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SmithingEverything

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Everything posted by SmithingEverything

  1. I have learned some from this post already. I am new to the craft and like new tools. The more I read all the post the more I learn, I still have my opinions and you all have yours. Reading these post and thinking about it, I may be more open to some used tools. If I have the ability to buy new, I probably still will, but I will remember that used may not be as bad as option as I may think.
  2. One way I see it, if you buy crappy tools, you will have crappy experiences and won't enjoy it and will lose interest. If you spend more on something you are less likely to walk away from it because you don't want to of wasted that money.
  3. I prefer my tools new, so with that comes "perfect" edges. I then can shape them to however I would like and what suites me best. I don't want to buy someone's problems if there are any with the tool. Why buy something a little cheaper that is beat up if you have the ability to spend a little more something new? If you buy something that is used that requires some repairs, well that money on repairs could of went towards new. People have different preferences, and like different things.
  4. I do not have a true anvil yet but If it were me, I would still pass. I don't like the beat up edges and it is a farrier's anvil so is shaped differently for making horseshoes.
  5. I am looking at the book and dvd call A primer in Blacksmithing by Randy McDaniel. The book is $17.83 and the 6 hour dvd set is $139.95. Anyone used these, are they worth it? Should I get both or just the book or just the dvd? Or there is the Artist Blacksmithing: Techniques in action dvd from Peter Parkinson that is $34.78
  6. Yeah I know one forge can't do it all, I was just trying to find the best option to suite my needs at this point in time.
  7. First of all I am not sure where to post this. I looked at the forge threads but couldn't find the proper place to put it since I will be discussing solid fuel forges and propane forges. If any one knows a better place feel free to move it. I am trying to figure out what type of forge would work best and efficiently for the type of work I plan on getting into. This is not my work just ideas that I like. Some of you may have seen a similar post of mine concerning anvils. I am looking at rebuilding my charcoal forge and be suited to burn coal or build a propane forge. The size of the work is what I am not sure what would be best. Would it require a large propane forge to be able to fit the curves and bends that make the piece wider? If the piece is long it would not be as much of a problem since I could build to make it pass through the back of the forge. Would I need a forge that is 12 inches wide or more and how long? 18 inches or 24 inches long? 2 burner? Also I wonder what the fuel consumption would be on something like that. If I build a better coal forge I make it so i could pass pieces through to the part i need. Another dilemma is getting fuel. For coal I would have to order it and cheapest I found is 13 dollars + 14 dollars shipping = 27 dollars for 50 lbs. Or drive 4.5 hours or so for 12 dollars per 50lb bag + cost of gas. Making the trip about 9.5 hours or more. Propane I can get a refill for about 15 dollars a 20lb bottle 10 minutes away. One thing I am not sure of is (estimate) how long would 1 50lb bag of coal last vs. 1 20lb bottle of propane? That depends too on how many burners I have and psi and insulation for the propane forge. Coal would be how much coal do I have in the fire to do the job and how long and how much air is blowing in it burning it up faster. I know this is hard to calculate and all the variables, but if anyone has any tips, suggestions or pointers, please share them! The pictures are just some ideas I like, I would be making smaller things and maybe try other decorative items. Try some smaller gates and similar projects. I have a lot of learning to do though before I can do a project.
  8. I don't have anything at this moment. Just some land with spots to build something, something small, something cheap.
  9. It is hot, humid, sticky and mosquito metropolis . I live near Bryan/College Station, Texas. 25 miles east of Texas A&M if you know where that is.
  10. I live in Texas and thinking about building a blacksmithing shop. I wouldn't be able to do electricity at this time. In the summer time it gets over 100 degrees outside. What are some solutions (besides only smithing in the fall and winter). I was thinking like a dogtrot method or something. Something like the old days. Maybe old day methods with added solar panel fans? Not sure how much solar panels are that would run a small/medium fan though. I also see that dug into the ground is a option also.
