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I Forge Iron

skender

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  1. All of those hammers I've seen in Aus also had the dies facing to suit left hand.how do you get your pics up Basher ? As I have been trying to post my hammers but can't work out how to get them on.
  2. Sorry , don't have the photos anymore. Went with hammer. Although I did find the sales add that we're in the plant and equipment when I bought mine.my hammer had a clutch assembly the same as the pic rob Wilson put up as to say all the working friction clutch was in the center of the cast frame. The brake was cast into the top of the machine to take an adjustable push stop. The other hammer I spoke of that was advertised as a massey was the same as yours with the wheel behind the cast frame on the end of the main shaft. It is a black and white pic and can't get a clear shot of it to put up but it defiantly has a belt that clamps onto that wheel as a brake.if you get stuck I can go old school and send you this add in the mail .
  3. I am sure I still have photos of my hammer. Will try and find this morn to see if I have a clear pic of brake set up.
  4. Hi Basher . I bought one of those hammers about ten years ago. There seems to be afair few of them in Australia. Mine was an 80 lber . Be sure to check behind the bottom of the slide as it seems to be a week spot as I have seen three of them Brocken In this same spot. Mine also was Brocken and I decided to weld it as the previous owner made a bracket to hold it in place. It was. Large repair in the frame as it is quite thick . 40 hours of welding but worth it as was a nice machine to use . I went the whole rebuild in the end . They have a factory fit brake on them that works reLy well. Was offered a fair bit of money for it and sold it. There was a fella east of Aus that funnily enough was advertising one of these hammers as a massey spring hammer. It was like new , out of the box. I asked him why he thought it was made by massey and he massey iwas cast in the side of the frame. I fully buffed my hammer back to clean a clean grey casting and couldn't find any name on it.
  5. Finally got back to the fire. Thanks Thomas powers , I adjusted the choke and scale was thin and wire brushed of easily. I reckon you are right frosty as I do believe this size forge could do with an extra burner or two to get max heat . Did well though with 50 mm bars . Got enough heat to forge under little hammer.I did trash the the forge itself though. Broke the bottom bricks and tore the kaol wool on sides. Need to learn how to be gentile. May have to get lessons from my wife. (Skender)
  6. Didn't get a chance to fire forge again . Got bogged in paperwork and charcoal making. Yes frosty the internal diameter is 10 inches and 22 inches long. I made this forge in pure desperation after the fires Nearly stoped burning due to lazy organisation skills while moveing workshop. Figured I didn't have storage space while between moves and let stock dwindle. Just so happened when I got back to working the forge it was the middle of summer here. Fiiiiiireman said no can do. I made the forge as big as I thought would work as to try and get all sorts of shapes inside. Oxy and LPG is verry costly for us and I try to do all or most of my work in the forge and only pick up the oxy for tweeking . Most of my fuel is wasted by doing long draw downs under the hammer. My reasoning was that larger peices off stock could be put in the gas fire and switched to the charcoal to get final white heat to work.Just so happened I found this site and followed a conversation you were having about gas forges with another fella.I seen the pics of your forges and could have kicked myself as would be a better design for what I needed it for. Anyway! Got to start somewhere. On saying all that , it was the sizes of similar forges in Michael Porter book and am verry surprised at the heat I am getting. It does get verry near a welding heat when it's been running for an hour or so. He did mention in the book about putting baffles in if only using half the forge so will have to make one .All my forge welding would be done in charcoal although now I've come this far would be great to be able to get a weld in the gas. Will have try a smaller fire with these burners. Will let you know how it goes when I put the second burner in next week. ( Skender)
  7. Spent this arvo studying the colors of the Dragons Breath. They were mainly blue with faint orange tips. I adjusted gas from 10 , 20 and 30 psi. I tried adjusting the the choke in all ranges . I opened and closed the rear door on the forge and I must be going blind as the colors didn't change at all. Only noticed that the more gas THE BIGGER THAT DRAGON BEARED DOWN ON ME . The forge is 10 inch ID and 22inches long . I have made it to take 2 three quarter inch burners but only have one burner in at the moment. Tomorrow i will be forging some pretty heavy bar (2 inch dia ) so I think I may have to just experiment with air intake . Realy tempting to push that dragon into the cnr put a muzzle on it and fire up the charcoal but must persist . With all your well appreciated help I may even learn how to use this thing .
