Ian

Greetings all! After a rather protracted break (for me at least) I and my fellow partner in Blacksmithing crime Mr Sean Marshall, Esquire have decided it's time to go walk about. We're travelling to Australia on the 17th of May and will be there from the 17th of May until the 12th of July (although we're seriously considering hopping over to New Zealand for a week or so and coming back to Oz for the 12th, if there are any Kiwi's who read this and wouldn't mind us camping on their lawns....hint, hint) On the 12th of July we're going to be flying over to the good old U.S of A. That's right boys and girls, after talking about it for some time I'm finally going to hit the States and I'm bringing company. Consider it the friendliest of invasions... We have from the 12th of July until the 30th of August to get from Los Angeles all the way to New York and we really need YOUR help to make it happen. Once again we have a shoestring budget (which is a nice way of saying NO real budget at all except our credit cards) to try and do this. If you are a member of a Blacksmithing group or know someone who is and you'd be willing to put in a word for us or put us up (or should that be put up with us) PLEASE get in touch via the website. We're willing to do whatever we can for food and lodgings and we'd love to try and get to meet as many folks as we can from this site as we travel through the country. We'd also love to attend as many meetings of the Blacksmithing groups across the States as we can too so if you're a member of you're local chapter please start asking around now if anyone can assist us. I know we'll be blatantly relying on peoples good natures and charity for this trip but as everyone who read the first part of the world tour knows this is something I started a long time ago and then had to stop before I wanted to or considered the job done justice. Now there's a chance to come that much closer to chasing down a dream I think everyone here can appreciate. Please, if you can help us to make it happen! Ian

I would also be very hesitant to quote the burning down of buildings for the iron story as well. Would seem to be a heck of a waste of salvageable materials such as posts, lintels, shingles etc. If a building burnt down by accident then yes, I can see that as plausible but otherwise...hmm. Leaves are always a good demo for kids and you can stop part way through making one and explain how it can become an arrow, nail etc. What about tools like chisels, screwdrivers etc. Simple and fast. How about making a rivet? Then you can turn it into a mushroom, or maybe a snail? Even knives and forks and spoons are simple and pretty quick to make. The choices are nearly limitless Mainly have fun and try to make sure they do too...

Thanks guys The frog was entirely chisel cut out of a bit of 2 inch by 2 inch by 1/4 inch angle iron. Only bit of 'forging' per say was to flatten it out from 90 degree's. I didn't want to use any visible screws in any of the pieces apart from in the frogs eyes, but it's what I had available to mount them securely. All on public display at the Farm so they have to be as solidly fixed as possible. When I can I'll make the countersinks etc needed to clean them up. Glad you all like them though. Beth, there's another post regarding my injury floating about, it's not pretty though! Nearly took off my right thumb... It's getting better though :)

Well, the Dr's said I needed to start stretching the repaired tendons a bit so I have. Suffering for it, but it's the best cause I can think of to suffer for. Hope you enjoy, comments as always most welcome. IAN

Thank you everyone, I'm chuffed you all like it :)

I made this as a one off for a favourite client. It's loosely based on a salmon. Made using 2 inch angle iron, carved and forged. With the addition of pipe bells that hang between the ribs it becomes a wind chime. Measures about 18 inches long. Comments welcome as always

That'll be a tube wedge. Using tube or pipe instead of a traditional triangular wedge is more popular for some reason these days. I believe the theory behind it is that a piece of pipe forces the wood in the eye out in all directions as opposed to just two. It supposedly makes a more secure fixing. I have both types of wedges in my hammers, my Swedish hammer has a round tube wedge, my old farriers turning hammer has a triangular wedge. IMO if the traditional wedge is done right there's no reason the head should be any less secure than using a bit of tubing.

I may be wrong, but my understanding is that "Pein" is the English spelling and that "Peen" is the American spelling. That said I've also seen "Pane" in some of the older texts Either spelling will do, we all know what you mean. :D

