TASMITH

I can give you one "quick and dirty" formula for stock required when making a ring Pete. example: you want to bend a ring with a six inch ID and are using 1/2 inch round stock Multiply the required diameter (inside) by three and the diameter of the stock by three and add them together (3X6)+(3x1/2)=18 + 1 1/2= 19 1/2 inches of material to make a six inch Id ring If you calculate the same thing using Pi x D 3.142 x 6 =18.875 inches But this gives you the diameter as measured in the center line of the stock and your inside diameter would end up just under six inches so you would have to add about a 1/2 inch to that length to achieve a six in inside diameter making it 19.375 inches or almost perfectly matching the "quick and dirty" calculation of 19.5 inches. Terry

I have all the Rural Development Commision Series they offered already downloaded and save in PDF format. If you want a copy you can PM me with your Email address and I will send them to you. Terry

One common idea in most of these posts is the fact that there are not many "Old Blacksmiths" around to teach the methods of old. Well one thing everyone seems to be forgetting is that everything that has been passed on over the years started with just one person. That person is the one that had to "invent"the tool or method in the first place! That is the basis of the old master blacksmiths "magic". Someone would approach him and say "I need a way to do such and such", then left it with the Blacksmith to figure out a tool or item with which the job could be accomplished. It is being innovative in this way that helped to develop the trade the way it was. They were the early engineers. Later people began to design tools and again the Blacksmith was approached to figure out a way to make it. He would draw on his past experiences and combine them with perhaps a new idea of how to do it and a new method/tool was created. This is what Blacksmithing is all about. It is as much planning and thought as it is physical work when you are called upon to make or do something you have never done before. I worked for almost thirty years as a Blacksmith in both a major steel producing industry, and a major auto parts forging operation. I was asked to make some really odd looking tools or unusual forgings that were specific to the industry.When I served my apprenticeship I worked with five other blacksmiths in a large capacity forging shop. We forge items you wouldn't know what they were for unless you worked out in the mills , steelmaking ,iron, making or coke making. Sometimes we would get new proto type jobs for doing something in the mills and it was up to us to figure out how to forge them.Later when I moved to the auto parts forging shop I was the only Blacksmith. If someone wanted something new in the way of a tool or different style of forging tongs it was up to me how to make them. I had no one else to turn too and had to rely on my own experience and knowledge of how to forge different things. and be creative on my own. The fact that we have modern tools, materials, the internet, and endless books on the subject to learn from it still comes down to the individual and their ability to work out ways of doing things. Forums like this now make it much easier to share our ideas and thoughts with others so that they too can learn and perhaps even come up with a better easier way to do something or in fact be original. That is a Blacksmith! Terry

When coal is heated it releases a great number of different chemicals. One of the first things that happens is the release of coal tar. This is what is binding the lumps of coal together. It is also the cause of the heavy yellow/brown smoke that you see. These are some of the different chemicals which are being released from the tar and some of which are highly flammable. This is the large flame produced after the coal has been heated to a high enough temp. for the tar to break down. There are way too many chemicals in coal to list here, especially when talking about those released from the tar. After these various chemicals, gases,tar etc. have been driven out of the coal, what remains is carbon, called coke. In coke ovens under controlled conditions , this leftover coke is almost pure carbon with some sulfur and a few other trace elements left behind.You don't achieve the same level of pure carbon when you make coke in your fire due to the fact that the temperatures where the coal is "Roasted" do not reach the higher temp or air tight conditions found in coke ovens. That said however, the coke you do produce in your fire burns at a higher temp. than the coal itself does enabling you to obtain the high temperatures used in forge welding. there is also little or no smoke given off as most of the volatiles have already been burned off making your coke in the first place. Some of the tar remains even after you have "partially" coked your coal and this is what keeps it bound together. A simple matter to break it up into usable sized pieces with your poker for use in your next fire. This is in fact what you are aiming for when you build your fire is to have some coke for your next fire in order to have a nice clean burning fire with a minimum of smoke and good heat. Ok Class Dismissed. The instructor is getting off the soap box now. Terry

