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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by norrin_radd

  1. All good video clips. I really like seeing all the behind-the-scenes stuff. Like was mentioned before my thoughts were do people really use that many shovels? But i guess so. If that was in Russia I bet they have all the ak47 tooling in storage somewhere on site.
  2. update: The nut wouldn't come off but it had about 1/16" of vertical play in it. Didn't affect the use of it at all, once you hit it would seat down nicely. So in my infinite wisdom I tried to "fix" it. And i screwed it up. I got it back to being usable but I want to make another one. Black oxide nuts are ok to forge correct? I should have just left it alone....
  3. In this video (may be the one Dan P. was referring to) there you can see a striker in the background, is that "wind milling" ?
  4. If push comes to shove and you have a pritchell hole in your anvil, you could try making a workable hardie cutter with a tire iron. If they are cheap and available where you live, they should be something harder than mild steel. You may even be able to use it in a properly sized hole in work bench or vise for example. I know it may sound lame but I've made 2 and they work ok. Good luck and stick with it.
  5. I've heard of it called "convex steel bar" too but I could only find that at UK sites, that may be a regional name.
  6. Thanks. I didn't really notice it spnning or anything. I didnt notice any wobble either. It sits pretty flat on that flanged nut.
  7. Thanks. I hadn't either. But it works pretty good. I guess you could use it in any 1/2" hole that is mounted to something solid too.
  8. Been thinking about making a hardie hot cut for the pritchell ever since I saw Gary Huston's video about making one for a hole in a rr track anvil. Here is what i came out like, not too bad. I did a vid about it. I still haven't strapped my anvil down yet but doesn't move that much with downward strikes. It is actually recessed in the stump about an inch. Anyway it came out OK not really like I intended. Here's the video that got me thinking about it.
  9. I know you're asking about the 2x72 and I'm sure that some one here has a good answer for ya. But I was in a similar situation and I settled on a Craftsman 2x48. http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-21513-1-3-hp-electric-belt-disc-sander-21513/p-00921513000P?prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5 There are some variety of belts out there for it, and its very easily and cheaply modded. It may not be anything that will work for you but I thought I'd just mention it, and they might ship it to ya or to a store close by. I'm actually thinking about adding an 8" wheel to mine or just converting it to
  10. Wow man that is just outstanding. Thanks for posting the write up on it too.
  11. That is a nice piece of yard art. Depending on the paint job, it will probably make more than a few people do a double take.
  12. ​+1 on that. That is excellent, would be fun to build a shop around it
  13. ​I was just experimenting but I guess I used the small side by accident because I did not know that it was a self locking taper. I know when I started using it I had to taper the stock for it to go through, maybe that helped it. I did have issues getting good angled strikes because of the shoulder of the rod, that's why the end cap came out like a flat button instead of a shallow point like I wanted. And it was a b***ch to hold, everything about that mace was a b***ch actually, but I learned a lot. I had intentions of turning that section of rod into a spring swage, hopefully it will work. I'
  14. Morning ! Yeah, I have a few of the joints with the holes too. I actually used one to make the end cap for my mace. Don't really have a good picture of it though. The hole in the one that I have starts out about 1" and tapers a little, cant remember the dimension. Worked like a giant nail header for some upset 3/4 stock. I'm thinking about making a spring swage out of it now.
  15. Thanks, that's what I was looking for. I want to try some twisted bar handled punches soon.
  16. I had some steering tie rods given to me, about 1" + diameter, and was wondering if that type of steel would be ok for punches, chisels, slitters etc..? I found one post about tie rods but it didn't really answer my question. I know nothing about steering mechanisms but some of them are thicker than others and they don't appear to be broken. Thanks for any advice.
  17. ​Thanks, I like to get outside too. I do like to draw though. Especially if I'm gonna try to make something..
  18. ​Yes I do. I'm not that good with Sketchup either, but it is a good program, its challenging. I tried some CG video with it, posted it in my mace post. I'm an AutoCAD dude to the core. I didn't do much CAD drawing for my shop though, a few pencil sketches on scraps is about it. Like I said most of the shop was done out there just looking at what I had to work with at the time, I got lucky and it has worked so far. I've been thinking about these hinges for a long time, now I need to focus on the doors before I get out there and get into it. Just got to take my time I guess. Thanks for the inp
  19. ​Thanks, yeah I have some testing in mind for it. I have to get around to trying to heat treat the tips at least and maybe the edges first. Gonna try the "letting the colors run" approach for each flange I think, unless some one has a better idea. I tried to anneal the flanges before I cut them and everything around the brazing should have been by the time I got done so I don't think they are brittle. We hit a cantaloupe with it, the flanges channeled the "guts" right at me, pretty funny. I'm thinking about making another one already. This was my first attempt at a quasi CG video using Sketch
  20. Frosty, thanks for the positive critique of the video. I'm not a wizard or anything but the videos are pretty fun to fool around with, just learning that too. Frosty, Jeremy and Jim, thanks for all the info and advice. I really appreciate the pointers and it gives me a lot to figure on but I think I get what ya'll are saying. Jim, you are right I need to do some more drawing on these doors. Everything on this shop has been done on the fly in the field. I have this vision in my head, but I think I need to get some lines on "paper" for these. thanks guys, guess there may be a "Shop Doors Part 1
  21. I've started to work on hinges for my shop doors. I want to make them to where I can use the same 5V tin that the walls are made of and they will over lap just like if there wasn't a door there. Not to hide them but so they will seal better. I came up with this design and am trying to make them: Started working on the barrels. Not sure how well they will work out but I'm giving it a shot. I am recording the process too. After watching the video I realize I would have been better on the other side of the anvil. I still have a lot to learn but I'm having fun anyway. Hopefully I'll get them
  22. ​But if you really think about it "hitty and grabby things" really work more like "thingamajig's" so lets go with "hitty and grabby thingamajig's" or thing'ys I prefer to just point at something I want and grunt.... This is a pretty interesting/comical thread.
  23. Thanks and you're right. I was wearing a glove so it didnt dawn on me just then. I think I might forge a loop on that end too. It was pretty fun to make, took longer than I thought it would.
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