It took me a fair while to read through this thread but I'm glad I did because there's a couple of things I can add. Whether or not they're of value will be debated I'm sure. Regarding the dumbel comments, or adding weight to the back of a hammer. It's been done already. Glenn Moon (MOONY) told me that in his days as an apprentice he saw some of the older Smiths at his company (BHP Australia) using long handled hammers that had holes bored into the shafts at the base, these were filled with lead rods that were beaten in so they didn't come out. They were mainly used as planishing hammers I believe, held mainly with the thumb and forefinger about halfway up the shaft and 'rocked' up and down to strike. No twirling batons, these were used over a full 8 hour day with a lot less fatigue placed on the smiths forearms and wrists. You can ask him to explain in more detail. I use a similar grip for my own swing, the fingers I use to hold my hammer are my index finger and my thumb, in a sort of divers 'ok' gesture. I allow the weight of the hammer head to tip the remaininder of the shaft back into the three 'open' fingers of my hand. When I lift the hammer to it's heighest point the butt of the hammer is almost vertical, my down swing comes from my toes. There's a slight twist of my torso (as when you throw a good punch)then my shoulder rotates then my elbow and at the last second I close my hand and flex my wrist so the hammer head whips through. At point of impact my grip loosens back to the divers ok, with my other fingers 'just' holding the hammer to control it so I get the rebound. That final whip does add a fair amount of additional force. I developed that swing from watching a LOT of smiths and seeing what seemed to work and what didn't. I don't lay claim to have discovered the 'best' swing as some do, just a swing that works when it comes to hitting hard without working hard. I show students my swing by using a piece of thick plywood and a ball pein. how deep the mark is with just using the wrist, just the elbow, just the shoulder, then elbow and wrist, then shoulder, elbow and wrist and then finally my way. All the swings at as close to the same speed as I can. I show them the dents in the wood. My way is the deepest dent. After that I try to guide them but finally I'll let them find their own swing as long as it's not going to blow them out

Hey Owen, how's things? That old swage block of yours is still getting plenty of use I should have been a bit clearer with my reference to the Royal Armouries, I meant google them and check the site to see if there was a way of contacting one of the curators. Their armourer was a fellow called Andrew Bodley, but I think he's moved on, he did post on here a long while ago so might be contactable. I know from talking with a few of the european sword makers that getting your hands on an original is the only real way to see how the different geometries work. Most of them took micrometers with them when they got a chance :)

I get the same problem with the skin on my fingers cracking. Not just in winter though I've found that a good barrier cream and then something like Norwegian Formula or E45 after the days work helps slow down the problem, or stops it from starting. I'd guess a lot of 'us' have hands like rhinocerous hide, but it's possible to keep the skin supple, even if it is thick :)

I'd take a ride out to your local auto wreckers and pull the air con (hot/cold air blower) fan out of a car. Run it from a battery or battery charger. If you're lucky or patient enough you can take the switch gear from inside the car wiring loom to have additional control (three or more speed settings) and you can take some of the ducting too. I've used these 12v blowers before and they work well. Just my 2 cents worth

When you make the next one try making the edge more convex than straight. It'll make it easier for you to get it to bite initially and roll your stock as you cut. Take a look at some of Brian Brazeals tools to see what I mean. Briliant first effort though. Kudos!

They're based in Ironbridge I believe, I met Chris Topp there a few years ago at a BABA convention. He seemed a decent enough Bloke when I spoke to him and knows a lot about wrought iron, good Smith too. IF you can't get hold of any wrought from your side of the pond then he's well worth a phone call IMO

Stunner John, really is a beautiful bit of work. Have you got the furniture put on it yet?

you might try the Royal Amouries in leeds? They have a website you can google

I started by tipping my melting furnace (I was making silver and gold jewelery) on its side and putting in a bit of railway tie rod/clmap. Beat it against a four foot length of railway tie with a ball pein hammer and a pair of mole grips. Now five or so years have gone by, I've travelled to a lot of places all over the globe, met some amazing guys, learned a few tricks and I have my own forge in London thats just starting to take off.

Well said John

gets more interesting at 1m 35secs at very funny shortly thereafter. These lads are complete 'planks'!

There's a few ways I can think of forging a Thor's hammer (Mjollnir) pendent. You could do it in the same way as making a nail until the point where you'd upset the nail head. You'd have to keep one side of head equal in thickness to the shaft of the nail as you upset it. Or you could split the end of the nail instead of upsetting it and forge it out into the T shape. Just curl the other end into a small loop for the thong, chain, etc to go through.

Anyone ever used rock/concrete breaker bars? I've got two of them about an inch to inch and a half round bar by about 5 foot long. I've already attacked one of them, cut the round point off one end and the curved tapered flat off the other. Bit of forging and welding and I've got a Round punch and slitting chisel for my flypress. Also cut two 3 inch sections and fabbed up a fuller tool for it too. I inherited them so no idea how much new ones cost but they're two nice lumps of tool steel that'll produce quite a few tools

I'm on the wrong side of the pond to be of much help, but I've heard the ratio of 1 to 2 dollars per pound in weight used by a few of the American chaps before when talking about pricing up anvils. I think thats for scrap value so an anvil in good nick will likely be more. As to weight I'd hazard a guess that the anvil in the picture is 'around' the 1 1/2cwt mark at best(128lb to 1 cwt) probably nearer 1 1/4. At the end of the day it's worth what you're willing to pay for it, but I wouldn't rush in, buyer beware and all that eh?

I work just across the road from St Dunstan's Church in Stepney Green, London :D