  11. From what I read on other forums that is what others do. Remove the valve, fill with water ( soap and water if you want to get rid of smell). You can let it sit for a bit. You are the only one liable for you actions so do what you feel and know is safe. People of been injured doing it before. I am not telling you "yeah go do it, it will be fine", I am just saying how people have done it before. Here are some other people talking about this topic on other sites. http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=47602 and also on this one http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/showthread.php?7059-Cutting-Open-Old-Propane-Tanks&highlight=cutting+propane+tank.
  12. I would over the valve all they way like you would be turning the bottle on to use. Open the valve all the way and make sure you get out any pressure in it. Once you do that then unscrew the nozzle off the tank then fill it with water. I have not ever done it myself though so I wouldn't take my advice haha. I think the method would make sense though, but you might want to get more opinions.
  13. I did not know this. Thank you. It would of been nice to have one of his anvils.
  14. Anyone familiar with the Blu anvil from Big Blu hammer? Sounds good and I like the shape. Can't find any many reviews. 260lbs, Double horn, Cast Steel, 54HRC, 1 inch Hardy, 5/8 and 1 inch pritchel holes, upset block and side shelf. $1495+ ship Link removed due to no third party or off site sales policy
  15. I read online that many people like the Ozark pattern anvil from the Ozark School of Blacksmithing. When I try to find these for sale I can not locate them anywhere. When I go to the Ozark school of Blacksmithing page I see no store or anything about anvils for sale. Are these anvils no longer made or where they just a one time deal or what? Anyone know the place to buy one possibly?
  16. On the OA, I never felt comfortable with them. I always feel like it is a lot more dangerous. A tank could blow up or something. When I used them in high school I could cut fine with them, I did a fairly good job. But I never really learned much about them and how to set them up and turn them on. I feel that the flame is going to get sucked back in to the hose and the tanks go BOOM and I die or something, not sure if this is possible. Or too much pressure blow the nozzle right off the bottle and it go shooting around like a rocket. I don't know why I feel this way, I think our high school ag teach scared us to much into knowing how dangerous stuff could be and why we had to be safe in the shop. I think I might be over thinking and over cautious about it. When I used plasma cutter in school, I felt safer and it was easy to set up and use. I don't know if I would be getting a plasma cutter right now anyway. I have been looking into a air compressor long before I was looking at plasma cutters. I don't own one and need one for several task in my workshop and around the home. I was looking at a 60 gallon minimum 2 stage and 3hp minimum but haven't found a good one yet. On the anvil, I like the Peddinghaus but they are expensive but read that forged steel is the best quality material to get and thought that would be a good standard that would last. I looked at the TFS, and have asked about them and found nothing but good reviews on them but I read that the metal quality of Ductile Iron is like 3rd or 4th best, just above cast iron aso. Not sure if this is true or if the author was just bias to something else. Nimba is quite expensive like Peddinghaus, they are cast steel. I want to buy something that will last so I don't waste money. I am not looking to do huge work that would require strikers. I have been using piece of railroad track a bit but it can be a head ache using it. I am not sure what anvil size I would need. Most of the thicker material would be for legs of projects. The legs for tables or whatever wouldn't require much hammering, just twisting and bending. So I was thinking even a 100-150 would be fine. If the project is bigger, it would just require a little bit more hammering, right? Althought I could get a little bigger one for the price of the Peddinghaus I was looking at. If I were to get the plasma cutter it would be for projects such as this. Cutting out the decorative figures out of sheet metal.
  17. What other brands of anvils should I look at, any particular models or other sizes that would work good? I was looking at TFS also. I am having a hard time deciding what to get because I was thinking of getting a air compressor and plasma cutter possibly.
  18. I was looking at the Ridgid Peddinghaus model 9 165lb Double Horn. It is forged steel and I can get it at total of $1170 no tax and no shipping charges. Unless anyone has any recommendations. I was looking at the model 12 275lb but not sure if I would get enough large projects to justify it at $1787. I have looked for used but decided I will go ahead an get new.
