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I Forge Iron

Kal

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Everything posted by Kal

  1. Kal
    I think your best and easist path would be to cut the block into strips. Then sandwich them into a bar and TIG weld the edges back into a more or less solid. Because of all the chrome, about 18% and nickel, about 11% 304 won't forge weld so TIG or MIG with SS wire are about the only options.
  2. Kal

    IMG 20140226 00562

    Kal posted a gallery image in Candles

    IMG 20140226 00562
    Reproduction Roycroft strap candle sticks
  3. Kal
    I have to agree that a great precentage of people I've met through blacksmithing are the most helpful, friendly, and encouaging. I know there are smiths out there who keep 'trade serects' and won't tell you anything, but I have yet to meet one.
  4. Kal
    I don't know if it will work on an anvil but back in the day, we cracked the side of an engine block of a 426 hemi. Those things were too expensive to just scrap it so we drilled and tapped a series of holes along the entire crack starting just past the end of the crack. After each screw was put in place it was ground off even with the surface and the next hole placed to overlap the first. It took a long time but the fix worked, no more water leaks.
  5. Kal
    It's a good looking anvil and no matter where it was made if you like and it gives good service that's all that really matters. Enjoy
  6. Kal
    Zom, are you sure that is a Hay Budden? All of the HBs that I have seen including my 190# say they were Manufactured Brooklyn NY on the bottom line. Course I could easily be wrong.
  7. Kal
    One more thing about punching the hole, you've got to keep it hot. If you try to strech it out once it cools it will tear.
  8. Kal
    Back when I used to make steel in 200 ton batches, we would tap stainless out of the furnace around 2650 and the fancy alloys around 3000. In both cases there was all kinds of supper heat in the steel to allow us to pour it. The alloy steels 4140 or 8620 for example were actually run into a second ladle that was housed in a vacum tank so it had to be much hotter for the extra handling. So 2700 should be fine.
  9. Kal
    Those nails are the ones the are used to put together concrete forms. The idea being that you can drive them in tight with the first head and still easily pull them out with the other head once the concrete sets.
  10. Kal
    It's kind of primative but it was the first one that actually opened bottles.
  11. Kal
    I've used muiratic acid to clean an old badly rusted hammer head. It had been sitting in a basement for years. I was really surprised how well it turned out. I just dropped it in a jar full. One thing to keep in mind, the fumes from that stuff will rust everything in the shop and it isn't too good for your lungs either so do it outside.
  12. Kal
    You can give it a brass/golden look by brushing it with a brass brush while it's black hot. The brass transfers from the brush to the steel.
  13. Kal
    These are my first attempts at Chrismas ornaments. The large one is really too heavy for most trees and neither one is very straight. Something to hang in my shop. :) Merry Christmas to All y'all
  14. Kal

    Show me your vise

    Kal replied to Glenn's topic in Vises

    The adjustable legs allow for uneven ground at demos. The one disadvantage is that the legs get in the way when cleaning up the shop.
  15. Kal

    Hey Y'alls

    Kal replied to Kaalo's topic in Introduce Yourself

    You might get in touch with one of these guys. My first blacksmith class at John C Campbell Folk School was taught by them. They're both based in Missouri. http://www.washingtonforge.net/ Pat McCarty Bob Alexander, you have to email him through the folk school web site.
  16. Kal
    I liked the ornament idea enough to give it a try. The first one turn into scrap. The second is made out of 3/16 round and is a little heavy. The other is 1/8 round stock. Neither one of them is very straight but a good learning experince none the less. I tried to forge weld the first with no success so the other 2 are mig welded into a large lump on each end. Then they are drawn out. The finish is from a brass brush.
  17. Kal
    A31238 is the serial number it can tell you the manufacte date. The 312 may be a weight.
  18. Kal
    I use a 1000 gr, 2.25# for most work with an 800 gr for small stuff and when I get tired.
  19. Kal
    Yours looks like a classic old time screwdriver. I still have one that my Grandfather used to drive wood screws into tables & chairs.
  20. Kal
    I made mine by stamping a simple CK into a piece of mild steel then heating the pein of a ballpein hammer to almost melting point. Once the hammer was hot, I hit it into the stamp mark to make the stamp.
  21. Kal
    Here's a view of my post vise in a portable stand that one of the guys in our group(ABBA) made. One of the things that make it nice is that by adjusting the chain lengths you can make up for uneven ground.
  22. Kal
    One tip I learned from Steve Williamson is that once you have cut the horns/ears, lay them back down next to the stock. By being against the main body of stock they are not likely to burn off.
  23. Kal
    I gave $400 for my 190# HB that is in about the same condition as the one in the pictures. You can find another gun a lot easier than you can a good anvil.
  24. Kal
    For those who like to make wizards and other things out of railroad spikes this jig can come in handy. It's made by cutting most of one side off a piece of square tubing. Fold one end over and weld it shut. Attach a piece of 3/8 square stock to the bottom to hold it in the vise and lock the spike in place.
  25. Kal
    My old Champion hand blower from 1901 is nothing more than a gear box that turns the impeller. The impeller itself is a series of flat paddles.
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