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I Forge Iron

Mark Aspery

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Everything posted by Mark Aspery

  1. Steve, I don't know why Boric acid is added to Borax. My limited chemistry tells me that : Borax is a mix of two salts, acid and alkaline... and a bit of chemical water. There is more alkaline than acid so when it goes to work, it works as an alkaline corrosive. Adding acid would cancel more of the alkaline out. If you added just the right amount, you could neutralize the borax flux and make it as good as sand. Any ideas or thoughts?.
  2. I have used truck half-axles with good results. I am presuming that they have an amount of Nickel in them to help resist torsional rotation. I have made both hammers and top tools out of them. I use oil to harden them with. Thus far I have been very happy with the results.
  3. Here is a photograph detailing the 'Anvil effect'. A piece of 3/8 round was doubled back on itself and welded with the blows coming from one side only. You are viewing the piece from the side that was resting upon the anvil. Notice how the top side has spread more than the bottom. This shows that the bottom was acting as an anvil for the top to move. When we talk about the 'penetration of your blow' and 'working form all appropriate sides' this gives a clear example of why.
  4. I would like to know how you do this. Is the soft iron a third piece or do you weld it to one of the other pieces first and then make the weld?
  5. I think it is possible to schedule back-to-back courses at most of the school. I know that the Penland School in Nth Carolina offers 8 week - intensive classes -with the same instructor. There is a school in Canada that I believe is offering a 17 week class. Check out the ABANA web site (ABANA.org) and look under their educational opportunities.
  6. Before we talk about the wings, Let's look at the four things that can effect the penetration of your hammer-blow into a piece of metal. 1.) How hard are you hitting? 2.) How hot is the metal? 3.) What is the nature of the metal -stainless vs bronze 4.) The location of your hammer blow - in the middle of the stock or at one end. We know that we need to use light blows to unite a forge weld. We can use heavier blows once we are sure of the weld. If I have a 4 x 4 block of steel 12 inches long and it is ALL hot - as hot as you like (sav liqued). I want you to stand it on end and upset it into a cube using your hand hammer. How much effect do you think you will have at the bottom of the bar.... Zip-nil-zilch-nada you get the idea. So even though the bar is ALL hot, it can be argued that at some point it can act as its own anvil (the anvil effect) As you use light blows to unite a weld I doubt that you are fully penetrating both pieces of steel. The bottom piece will be acting as an anvil. The top piece will spread. If the toe of your scarf is as wide as the bar to which it will be weled, then the toe will spread past the sides of the bottom bar due to the anvil effect - thus creating the wings. A very pesky situation involving sharp intakes of breath and much gnashing of the teeth!
  7. No I wouldn't. I have a frame that sits in my (round) pritchel hole. It goes over the edge of the anvil and then turns 90 degree to parallel the anvil. As the bar is round, I can swing the frame out to act as a stand during a weld of long or difficult stock. I have an attachment (angle iron) that I can bolt to the frame to hold round stock securely. You can see the end of the frame in the photograph. The arrow just shows me resting the other stock on the side of the anvil as I guide it into place. A butt weld is an end to end weld.
  8. I started this thread as a result of posting on a similar thread. I thought the subject warranted its own start. There are many different types of scarf for forge welding. Some are regional (Germanic, UK or USA) and others favor a fuel source (coal, coke or propane) Still more are personal preferences. They all work, given the required practice! Please feel free to offer your own renditions and why they work. I favor the technique outlined below. It is the one that I have practiced and become familiar with and it is very user friendly for students. With more experience, you may change this scarf slightly by forming the step over a round edge and increasing its depth somewhat. Let
  9. I use Anhydrous Borax. I get this from a local knife maker. I don't think that there are any 'Super-fluxes' out there. Pick one and then get to know it ...well!
