edennis

+1 for a bar of soap. Worked like a charm- plus it smells like mint now.

My motor pulley is only 5" diameter.

I do turn it off between uses. The motor pulley is maybe 4" so I'm guessing that's the culprit. The problem is that if I go much tighter it begins to engage the drive wheel, like you mentioned. Honestly I wouldn't mind the tacky belt and pulley if I knew it wasn't harming the belt and it wasn't so obnoxious to be standing next to it while its running.

Interesting. Sounds like maybe I need a different material then. Thanks.

I didn't put anything on the belt. But there's something getting tacky that that's in the belt there's between the layers. It's a seamless belt from baltimore belting. It seems to be working beautifully otherwise- even with using the smaller motor pulley. I did clean everything- got it all nice and clean with acetone, but slowly the problem developed again. I did put a new rubber brake on it, which stops the whole system on a dime. Maybe it's these braking moments that is causing something...? Is is bad to have the mechanisms stopping too quickly? Not adhesive really- whatever is holding the plys of the belting together. Both sides are symmetrical.

There's plenty of traction. If anything I need less traction. It's actually running really responsively. The belt adhesive is warming up I think and being deposited on the drive wheel- coating it and making it really grippy. When I scrub it off it is quiet and runs great still, but slowly the adhesive comes off again and the cycle continues. I'm not sure if the motor pulley is what's heating up the belt.

Hey folks, My seamless drive belt on a Bradley is squealing when put under tension. It seems the glue is slowly coming off and adhering to the drive wheel making it sticky. Anyone else experience this or have thoughts? is it too loose? Thanks,

Thank you

Thank you. So if I switched 1 and 2, for example, 7 & 2 would be a pair and 8 and 1 would be a pair, right?

If I wanted to switch the direction of this motor running on 230, which wires would I switch?

Thanks, I'll connect the three all together then.

Hi folks, I'm wondering if on this wiring diagram the wires 4-5-6 in series on the low voltage size can all be connected together using a twist on wire connector or if they need to be connected in a series (4 is not directly connected to 6, but through 5)? Thanks,

Ok, that's a helpful way to think about it. I guess it would depend a lot on the overall draw before the box was put in to the system. Thanks,

I'm wondering how a temporary increase volume affects the draw on a coal forge chimney: A 10" diameter round chimney that goes into a box measuring 14"x"14"x12.5" and then leaving as a 10" round again. Will this a affect the overall draft?

Amazing. That's what I want to hear!

Awesome! Thanks Frosty. Just what I wanted to hear. I wasn't looking forward to finding or making stainless brackets.

I built this exact setup using galvanized chimney pipe. It corroded and fell apart after a year and a half. I've recently bit the bullet and purchased stainless pipe for this reason. I have holes in the back of the fabricated square tube. Any smaller than 3/8" and they plug up easily with coal dust. My holes are always open and they don't effect the draw at all. I use a long rake to occasionally clean out the back, though a little trap door might be a nice modification to allow easier access. To go through the wood wall I just left an inch gap all the way around. Some sort of fireproof insulation to plug up that gap would be ideal.

I'm wondering if a stainless steel forge chimney will react with galvanized brackets due to galvanic corrosion on an exterior wall?

The shop is next to a small river. Fresh water. would silt and "muck" not be an issue getting into the moving parts?

Hypothetical scenario: I'm wondering if a serious flood (aka. submersion) would do any lasting damage to a mechanical power hammer (bradley strap)? My feeling is that it's so greased up it would be fine. The motor, likely not? Anyone experience such a case or have thoughts? Thanks

I'll look into it. I know very little about tin coating. Thanks!

Thanks for looking into it more. It makes me wonder how fast copper will dissolve to dangerous levels in acidic food (obviously PH dependent somewhat). Obviously i'm not going to can tomatoes in a copper vessel, but what about using a copper ladle to scoop warm tomato soup? It appears that the recommended daily maximum intake is 900 micrograms. I wonder how fast this quantity will accumulate in food?

Thanks for the reply: This is what I've been using from McMaster-Carr: Lead free, but hard to find other information on complete composition. Brushed Weldable Marine-Grade 464 Brass Sheets Yield Strength: 58,000 psi Hardness: Rockwell B80 (Medium) Temper: H01 (1/4 Hard) Heat Treatable: No Specifications Met: ASTM B171 One side of these sheets has a brushed finish with grain lines running in one direction to mask fingerprints. The brushed side comes covered with a protective peel-off film. A lead-free alternative to 485 brass, 464 brass offers good weldability, strength, and wear resistance. It’s widely used for marine hardware, pump and propeller shafts, and rivets. This site: https://elginfasteners.com/resources/materials/material-specifications/naval-brass-464/ is showing the following composition for 464 brass: Hopefully similar to what Mcmaster is selling... Component Wt. % Cu 59 – 62 Fe Max 0.1 Pb Max 0.2 Sn 0.5 – 1 Zn 39.25

Hello, I'm wondering about the safety of using a brass spatula in the kitchen. I generally avoid brass due to its zinc content, but I'm unsure if the temperatures reached during, say, cooking an egg pose a danger in terms of ingesting zinc. Anyone with more knowledge of the "fine" metals? Thanks in advance. -Eric

Thanks for the responses! Not gonna bite on this one, though it's temping if only to save a cool old machine. I believe the asking price was 900 or something around there.