tompdw
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Everything posted by tompdw
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These are a couple of hawks that I have been working on recently. They aren't done yet. Hopefully I will get them in the next couple of days. They are leaf springs.
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I was told when in doubt use oil. The few times I've quenched in water I got cracks when I was using high carbon steel. I use used diesel motor oil.
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Sorry about that. Parachute cord. It's about 5/16 thick. He's on his own for a sheath. I am out of leather.
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I don't know if my forge will get that hot. I will take a piece of steel and see what color I could get. I have a fuel valve for my forge and an air restrictor. Forgemaster blacksmith model.
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I am attempting to forge a tomahawk from 1095 leaf spring. I heated the steel and wrapped it around a 1" round bar for the eye. I don't wish to use my arc welder to weld it. I hope to forge weld it. How difficult is it to forge weld high carbon steel. Other than some borax what do I need to do? What color does me steel need to be? What can I put in my propane forge to keep the borax from eating my lining? This would be my first forge welding attempt.
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This is my latest. I made it for a friend who provided the idea. 1095 steel.
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As long as I don't bring home any new tool bigger than a small screwdriver I should be ok.
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John, You just lost me. I am not a welder but I do it as a hobby. I have an AC/DC Hobart stick and a Hobart mig. I have no idea what you are tlaking about when you talk about magnetized structures and arc blow. Could you please enlighten the uninformed? Thanks.
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I use 75% argon 25% CO2 and sometimes 80%-20% for my mig. I don't have a Tig. I hear that 100%CO2 will give you deeper penetration for mig welding.
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I have the lawn chair. One out of two isn't bad. But it is pay day....
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Is anyone going to the Hammer in at Burton, OH this Sat? It will be my first one. Do I need to bring anything?
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Here they are. They are crude and rough but I know what needs done on the next ones.
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Well gentlemen, I made a couple of punches. My full sized one is from a 1" bar stock that I sized with my milling machine. If I am going to cheat then I must tell you. After my first attempt on a spike I put my second one in my mill and cut a 1/4 in slot a little longer than what I need for the handle.
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What is TSP?
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I bought a beef bone from the butcher and wish to use it for a handle. could anyone tell me what I need to do to get from still having meat on it to ready to mount on my tang?
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I punched it with an undersized round punch first and then followed up with a chisel like punch that is about the same size as my handle. My steel is regular round stock from the junkyard (low carbon) I did make sure the punch was smooth and I dipped my second punch in some moly grease. It helped.
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Punching I guess, I'm a newbe. I don't have coal dust. I use a propane forge.
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I was drifting a hole in a RR spike and my punch kept getting stuck. Is there any trick to keeping the punch from sticking in the hole? I am making a tomahawk. Here is some pictures of my first hawk. Crude but the tips helped. Thank you gentlemen. I'm not done with this one but I know how to improve on the next one.
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Do you know what kind of steel you are using?
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You found a friendly place to visit. I am relatively new here myself. Good to have you.
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Most important tools in the shop
tompdw replied to philip in china's topic in Tools, general discussion
Don't forget band saw and air compressor( not just for smithing) -
What is a good steel for the drifts?
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Gentlemen, thank you for the insights. I'm not sure if I will use a block of common steel and punch it or get a ball peen hammer. When I figure out what I will do there will be pictures.
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What kind of steel are you using? I noticed you had to make a special hardy cutter for your anvil because of the hole.
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I am considering making a tomahawk or hatchet. I don't have a mandrel for the handle hole. does anyone have any helpful hints on how to build a mandrel or tomahawk? What kind of steel do I need?