  8. Thanks frosty much appreciate info on exiting flame . I reckon I am fairly close to what you were explaining and need a little fine tuning. The burners I made are similar to the Michael Porter desighn with a sliding choke .I am arking up the fire this morn and will play Round with air intake. I have made with mig tips so have been experimenting with .8 and .9 tips or (.30 to .35 tips).I have been putting off making a gas forge for a lot of years but am happy so far with the heat I am getting from this little fire. Nick , I havnt had to put anything on top of our charcoal fires to forge weld. Me and another older fella that taught me how to work with charcoal go to perth to the west australian blacksmith association and teach forge welding classes. We normally have 8 fellas working and they all have a charcoal fire to work on. For example I will start with the fist guy and get his fire right and within 15 minutes he will be producing fairly good welds. I would make my way through the rest of the students and finally get back to my first student who by then is in all sorts off trouble with manky looking attempts at failed welds. The problem always seems to be that they have let there charcoal burn to low and hollow. As soon as we get the fire built up again we are back in welding buisness.I don't know what's it's like to weld in coal but I do know that with charcoal the fire has to be perfect to get results. I personly have a lovely decoration of dents around my tin shop wher the hammer has been thrown through the air in frustration over the learning years. I have watched lots of vids on YouTube of coal forging and would love to have a go at it but have tried but cannot get hold off here. I am 3 hours drive fom perth in the south west of Aus .charcoal here is like gold. if you get time to watch the video I mentioned you can see we are welding 2 inch x 2 inch bar on fairly small fires . I had to constantly stoke fire up.ok am going back to get gas fire going to see if I can adjust without poisoning myself .(Skender)
  9. Hi gents . I am a new member to this site. I have only used charcoal so I couldn't compare it to using coal . Frosty is quite right in saying that you need a deep fire to burn up the oxygen.the size of the charcoal pieces work best between 10 to 20 mm as also not to let to much oxygen through.It is a bit more difficult with bigger pieces .It is better to weld in a fire that has been burning for a while rather than a newly started fire.the charcoal fire I use is bottom blast 125 mm deep. The iron would be at the top of the neutral zone with a good healthy pile off charcoal on top. It is easy to let the charcoal fire get hollow in the center so you need to make sure you've got a bit stacked up around the edges as to drag in quickly when needed.I bring the iron to a heat that it is just starting to sparkle. I take it from the fire , and give it a quick wire brush and stick the ends into sand and put back in fire. Then get it to welding heat and close together. I have tried other fluxes but have had best luck with sand. It is really essential to make sure the fire is tight and not to upset it with the poker . I have a question that I hope someone can help me also with. I have been using charcoal for the past twenty years as we can't get any good coal in west aus. I make all my own charcoal as you cannot buy anywhere here. I have recently made a gas forge to reduce my charcoal consumption and am going pretty well with it although I find the scale is really thick and difficult to remove. I have no idea if this is normall or if I am tuning the gas and air ratios incorrectly .hope I was of some help . I have a video on YouTube under blacksmithing in Western Australia . We were training some of the members of the association and made an anchore using charcoal fires and old wrought iron picked up arround the local farms . It may be off some use to you?(Skender)
  10. Nice shop. Especially like the massey hammer. Is it a 3 cwt ?
  11. Thanks for all this info boys. I am a new member thanks to Andrew and Trica from Farmweld.I have recently purchased a 2 cwt clear space massey in W A ( although an old one according to John at Massey ) and have never seen or used one before. I am very appreciative of all the info on this site and am a bit more educated on Massey hammers now. Moony has been a huge source of info also to me on these machines. I have been trying to get info on isolating vibration from hammers and will now contact John again at massey and buy drawings and such for correct installation. I have been researching for years and keep hitting brick walls on this subject. I have had problems over the past 20 years with hammer vibration from adjoining properties in industrial sites with just little hammers ranging from 50lb to 150lb let alone a 2 cwt Massey, although from what I have seen from you guys these are baby hammers. I am building a new workshop and like Hans , am close to neighbours. Thanks to all this info I will do some research before I pour conc. I will place pics of restoration and installation later .
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