... don't feel like waterproofing the roof again... Chimney is about 12 cm I think, same diameter as the smoke extractor exit.
  15. Hey Gergerly, Thanks for the tip! I'll definitly try to add some input airflow! Haven't tried that yet. I don't really drink enough either :p you know how it goes... I forget the water bottle, then I'm too busy to be bothered with drinking... Maybe the problem is just dehydration... But It doesn't feel like the dehydration type of headache to me... Maybe I formulated my question about the fan a bit odd... what I mean is: I don't see how it fits into the chimney? the one I have now has an in and an out and a little thing to catch ashes, so It just fits between my hood and the chimney, but I don't see how this new one works, it doesn't fit in between 2 chimney pipes like the old one does in my eyes, or am I missing something? BTW: I emailed the guy selling the whole smithy, but he doesn't sell gear seperatly and I don't have that kind of budget atm :(
  16. First of all, sorry for the poor english, I'm not familliar with all the correct words (yet ;-) ) Proud to have my smithy in my shed! But it's in a 'closed' environment. (See picture) I have a hood and a smoke extractor that is not v powerful. Anyway: I've been smithing in there for a while now, and I get the feeling the draft is not strong enough: No smoke in my shed, but I tend to get a dry throat and sometimes a slight headache after a few hours of forging. I was thinking maybe it's from the gasses released from the coals? So I'm thinking about getting a more powerful engine for the suction system. I found this one on the internet from a guy that lives closeby: http://www.2dehands.be/bouw/gereedschap-machines/aambeeld/rookafzuiging-uit-smederij-199306558.html He says it was used as a powerful smoke exhaust system in an old smithy. But I have a hard time imaging how a fan like that is used for a smoke extraction... Looks like a blower to me... Anyone have any clue how that smoke extraction system the guy is selling should work? Anyone have any other ideas to solve my problem?
  17. Man, that looks awesome! Is the course in London and do you take crazy Belgians? If so, where can I find some extra info on dates, price etc? I'm tempted to take a week of holiday to come take that course with you.
  18. After some googling I came out on this vid: I love the idea, going to give it a try as soon as I get my hands on an iron pipe.
  19. Once again thanks for all the input guys! Like Rich says: I don't have any equipment to read temperatures etc, so I use a magnet. I tried normalizing this weekend trying to relieve stresses. I know now what color the critical point is at by testing it with my magnet. I'm using a coal forge, these were the main problems I encountered: - First problem I had was overheating, parts were getting too hot, so basicly what I did was let the coals die out a little then heat the blade slowly. Took me a lot of time to heat it nice and even and don't let it overheat. Any tips for this? or is this the way you all do it? - The main problem I encountered was getting an even heat:Is there anyone here who is doing his heat treating in a coal forge? I can't seem to get an even heat all over the blade: either the blade itself is heating or the handle, but I can't seem to get them both hot at the same time... any tricks for this? I tried making my fire bigger, and then it got better but I can't seem to get it big enough to heat the blade and the handle. I was wondering if I only quench the blade if it's ok to normalize the blade only, but I guess I can answer this one myself: there's a stress difference between the blade and the handle that will cause problems, am I correct?
  20. Thanks for the tips & input, I'll give it a try tomorrow evening :-)
  21. I got my hands on some O1 tool steel, and I was planning to try forging a knife out of it. Now I've been browsing the forum for a while, and have read the stickies etc about heat treatment. I'm still wondering about a few things: - Forging takes place in bright red to yellow heat, which is above the critical point (non magnetic) as I understand (since critical point is a deep red). Does this mean grain size grows while forging? How bad is this? - Can grain size be reduced by annealing or normalizing? As I understand it, you heat up the steel to critical temp and then let it cool slowly in forge/sand/ashes/... or in the air. I've read in some sources this is hard to do for O1 steel. I've read some sources that say it can air harden while normalizing, or that the grains can still grow while annealing. Anyone with any hands on experience with O1 got any tips for this? I've read a lot of different explanations for this, so this has me quite confused... - Is thermal cycling basicly normalizing multiple times?
  22. After some emailing with oezwerk, turns out the bolts are not included... They reply quickly thought and are very friendly. Does it matter what bolts I use? Can I use some random steel bolts that fit?
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