Dan C

If you search this site you'll find this topic has been addressed many times. Don't get stuck on a london pattern, easy for me to say as I have one which I bought after having made enough money selling things I forged on this piece of RR track. If that's what you have it's recommended using it vertically, but as said search this site for alternatives.

I used to work for a tree service and could tell quite a few stories. I dropped one once into a pool while still running, retrieved it, pulled the spark plug, cranked it a few times to extract the water and put the plug back in and was able to run no problem. Another time the branch I was standing on acted as a springboard, first thing I did was shut off that saw. Then looked up at where I was tied in, praying that it would hold. I was 40-50' up in the air in a huge cottonwood tree. There's many, many tools in my garage that will kill or maim you, but I always give these the utmost respect.

I find 3-4 hours after working w/ a charcoal forge the buildup of ash restricts the temperature the forge will reach. Easy way around this is to periodically with the air off make a focused effort to stir the pot so the ashes fall down the tuyere and dump the firegate. Everything else I might add has already been said, I use firebricks to allow more height and less width.

Jim - I plan on using it as original, though the lead pipes for the player mechanism are completely shot. I'll need to research how to fix them though at this point I'll focus on replacing felt and getting the action to work so it at least functions as a piano. A neighbor who has a 1910 upright came over, he was the one who determined it was in tune and said it had a better sound than his. I'll be sure to keep in touch with you as I'm sure there will be lots of questions!

It's been awhile since I've had something to post in this thread and it isn't blacksmithing related, but here goes and at > 900 lbs it's definitely the largest & heaviest thing I've had follow me home. This is my next restoration project which I got for free AND got the original owner to pay the transportation fee $160 as the future husband insisted it go. Guess it beats having to pay a $150 dump fee as well as transportation. They also know it's going to a good home vs getting crushed. I've already taken it apart enough to know what work needs to be done next and get this...after removing the player mechanisms and action (which both need serious work) it's in tune! After finding out the strings, pinblock & soundboard were healthy I did try to pay for at least half the moving costs. They refused and are glad it went to a good home so I'm sending as a wedding gift a forged heart shaped bottle opener (at least I end this post with something smithing related) Still feel as if I robbed Fort Knox and kicked someone's dog. To top it all off today at work someone gave me an expensive leather welding apron and two sets of welding gloves. Maybe time to buy a lottery ticket!

#1 could never be more true! I had $ saved and ready for a golden opportunity, then my transmission went out. The day after paying for the rebuild it starts raining anvils & post vises on CL at prices low enough I could've bought them and had them sold for profit all in the same day!

Hi Hollis, I just started watching it as of last week and have enjoyed it so far. I hadn't seen any blacksmith shots yet though haven't watched the recording from last night.

My spring hold down.

Phone dupe

Mount it vertically so you have the most mass possible under your hammer. Heat treating isn't necessary. You'll find having it vertical works much better than it horizontal. This was my first anvil until I'd made enough to buy something better but still use it.

I got my 194 lb PW by watching the Pittsburgh craigslist as I had a friend offer to bring anything I found down on a moving truck to Texas. I paid just under $1.50 a lb. Good rebound except for the heel which also has two divots that appear to be from a torch. There a very small amount of sway that's perceptible with a straight edge. I don't remember where I found the following so I can't give credit where credit is due, but this is something I found when trying to look it up. "It is difficult to age a PW after 1860 when they went to the now classic London pattern. If it just says PETER WRIGHT PATENT, then likely 1860-late 1880s. If ENGLAND is added, then late 1880 to early 1900s. The logo was stamped on in parts. Perhaps when someone did your's they simply forgot where to put the SOLID WROUGHT circle or the weight. Occasionally stamps were put on upside down. Yes, on Peter Wright anvils. Might be an inspector mark or perhaps it meant it was approved for export. A classic sign of a post-1860 PW are small ledges on the front and back feet. You may have a very early PW since in 1860 on their typical logo was (stacked): PETER WRIGHT PATENT. Then SOLID WROUGHT in a circle usually with the middle weight number stamped in it. About 1910 they added ENGLAND under PATENT. A way to help bring out lettering is to lay on side and dust with flour. Brush off excess. What is left in depressions sometimes make stampings very easy to make out. If you do this I'd like to see a photograph of markings. Just click on my name and send as an attachment. It is not in Anvils in America but I am fairly certain Richard Postman told me Peter Wright did start putting serial numbers on their late production anvils. They started putting ENGLAND on their anvils about 1910 and are thought to have gone out of business about the 1930s. Peter Wrights seem to be about the most common old anvil in the U.S. judged by the amount which show up on eBay. They must have been exporting them to the U.S. in great quantity. "

