tompdw

I built it as a hunting knife. I am going to suprise the forman of the scrap yard where I get my steel. He usually cuts me a deal and keeps asking about my projects. I think the coil springs are probably 1095. I haven't tried working with a coil spring yet.

This is a great piece of work. I sure have a lot to learn.

Somebody looks like they're ready for the next ice age. Cool toy.

This is my latest. The handle is black walnut. I had to reshape the tip. It started to curve up too much for what I wanted so I cut it off.

Thanks, I always wanted to visit Texas. I have a friend of mine from Lubbock/ Dalhart area

I am a full time doughnut eating, coffee drinking public servant who wears a blue monkey suit. I'll let you guys figure it out.

Try Grizzly.com

Where do you get mammoth tusk? To they farm raise them in Germany? Nice job.

Not only is the blade work beautiful but I really like the bone and brass set up. I think I will go shopping at the meat store.

I just want to thin the edge down a little bit. I am not ready to beat the whole thing down yet. I am just going to start it then grind. As far as normalizing. When I am done for the day I will shut my propane forge down and place my blank in the forge overnight so I will cool slowly. I know I won't get all of the pits out but that's what happens with scrapyard steel. thanks everyone for the tips.

How did you cut it? Bandsaw? Plasma?

I have no bevel on the blade at all. I was planning on just starting the bevel and then cleaning it up on the grinder. I oil quench and then stick it in my toaster oven. I haven't tried the temperature crayons yet.

I don't mind a bit. I know very little because I'm just starting. I appreciate any tip or helpful suggestion that comes my way. I am using a 3# drilling hammer. What you see is pits not necessarily rounded hammer blows. I used a rusty leaf spring.

This is something I am working on. I pounded it into rough shape and then cleaned it up on the grinder. I have to smooth out the pits and I need to hammer in the edge bevel.

They were stock removal. I just bought my forge and anvil about 2 weeks ago.

My knife is about 13-14 in overall, the blade is about 9 in. The knife started as a 1/4 in leaf spring. As far as mounting the handle, I drilled the tang (full) with 2 1/8 in holes and then cut a welding rod into little pins and rounded them off. The pins don't go through but there are hidden and then the whole thing is epoxied in place overnight and then shaped and sealed over night. There is no stain on the wood, Just clear urethane. I think it is cherry wood. I thought it would stand out. I am working on another knife. Any other questions guys?

I made this from a truck leaf spring

skateboard tape

Very nice job. What kind of steel is it?

These are made from leaf springs before I had my anvil and forge.

I hope this comes out. I'm not very computer literate.

Hard facing is for things that take a lot of abuse and needs a high shock and abrasion resistance. I would be useful if you were repairing something like a plow blade or a farm impliment. It is commonly laid on top of hard face build up. Does this help any?

My phone doesn't have a cmaera. I will probably bring some things to work. We have a digital camera there. PS I've been to Oahu back in '91 What a great time.

what did you use for a mandrel to wrap the blade around? I would like to make one but I need to get/make a mandrel.

Why do we park on a driveway and drive on a parkway? My blades were from a file and a leaf spring. I broke one and I have to temper the second. I am working on another with the other half of the leaf spring.