  19. I have been searching for a new anvil but not sure what size I will need. I have found some examples of items I am interested in making. I am woodworker originally and most of my work will be combined woodwork and blacksmithing. The thickest material I think would be about 1-1.5 inches thick or some for table, chair and bench legs. I would not be using this thick always nor would I be using the anvil everyday. I was looking at a 165lb double horn, would this be adequate? Here are some pictures of items I am interested in creating similar pieces. These are not my projects, just some I found on the web that I liked.
  20. Can someone give me some info on Ductile iron anvils please? I I read that they are a type of cast iron, does this mean it is pretty much a ASO with a different name? Do they make good anvils? Will they last a lifetime? Are they worth getting? I just don't know much about them and looking for some information and pointers.
  21. I found this on a another thread on these forums, this was said by Sam Falzone in the thread " At About What Weight is a Anvil Considered Shop Size?" He said: "I think this is very much a case of "the shop/smith dictates the anvil". It comes down to what is the shop or smith going to be producing? -If all you ever plan on making is nails, s-hooks, j-hooks, steak turners and working with steel in the 1/4" to 3/8" range, then you don't really need a particularly heavy anvil ... 75lbs to 120lbs should do just fine. -If you are going to do more sculptural ironwork in heavier stock sizes - 1/2" up to 1.5", then a heavier anvil will be more of an asset (not necessarily REQUIRED, just more of an asset), probably around 150lbs to 200lbs -If you plan on doing really heavy smithing in stock sizes 2" or greater, then anvils greater than 250lbs are an asset. -If all you plan on doing is jewellery work, then anvils smaller than 50lbs are all you need. BUT ... none of this is written-in-stone-scripture because once you throw in talent and skill, then it's pretty much anything goes. Brian Brazeal makes great hammers and other tools which involve reasonably heavy stock sizes, but works on an anvil less than 80lbs. Other smiths have anvils the size of small aircraft carriers (1200lbs +). If you're looking for an all-purpose anvil size... I would suggest 150-175lbs. Someone else would probably suggest another size, and someone else - another size again. Other variables include portability - if you want to move your setup regularly, you'll probably want an anvil size you can move without seriously hurting yourself. If all you can find is an old 100lb anvil, then start with that. You may never buy another anvil again, or you may trade-up to something heavier later on. Having been a part of this community for a few years now, one of the things I've learned is that there are no hard and fast rules to things like shop size and anvil weights. You work with what you have and learn to persevere. But while there are no hard and fast rules, there can be guidelines. What I've written is what I've picked up so far from 15 years of casual hobby experience and a lot of listening. Hope it helps. Welcome to I Forge Iron. Sam" Is this pretty accurate on anvil size vs work size?
  22. No I haven't asked a person everyday haha. I have been looking for time spread out over that length of time not a constant search.
  23. I live in Texas, about 25 miles east of Texas A&M, hour and half north of Houston. Found 1 anvil at scrap hard but was beat up and horn broken off of it. My grandfather was looking for one from the farm his family had but it was gone not sure if someone else in the family tree got it or what. My dad is a mail man and asked people on his mail route. One man said he thinks he knows of one he maybe can get, then that gentleman was killed in a car accident. My cousin inherited some land from his father in law that had a bunch of old farm equipment and old forge but didn't come across a anvil anywhere. Look on craigslist and ebay, can't find much. If I see one it is overly beat up and asking too much. Nothing in classified adds. So in the mean time of looking, I now have the ability to buy a new one.
  24. I am looking at getting a anvil but not sure which size to get. I have been using RR track and want to upgrade. I want to make anything from knifes and tools to furniture decorations and legs. I was looking at the Ridgid Peddinghaus 165# or the 275#. My current hammers are 2lb ball peen and 3lb cross peen. I will get heavier or lighter hammers when I need them for projects. I can get either one free shipping and no tax so it would be just the cost of the anvil. The 275# is $600 more than the 165#. I know there are used anvils and some people will suggest getting a used one but I have been looking for a good used one for the past 1-2 years and have not found anything worth getting. I have the ability to get a new one and wish to. I see TFS anvils also but not sure if I want to get cast ductile iron if I can get a forged steel.
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