Rob Browne

Wonder what sort of rock that anvil is made of??

I use a bilge exhaust fan I got off eBay for my forge. It blows plenty of air and is QUIET :)

Now that looks like a top class forge. I would not be surprised if you never make another one again as it is probably all the forge you will ever need.

If noise is a problem consider using a 4x4x12 drop of steel as you anvil. It will not ring and is surely large enough for most hand hammering jobs.

Good advice on a "real" anvil. As for saving for a "better forge" and blower, think about making one for yourself. After all, they are just a firepot with a table around them and some sort of airpump. If you buy it, it will cost you lots and it will still be set up for someone else. Make one yourself and it will be the design you want/need. Don't be in too much of a hurry to upgrade, many people never "upgrade" from their rivet forge as it is a very versitile bit of kit.

Looks like your fire needs to be deeper as well to really get it going.

You could build a lean to with an insulated iron roof that does now connect to the main foofline. If you build the roof higher than the existing one so it overlaps but leaves a 6" gap this will create a natural vent for your forge. Make sure the roof is insulted so you don't get radiant heat from it in summer, you have enough heat from the forge.

I use a mortar mix in my forge and leave it to dry for a few days before lighting a simple wood fire in it a few times to really dry the cement. If its wet that appears to cause crumbling with a hot coal fire to take your time.

Make sure you line it and shape the fire box in so doing.

Would just about kill for one of those sandstone grindstones......................

Reckon that back in those days rough hands would have been the norm rather hand the exception.

My point exactly! If the 500lb monster moves you lose energy but you may not notice it in proportion to the anvil BUT a small anvil can be made to act like a larger anvil by a VERY solid mount securing system. Just remember not to hit the heel and bick too hard on a little one :)

That almost describes my forge exactly and is a really common pattern in rural areas where discs are common. It would work a bit better if you cut a hole for a brake drum to deepen the fire and the rim around the edge needs to have a couple of cutouts for getting long stock down into the correct part of the fire.

So the question should really be - does the mounting method of your anvil increase the efficiency of your anvil? If a 500lb monster moves then a 50lb tiddler will fairly jump off the bench so securing the anvil to a STABLE base is what will make the difference not necessarially the weight of the base.

I reckon you will like it a whole lot more if you open the hole for the brake drum so the drum can fall through. Then weld a few hooks to catch the drum so its flush with the table. This will make fire management much easier. Wish my forge was as good as that!

Its very easy to forge a suit and sword on the playstation though.............................. Should be just as easy in real life :rolleyes:

That's one way to empty the shallow end of the gene pool! Crazy.

Very nice job.

Its a good feeling isn't it when it happens. Sometimes I think such a big deal is made of welding that it causes most of the problems. We know we are beginners so we can't forge weld and that stops us. If the metal is soaked to the right temperature then gently hammered in short time there is no reason welds won't work. You should be proud of the blade, it looks great, and a bit smug about the welding success.

Just fill them again with the clay. Its cheap and easy.

Have you just tried some black pipe with a lump of clay on the end as you have said. Very cheap and simple and easily replaced.

Really worth a look that movie. Thanks for posting :)

Have you had a look at the 55 forge plans pinned to the top of this forum yet? Simple to make and works really well.

Threads like this must make people like Brian very happy to see their demos put into practice.