Did each one undergo extensive testing to make sure they work just as well the 6th as the 1st time? : )

I always saves threads like this for future reference. Here are the links. Here is a picture of my track anvil.

You could build one of these, load it with Charles' hot pink paint, conceal it so it's pointing at the anvil which is then rigged with a trip wire. http://www.spudgundepot.com/pneumatic-modified-sprinkler-valve.html This pneumatic potato gun is easy to build and fun to have around. We use ours at Easter time to launch Easter eggs, but you can load it with anything that'll fit in the barrel including water. Just be careful, rocks and golf balls could kill someone.

Assuming your anvil is permanently located somewhere you could smear black grease around the areas that someone would use to lift it as well as on the chain. Imagine trying to pickup something heavy that's now slippery and will get all over their hands & clothes making them easier to identify if the police stop them. Good ideas so far with the wildlife camera, motion detected lights and having your name engraved on the bottom of it.

Here's a good link on doing an anvil restoration. Based on the pictures you provided I'd put them to use for at least a year and then decide whether you really need to invest the time and money into restoring them. As far as the sharp edges made an edge hardy and be done with it. In my case I have a piece of RR track mounted vertically that works well when I actually need a sharp edge. '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> When I got my first anvil over a year ago I wanted to repair the few divots & edges as well, but after putting her to use while it'd be nice I'd much rather spend time forging things vs. doing an anvil repair that's mostly cosmetic.

Welcome to the group. If you see a post vise at the auction at a reasonable price you probably want to pick it up. Review the information here and at anvilfire regarding old anvils if you haven't already done so. You can make a coal forge yourself and there's plenty of information here & online on how to do so.

I would assume there's a railyard not too far away or other industrial businesses that have heavy scrap steel. Do a little research and find a contact then send them a nice email explaining what you are doing and what you're looking for. Odds are they'll be happy to help out, worst they can say is no. If they say yes, bring some doughnuts & coffee to say thanks. When you do start making stuff don't forget to stop by occasionally to give them tokens of what you've made. This was how I got started using a piece of RR track mounted vertically and the workers there would pile up spikes and scrap that they thought I'd find useful. Even more important, look up your local ABANA group and become a member. If you're polite and show interest you'll well be on your way.

I'll be happy to try them out for you and let you know the results, just send them both down here to Texas.

As far as the age of the PW this thread may help you. http://www.iforgeiro...=+peter +wright

What about welding say 7018 to build up the horn? I know Bryan is choosing not to but could someone do that if they wanted or would you need to use a different type of welding rod because of the alloy?

Very nice find. I'm guessing a PW as well. As already said, I'd weld a piece of heavy sq. tubing to the back. As far as the age this thread may help you id it.

Why not make your own charcoal? I've planned on making a retort, which if you search the forum will find lots of plans for doing so but for now I just have a 55 gallon drum w/ 8 triangular holes cut into the bottom sides. After I get a good fire burning w/ small stuff I load it about half full with larger chunks and let that burn for 45-60 minutes. Then I cover the bottom holes w/ dirt and put a lid on the drum, next day I have charcoal. Not as good of a yield as what others get with the retort, but I live on a green belt w/ loads of available wood and this is easy to do. When using it I mix a little anthracite coal which helps keep down the volcanic action. I probably should change my fire grate to use small holes vs. 1/4" bars & slots but this has worked so far and I can get to FW'ing heat w/o a problem. I've also mixed industrial coke when available.

I like both of those and also enjoy making hardy tools from hammer bits.

no, found it on the other e-xxy