In Paw Paws case he put galvanized steel directly in his fire. The temperatures even at the surface far surpass the levels required to cause the galvanizing to break down. i have a side draft chimney on my forge. The box portion is made of regular thin sheet steel but the stack is 10 inch galvanized steel. The box temperature gets up to about four to five hundred degrees when flame from the coke fire goes in, and the stack sits about twelve inches up from the base of the fire. The stack itself has never gotten any hotter than about four hundred degrees which is well below any point of breakdown of the galvanized. The opening on the intake box of the chimney is of sufficient size to draw cooler air in from around the sides of the fire and keep the stack temperatures at an acceptable safe level.I "WOULD NOT" however recommend that he make the intake box out of galvanized as flame impingement on a localized area of the box "COULD" cause a problem. Terry

The hood should never get hot enough to cause a problem in use. The problem lies in using galvanized to make the hood in the first place. If it is formed all by cold work, then their is no problem.But if you try using a welding torch or electric welder to assemble, then you are in danger of heavy metal poisoning from fumes generated by the galvanizing. Any high temperatures, such as those generated by even a propane torch will cause the galvanizing to break down releasing Highly Toxic fumes. Better to stick with plain mild steel if you can get it. Terry

My forge I got just prior to building my new shop had a regular overhead hood with a ten inch chimney attached that did pull the smoke away but not very effectively. I made a modified version of the side draft that works extremely well now. I usually throw a bit of crumpled newspaper in the draft box to warm the chimney a bit when the weather is cool in early spring/late fall to get it drawing till the fire is going well but otherwise never have to worry about smoke. Overall length of the ten inch stove pipe is about twelve feet straight up so I get really good draw.

Hermann, Don't know what size pipe you are needing to bend, Wall thickness, diameter, pipe or just tubing, but I have a book that I purchased that was published by David J. Gingery Publishing in Rogersville, MO USA. The title of the book is How to Build a Pipe Bending Machine. It is a 48 page booklet with complete step by step illustrated instructions to build a pipe bending machine using simple materials and minimum of tools for use in your shop. I built one that I have bent a number of different sized diameter tubings with up to 2" in dia. and wall thicknesses of up to 1/8" thick. It works really well and is easy to modify to suit your needs. I payed only $9 US for it and was well worth the money. Check out their website at: www.gingerybooks.com You can also Email them at: gingery@gingerybooks.com for information on availability of the book where you live. Terry

Someone has a Peter Wright anvil for sale in Kingston Ont., Canada. Says it is in good condition but does not list weight. Asking $500 firm. If Interested you must Email him your phone number. Listing is on brockville.kijiji website for contacting seller. Listed April 03. Located on lower Princess St. down near the waterfront (looks like it is just before Ontario St)Someone close by may be interested. I don't need it as I have three anvils already and can only use one at a time so don't need a fourth. Terry

After "CRITICAL MASS" is reached a "RUN AWAY CHAIN REACTION" occurs. :o

Phil, you are correct in the fact that hearing aids have noise attenuators (Mine do have that feature) however they are not an efficient hearing protection device. I wear mine on occasion in the shop but I also wear my ear muffs over them. I just don't want people to maybe get the idea that if they have their hearing aids in that it will prevent hearing loss from loud or extended exposure to noise levels that would cause hearing loss. The ONLY protection against hearing loss is a certified form of hearing protection. It is not fun to have permanent hearing losses of 30to 40 percent, which is what I have in each ear respectively, and it ALL could have been prevented by the simple use of PROPER hearing protection in my younger (Invincible?) years. That is why I am such a proponent of the proper protection and why my boys think I am nothing but a Royal Pain in the Butt because I always ask if they are using it when working with power tools..Etc. Terry