  10. Not in this case Jim, With the flux spoon, the little bend on the end was to allow a gap between the two surfaces in the (faggot) weld-but allow the toe (tip) of the scarf to touch the larger parent stock. In touching, the parent stock acts as a heat sink to the toe of the scarf, preventing it from burning in the fire. With the lap weld (drop tong) there is no heat sink available (2 separate pieces) - the smith has to be a little more careful in the fire to prevent burning the toe of the scarf. Thus no need for the little bend at the end. I do place the scarf with the toe up in the fire for most of my welding heat as I feel that the piece heats from the back first - this I feel protects the toe somewhat. As I hope you see - this is a hypothesis with no scientific evidence to support it.
  11. For me, it's a question of thinning down the toe of the scarf. If the end of the toe is thin, then it will soon be turned and forged into the bar. It is when the end is thick that it acts as a shear, cutting the metal (forming the crack ) rather than blending in. I hope these two photos show the problem and the fix. The graphic shows the result of a thick end to the toe (visable crack). The photo shows the fix - thin the toe before going into the weld. I hope that I am explaining this OK.
  12. Those look like nice welds - well done. I see a little crack at the toe of the scarf. For me that indicates that the toe was too thick going into the scarf. As the end (very tip) of the scarf is in line with the blows applied (top and bottom) it is not in a welding plane. When the surface is going in the same direction a as the blows, it is in a shear plane - not a welding plane. I hope that this makes sense to you. Nice job with your welds!
  13. If I have a brand that needs making it goes to Dick Fedder of Fickle Hill Forge And Farriery in Humbolt County Nth California. It'll come back right and exceedingly good value for money.
  14. Have you thought about plain old W2 steel? Plenty around - not too expensive - water hardened -Rockwell C 60 at 500 Degrees F temper - easy to forge (within forging range) 'Hand Chisel' is listed on the 'Uses' section Try this link Diehl Steel - W-2 Water Hardening Tool Steel
  15. I'm really not sure what the difference is between an amateur and a professional other than payment. I have seen some outstanding work done by self professed amateurs. I digress... I like to forge out the leaves rather than chisel detail into them. The below photographs represent by entry level leaf.
  16. Thanks Gerald, I've followed Lillico for a long time now - I see no reason to abandon his council at this stage! Good research - thank you. Can you give me chapter and verse (page and paragraph) please. Thanks to all who have contributed.
  17. I agree with the opinions stated. I think Nett's is closest to my own opinion. But it's just that, an opinion. I was really looking for chapter and verse. Even in older text I cannot find a definition. A heading plate to me was/is a flat surface with a hole in it. A bolster is anything other than a flat surface with a hole in it. In the photos attached I am drifting over two different plates. In fact one was used to make the other (as shown in photo). I know what I WANT to call each piece, but I cannot find anything that offers a definition.
  18. What is the difference between a heading plate & a bolster I have used the terms interchangeably throughout my career as a smith. I think that -'Wind direction during use'- is probably the single most important factor determining the use of one name over another that I have seen. Does anyone have a definitive definition?
  19. Book two is coming. I catch glimpses of the light at the end of the tunnel - but only glimpses. I reckon I'm at 75%. I've been at this thing for nigh on 7 weeks solidly..... No-one will be happier than I to see it published. Trust that things are well on your end Cheers, Mark

  20. Book two is coming. I catch glimpses of the light at the end of the tunnel - but only glimpses. I reckon I'm at 75%. I've been at this thing for nigh on 7 weeks solidly..... No-one will be happier than I to see it published. Trust that things are well on your end Cheers, Mark

  21. That waistline says Swedish to me... Frosty??
  22. I'm going to go for a Swedish Sodafors. Look for a crown somewhere on the waist of the anvil. Just a guess! If you look at it end on, is the waist narrower than the heel?
  23. I do know that AZ (AABA) has a similar system to the CBA. Grizz LaBrash is heading it up at the moment. It works on the same system as the CBA. There are blacksmith classes at the Mesa Art center.
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