Dan C

Thanks for clarifying.

So when you change the amps on an arc welder because you're using a different size electrode or due to thickness of the metal, you're not affecting the heat except for variation in the length of the arc?

I've got to ask why would you want do this when there's better tools available? Out of interest a while back I built a carbon arc torch. I've found it useful occasionally for preheating but it's very difficult to control the size of the flame and hard to judge the temperature of what you're heating because you have to use at least shade 12 or higher. Apparently the brazing type of electrodes that would provide a more steady consistent burn are no longer available, only the gouging rods are available now. You should be able to adjust the amperage on your arc welder but it's still going to put out a flame similar to what you get when using a rosebud head while using OA.

Some tools quickly pay for themselves, an anvil is one of them. Money is tight but I wouldn't flinch at $500 for a good anvil cuz I know even as a hobbyist in a good 1-2 weeks I'd make it back.

I'm just surprised it doesn't have more negative reviews. HF advertises it using words such as heavy duty and stout. What a joke.

Welcome to the group, sorry to hear about your experience at HF. My suggestion for anything you buy from there is to always keep the receipt and packaging with the intent of returning it in 90 days for the smallest possible reason. And their extended warranty that they always try to sell you is a one shot thing meaning if you have to replace the first item you bought the warranty isn't good for the replacement item. I'm in a similar situation as you are as far as my hobbies have to support each other, rarely do I have money to waste. IFI is invaluable for researching anything you plan on purchasing and the subject of anvils has come up countless times. You don't need a London pattern to begin with, my first anvil was a piece of free RR track mounted vertically and the proceeds from what I made on it eventually bought the anvil I use now.

Ask 5 blacksmiths the same question you'll probably get 5 different answers that work. I used a wire brush and boiled linseed oil on mine. The face of the anvil will cleanup just by putting to work. If your anvil face is rusting use it more often.

This thread should be useful to you. I used a squirrel cage blower for mine and hinged it. Go to the link and you'll see what I mean. My brake drum forge is in the middle of what doubles as my welding table which allows larger pieces and you can pile up fuel. '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>>

To make this one just useable would you line it with refractory cement or a mixture of kitty liter that's been discussed here before? My homemade forge from a brakedrum is lined w/ refractory cement which was the only thing I spent money on. I can see why they would want to brace it with a plate underneath though I'd have welded it and then kept an eye on the area.

If you were local I'd gladly pay you what you paid for it. Welding cast iron isn't that difficult, the cost of a box of Hobart Nomacast rods is under $20, should take 1-2 rods, be sure to preheat and then cool slowly. I've seen forges with blowers like that listed down here for ridiculous money, $2-300. I don't know if they sold or not but would guess it'd fetch more than what you paid. For someone who doesn't work with large stuff and likes to fix things it'll sell.

Reminds me of when you go to a flea market and find things that cost more there than in a b&m store with a warranty. Buyer beware, know the value of what you want to buy beforehand.

Both openers are amazing Fatfudd. What type of stock do you use for the chiles?

You could easily pay for your trip to Ohio in Sept. by buying anvils and other blacksmithing tools and then reselling them down here at a reasonable price.

Unfortunately what I've seen here in Central Texas is it's a sellers market and blacksmith related things on CL typically sell fast here even when they're overpriced. I'll be curious as to how long this one lasts. Something to consider doing is looking out of state in other areas on craigslist where you maybe have relatives or friends who would be willing to check it out for you and somehow transport it. I lucked out because when a friend was moving his family down from Pittsburgh he offered to bring down an anvil for me if I found one. I ended up getting a 200 lb PW for $300, it was listed for $250 but I offered him a little extra if he held it until my friend could bring it down. Just for kicks search the Pittsburgh CL right now for anvil and you'll see what I mean. There's a beautiful 300# that looks practically mint for $500. Have you joined your local ABANA group? And while searching for your ideal anvil have you found a suitable chunk of steel that likely would work just as well?

I keep an unopened beer (which isn't a twist off) nearby which I can quickly test against after quenching the opener. I don't actually open the bottle, just verify that it's going to grab the cap properly.

Thomas, glad I wasn't the only one who took it that way. I didn't even read the questions after I read that. If it's not worth your time to even try and find the answers why should someone else respond.

You got quite the deal on that, both are very nice and should serve you well. I'd also wager that if you chose to do so the drill press would sell rather quickly at a higher price than what you paid for.

google 'peter wright anvilfire' that'll give you some reading material

I think I'm going to need a closer look, please send it here to me in Texas. I'll even pay for shipping! Don't leave us in such suspense, how'd you come by that beauty!?!

A coal forge and tool steel will teach you real fast not to get distracted. Multiple times I've gotten distracted to respond to someone's email usually regarding when they can stop by to pick something up to realize I just burned what I was making.

Forget cleaning that beauty! What that anvil needs is to be put to work right away before she gets bored and wanders down here to Texas.

If you can get some old files you can forge weld in a piece for the cutting edge. Just remember how you heat treat will be different compared to HT'ing a RR spike. You'll want to quench in oil vs. ice water and temper for a straw color vs. only tempering for stress relief. RR spike knives are fun and they sell well because they're a novelty.

I mix anthracite with homemade charcoal. My air grate is made of 1/4" square so more designed for coal than charcoal. The anthracite seems to help with the air flow to keep the charcoal from turning into a small volcano, I still pile the charcoal higher than you would coal or coke. You can't make a beehive with it, or at least I haven't been able to.

These threads regarding making edge hardies from jackhammer bits should be of use to you. Forging something large like this you'll want someone to assist as a striker and always, always, always, only work it when it's hot. As soon as you've lost color or even before stop so you don't risk breaking the heel of your anvil.

An option to building an air-gate is to somehow divert the air flow. An added bonus to using a furnace blower like what I used is the speed is governed by the amount of resistance, the more resistance the harder it blows so when angled up high it blows less. I now use a Christmas tree foot switch so I can leave the angle unchanged and just turn it on or off.