Any noise level above the acceptable level (90 Db) will continue to cause hearing loss. Even though you have already suffered some loss at a certain level that same level of noise will continue to cause hearing loss. Very fine "hairs"(the technical name escapes me at the moment) inside the inner ear pick up vibrations from the ear drum and transfer them to nerve endings that send the signal to your brain in order to interpret the sound. It is these "hairs " that become damaged from excessive noise levels.Partially damaged results in hearing loss and if the sound "intensity" (Db level) is high enough it can destroy them completely resulting in total hearing loss. Even though only partly damaged and some hearing loss is noted, they can continue to deteriorate with more exposure to excessive sound. Hearing aids work by filtering the intensity or "pressure" of the sounds down to a low enough level to protect the ears but at a sufficiently high enough level to help you hear safely. Hearing aids "ARE NOT HEARING PROTECTORS!", So please do not wear them when working around high noise levels. Hearing aids work by amplifying only the ranges of sound that have been identified as "Lost" due to noise exposure. They are not general "sound" amplifiers.Unfortunately noise induced hearing loss affects mostly the mid-range of frequencies we are able to hear and again,unfortunately, this happens to be the average frequency range of most speech. A long winded explanation perhaps but to answer your question in short: continued exposure to sound levels above 90 Db without hearing protection can continue to make it worse, so your best bet is to Either get hearing aids, or set an external speaker from your TV closer to your ears and keep the sound down as much as you can. Terry

Noise exposure can cause permanent hearing loss with just a one time , brief exposure to an extremely loud sound, or a much lower level of sound endured over a long period of time. The recommended level of exposure without some form of hearing protection, over a continuous 8 hour period is 90 Db (decibels)That is about the same level as a dishwasher or garbage disposal. A decibel is a unit of measurement of the INTENSITY of the sound and is a Logarithmic Scale. This scale means that a decibel rating of 80 is TEN times as intense as a rating of 70Db, and a rating of 90 is 100 times more intense and 100 is 1000 times more intense than a rating of 70Db.So even a rating change of 10 decibels is significant in terms of intensity. Exposure time should be reduced significantly with each increase in decibel ranges. There are currently two different exposure rating systems in place. One system says if the Db(decibel) level increases by five (ie 70 Db to 75 Db)exposure time should be reduced by half. The other system uses a Db change of only three Db to cut exposure time by half. as an example OHSHA says 90Db-8 hours max exposure, 95Db-4 hours max, 100Db- 1 hour max and so on (the other scale goes up by 3Db per exposure reduction time). these are Un-protected exposure limits. With good hearing protection (which reduce the intensity or Db level of the sound by their rating factor)you can stand higher levels of exposure or for longer periods of time than the normal un-exposed equivalents. As one who worked in the steel industry for almost thirty years, I am very familiar with noise induced hearing loss. I didn't always wear hearing protection and now have permanent hearing losses in both ears. You don't realize just how much you have lost until you get a proper hearing test. The loss can be very gradual but each bit you lose is PERMANENT. I find it impossible to follow conversations in places like bars if their is music, or at wedding receptions etc. unless I have my hearing aids on and even then if it is particularly loud it is not possible to hear all the conversations at the table.So I would strongly advise the use of hearing protection at all times. You don't get "USED" to the sound, you just can't hear it as well because you have suffered hearing loss! Some people may feel that the cost of hearing protection may be excessive but if you compare the cost of a good pair of ear muffs (at $70) to the cost of GOOD hearing aids (mine - $5,000) it is a no brainer! Terry

Nice video John. Brings back a lot of memories I too was an industrial Blacksmith at a steel company and have made countless numbers of chisels and such for use in the coke ovens along with countless hooks for lifting lids, and too many other weird and wonderfull tools only used in steel mills. But that is a topic unto itself. What you call "checking tool" we used to call a "necking down" tool. Our were shaped like a piece of Quarter round with two flat sides and one curved side. The flat side was place so that when we forged the shoulder it would leave a square edge on the chisel side and a curved radius on the tang side. The curve on the tang side assured that we would not get a cold shut on the tang and we wouldn't have to use a "Header" block to square the shoulders on the chisel side as you did. we also did not use a taper block to form the wedge as you did as our hammers were just a bit bigger than yours (1,000 to 3,000 Lbs). We used to draw out the taper (same technique) and then use a Large Flatter to smooth the surface and finish the wedge. Of course with the size of our hammers we had a "Hammer Driver" who ran the hammer, and a helper who placed and held the various tools under the hammer, such as the flatter and swedges. You have a very good set-up though for a one man operation and you seem to have put a lot of work and effort into setting up your operation. Very well done and from all I saw in the video you are an accomplished blacksmith. Terry

