Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Brussels, Belgium


  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

2,016 profile views
  1. Found this comment on imgur Comment: "Careful with the copper pins through a steel tang. I've seen blades fail due to galvanic corrosion causing problems." Source: http://imgur.com/gallery/hrCUR I found some explanations on IFI since I had no clue what it was, but was wondering if anyone has any RL experience with this? What can be done to prevent this? pins in same material as the forged blade? wooden pins for the handle (+ epoxy offcourse) ? Any other ideas?
  2. ​Same here, I like what you did there, looks like a modern version of the "blacksmiths blade". Very, very nice job!!! btw, out of interest: did you do this in a coal forge or a gas forge?
  3. I'll post some more pictures when I get further ;-) Sorry for the stupid questions but why is O1 no good for larger knives? Is it cause of the very high carbon content? I figured if I temper it back enough & temper the spine, it would be ok. Any steels you would recommend?
  4. Thanks a lot for all the ideas and tips guys! Managed to get it nice and straight, now I need to clean up a little more and grind in the bevels Steel is O1 btw.
  5. Hi guys, I'm attempting to make my first larger knife (chopping knife for in my garden) in the forge. I'm having a bit of trouble getting this straight: - What we learn at forging school to straighten something is to check it when it's cold. We look at the axis and give it a tap here and there cold to get the axis nice and straight. now mind you this is on plain iron, not on steel. Are you allowed to hit it cold or will I introduce micro cracks in it? - If I try and straighten it out hot, it's not really going that well either. I have a bend in 1 direction, tap it and I introduce another warp... sometimes a bit better, sometimes it's even worse then before.. So how do you guys straighten it? temperature lower perhaps? like darker shade of red to straighten it instead of bright red/yellow? Any other tips? THanks in advance!!!
  6. Hey Thomas, drill press => that's the term I was looking for :D thanks! Got that book, but I can still read it a few times: so much info on so little pages. I put the slabs on with epoxy, but I can see that at some places there's at some spots a 'paper-thin' space left between the slabs and the steel. I guess I didn't spread the epoxy evenly or so? Any ideas how to fix this? whipe some epoxy over it then sand the excess off again? superglue maybe? for some reason my second picture didn't work so here's another try:
  7. Thanks, I didn't realize it was possible to get the grain size too small. Will take that into account in the future!
  8. Thought I would post some pictures of the first knife I made. It's a forged Knife, forged from O1 steel, normalized it 5 times (thought the more the better right?), then quenched it in vegetabel oil. 2 1hour tempering cycles @ arond 220°C Handle is micarta. My goal was to make an all round knife that can also be used in the kitchen, hence the longer chef like blade. Not too happy with the result: Some file marks are left that were too deep and couldn't sand them out. The holes in the handle weren't straight as they were drilled by hand, not by column drill (not sure if this is the correct term in english, I mean the drill that is stuck at 90° angle). If you pay attention you can see the copper tubes aren't 'straight'. Here and there some small 'spaces' between the handle and the knife. Any ideas what I can use to fill them? my main concern is water getting in. Critique and advise always welcome ;-)
  9. Hi guys Well my smoke extractor died on my last week. At first I was thinking about getting a new one, but it's ridiculously expensive! Why are smoke extractors so expensive anyway? I was looking at the hofi chimney blueprints someone posted in my previous topic: Does this kind of chimney work with round tubing too? Would be easier as it's already available and I basicly just need to install it, no welding etc.
  10. I'll second that. Lifetime guarantee on any defects, so he'll be sure to pass it on to his kids: http://www.autinetools.com/en/warranty
  11. Would something like this be OK? http://www.toolgurus.co.uk/1006405-millennia-ir-3-shade-welding-protective-spectacle/ Or this maybe: http://www.nothingbutsafetyglasses.com/products/welding-glasses/bolle-tracker-wpcc3
  12. That's what I was thinking too gergerly. Either way, I've left the door open a bit last week and it seemed way better, so for now I think I'm just gonna make sure I have enough IN airflow for now with a small vent (so I can close the door and the neighbours don't complain about the noise) Thanks for all the advise guys!
  13. But the smoke extractor exit is only 12cm, would fitting a larger pipe behind the extractor help at all since it needs to pass the 12cm?
  • Create New...