As a side note, if you go to the home page and check under the 'Articles' heading you will find an article that I have written on the coke making process as it is done at a primary steel making facility. The description of the process produces the type of Metalurgical coke that you are probably using. Terry

If it is a true coke breeze that came from a coke making facility (Steel Mill etc) it is about 95% pure carbon. All the volatile gases, oils and tars have been removed from the original coal. What is left is carbon,small amounts of ash.sulphur and other very minor impurities. It takes a considerable amount of heat to light and a LOT of air to burn. It is however one of the premium fuels for forge welding as it produces vast amounts of carbon monoxide and almost no other undesirable products that can vastly affect welding. The large amount of Carbon Monoxide produced combines with available oxygen in the air blast and greatly reducing scale formation on your steel being heated to welding temp. Thomas is correct in saying that the coke will go out quickly if there is not a steady flow of air supplied. It is best used with an electric blower and controlled air blast by means of an air gate. Terry

Black_Flame, there are a couple of members on this forum who are in your general area and I am sure they would enjoy a visit from you. One is Robert Mayo in Renfrew, and the other is Che Guevara (evolutioniron.com) who lives in Winchester. There are several of us a little further south of you in the Kingston Area as well. I am in Lyndhurst (a half hour north of Kingston off Highway 15). We are all willing to help out as much as we can. Terry

During spring summer and fall, I have plenty to keep me busy around the "Yard" (ten acres, about five of which is grass I cut:o) I never worry about slow time. My shop is not heated so I don't work in it all winter and have plenty of projects to do come spring and the warmer months. Normally in the winter months I would spend most of my time researching things on the internet and doing inside repairs and projects that are ignored during the warmer times. This winter however is going to be a lot more exciting as I am going to be working with another Blacksmith (in a heated shop) who has been learning on his own. He has built himself a little power hammer and I am going to take the winter to teach him how to make some tools and get the best use out of his hammer. I have been working at this trade for thirty years and am really looking forward to passing on my knowledge to someone who is not only really enthusiastic but also very talented in his own right. He is more of an artistic Blacksmith where as I am more practical (more of a tool maker) and it will be a good learning opportunity for both of us. Terry

Been there and done that myself Ted. And now ,like you, I enjoy working at my own pace in my little shop. As with you, I have no one around during the day but the cat and dog and they are more interested in laying about or playing than in what I am doing. I also enjoy every non-profitable minute of it and really enjoy the chance to try something new "just because". Terry

Glenn, Glad to see the links to the articles. Glad you got it worked out. As usual you have gone out of your way to make things happen on this site. Thank you. Terry

I had the opportunity to serve an apprenticeship in Blacksmithing at a major steel producer back in 1980. Worked in the shops dept. of the steel mill. The shop had 5 Blacksmiths and two apprentices. We had 3 large steam powered hammers. One 1,000 lb, one 1,500 lb, and one 3,000 lb hammers. Each hammer was run by a hammer driver as they were called. Each Blacksmith had a helper and the one on the big hammer had two helpers. there were three gas forges with the one on the big hammer being an actual furnace with an interior that was approximately 4 feet wide by ten feet long by five feet high. It was capable of heating a 14 in sq billet up to 2300 degrees F (used to make 100 ton crane hooks). we also had two large coke forges that we used for welding. We made a large variety of things used in all the different dept's. out in the steel works. We made specialized tools for the various rolling mills, steel making, coke making, iron making. tube division, finishing dept's. We also made up four legged chains and hooks, and made the links and welded them to fasten the four chain legs to a large ring and attach the hooks we made to the other end. These were used in steel making to dump the scrap hoppers into the Basic Oxygen furnaces when charging them. The big hammer was used primarily to make the crane hooks used in the overhead cranes all over the plant ranging from 15 to 100 ton capacity. We also made large lifting clevises for the steel making and riggers to use out in the various mills. The items we made are too numerous to mention here but covered pretty much all aspects of Blacksmithing that you could ever think of, including heat treating. Having the opportunity to work with five highly skilled Blacksmiths, each with their own methods of doing things gave me the best possible insight into how to make something and how to do it right, as someones life depended on it. After 7, 280 hrs of apprenticeship, three years of night school related courses and a further 1500 hrs of "improvership" I got my ticket and was a qualified journeyman. After a big economic downturn and major lay-off from the plant in the late 80's, I found a job at an auto parts forging operation as their Blacksmith making all the tongs used by the hammer operators forging the auto parts. I also made all the hand hammers they used as well as pry bars,cold chisels.peening tools for the die dressers and all the heat treating of the hot trimmers and cold work dies for the finishing dept. of the operation. I spent 22 years there and the company closed down about three years ago now. I now just work at my little forge at home doing what ever comes to mind or what someone may ask for. After thirty years of working with power hammers my back is pretty much done in and I do all hand work now in nice small light materials. I have written a number of articles and sent them to Glenn, of my experiences and observations at the major steel mill I worked at and hopefully he will be able to figure out the small problem he has of trying to get them viewable to the rest of the community soon. I am also going to be doing a blueprint up at some point on how I make my tongs as I make mine quite a bit differently from almost any others I have ever seen. As I have made/repaired, as near as I can figure, in excess of 20,000 (not a typo!) pair of tongs in my career, I feel that I have gotten the science of making them down pat....LOL Have fully enjoyed every hour of my work and still do. I don't think there is anything more satisfying then having an idea and bringing it to life in metal! Terry

Okay, might as well jump on the Bandwagon.This picture was taken on Canada Day at the Town Park in Gananoque. Rikasso was doing a demo in the Park as part of the celebrations for Canada Day. I don't have time to do one this day as my wife and I are the organizers of the events and I do the fireworks in the evening so no time for me to demo. Rick kindly agreed to do it and had a great day. I am on the left and Rikasso (Rick) is to the right. Terry

20mm x 1000mm x 1800mm translates to approximately 7/8 " x 40" x 72" just in case you were really wondering what it is in imperial. Sometimes in cases like this it is nice to be familiar with both systems. The real beauty of the metric system is the fact that it is all based on base ten system as opposed to the wide variations and odd numbers of the imperial. It is now becoming the world standard for measurement although the imperial system is still being taught in the States I believe. Here in Canada all students are now taught the metric system and the next generations coming up have no idea of what the imperial system is or what an inch, yard, or mile are. If you say it is several miles to somewhere they have no idea how far that is. I guess a lot of the older generation are just going to have to learn the metric system as well although they will probably try to transfer it back to imperial to know for sure. Terry

This holds true for ANY molten metal when casting. Heat the mold first to ensure it is DRY! I have seen the roof blown off and a side wall blown out in a pig cast house at Algoma Steel when I worked there back in the eighties. Thankfully no one was killed or seriously injured. Apparently, who ever was supposed to check the pigs before pouring in the molten iron must have missed one, as it had some water in it! The resulting explosion was the equivalent to several pounds of TNT and the cast hose was down for repairs for three months afterward. Scary combination of water and molten metal. I would bet that the explosion seen in the video was just a bit of Dampness in the mold!

Thomas is correct in that your hardy should NEVER wedge in the hole. It is THE quickest way to break the heel off your anvil. All your hardy tools should drop in freely and be easily removed by hand. That is all that really needs to be said other than having a good shoulder on the hardy tool that rests even on on the face of the anvil to help absorb the impact. Terry