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I Forge Iron

petere76

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Everything posted by petere76

  1. NG, In the beginning, tools are are function of need. Specifically a set hammer is important to get into tight corners without making the rest of the area with hammer blows. Larger flatters, are use to smooth work and establish flat planes. Check out some of the work of old English smiths, you can't tell it was hammered, looks like it grew that way if you will. They achieve this look with a constant planisfimg action at low temps and the prudent use of flatter, I.e set tooling. As you progress through learning you will see the Ned for tooling that supports your style. In the beginning get good with hammer and anvil. Use all the surfaces available to you as you learn to move iron. Muscle memory, coordination and your eye will guide you. Good luck to you in all your pursuits. Peter
  2. Ivan, I support the NEBA, but my job keeps me offshore or overseas a lot of the time. A travel plan dictated by employment as opposed to choice. I have visited smiths in Japan, Okinawa and the PI and marveled at their efforts and product. The experience has been one I cherish because, " good ideas are truly where you find them" . A concept you obviously embrace. As to odd, I not always distracted by the obvious, it's the latent talent that I seek. The method to the madness if you will, the talent and resousefullness of a smith can be seen in his work and may actually be belied by the look of the individual. Not many of us are studio material although my tats are mostly scars as opposed to art work. All the best in your travels my friend. Stay in touch with us. Peter
  3. Ivan, I'm envious of the freedom you showcase. Good for you to travel and stay with smiths, a great adventure for sure. Thanks for sharing your travels with us. Peter
  4. Charles, Thanks for the input. I might shop for a larger shop anvil. I have 4 anvils now, 2 PWs an American and a hey Buden. . The are all portable and come in around 150 lbs or less. I was lookimg at a nimba a or a pendinghaus. 2k isn't exactly a deal right now.
  5. Gents, At one point there was a Hofi designed anvil under development. Looked similar to a German pattern. Ever heard if the line was produced? Peter
  6. Stormcrow, Congratulations on the backlog of work. Nothing says good work like product demand. Peter
  7. I real marvel at the off center tongs by Grant. He was a class act. Peter
  8. At some point you realize you have more yesterday's than tomorrow's. Seize the moment and try to make a difference in some way. Remember that all men have a time and every time has its season. Happy thanksgiving, my friends. Peter
  9. The Ironworker has the capacity. Not sure if you need to do in the shop or in place. Peter
  10. Ronin, Did you buy the rolling mill or build it? I was thinking of building one but I've only seen the HD manufactured variety. Peter
  11. Michael, To quote a mentor, " what is the most expensive commodity in many of our lives? Ans. Free Time. " it proved to be very true. In my business, I generally put in fourteen hour days as a norm. Today's formula is essentially built around greater output with fewer people. Peter
  12. I would like to build a hydraulic press. I like mr. Gearhrart's model and I like the vertical single ram system made by black bear forge. They both seem straightforward and the folks that have them seem to be satisfied. It just takes money and time and more times than not one of the two is in short supply. I saw a hyd press at the NESM facility several years back. It was a big dollar investment but frankly the welding and fit on the components was less than desirable. It worked ok and it had a fancy paint job but it wasn't worth the price. Peter
  13. Amazing joiner descriptions. I'm challenged by square end framing, the guys doing that work were skilled beyond belief. Thanks for sharing the find. Peter
  14. Jammer, Bees wax and linseed oil. When these things get rusty from being outside, I advise the owners to scrub off the rust, coat with any veg oil and bake off in the oven. As you say, just like a cast iron pan. Note that if your customers are using these on camp fires vs. gas grills they have to be a tad longer so you don't get singed. I make this model about 22" +/-. Peter
  15. Gents, A client recently ordered several steak flippers and hooks as gifts. Turners are .375 sq. stock, Shepard's crook handle, 22 in length, oil finish. Hooks are ball style .375 in also hot oil finished. Order early and ship early. Peter
  16. Don't you guys have guns, seems so much easier to me. Many places in the world do not have any right to bear arms.
  17. Thomas, Good chuckle when you said " renowned master or clueless twit", I have always thought the class twits were in government, never thought they pounded iron. Thanks for the laugh. Peter
  18. Jay, Sorry for the late response, I had a job in the shop to get out for shipping. The mix I use is linseed oil (boiled) .40% bees wax .40% and turpentine .20%. Heat it up gently and let it all go into solution. It will set up as a paste and store well covered in a coffee can or other container. Apply on warm metal , let dry, repeat and buff out with a rag. Keep going till you get the look you want. In regard the swage blocks to establish those offsets. I included a few pics so you can see several I use for grills. Ours are just welded but note the height differential so as to accommodate different stock thicknesses. Also the ones depicted are for the power hammer but you can weld up a hardy adapter to work on your anvil. Note the radius corners as to not mar the work. One more note. Blacksmithing as a trade was almost finished when I was in college (70s). I learned almost as much from books as I have from individuals. Build your own library of books from the masters. I was given Francis Whitakers book "The Blacksmiths Craft" by one of his students who has since become a very talented blacksmith in Maine. Its an excellent reference and a greater starter for your library. Mark Aspery's the Skills of a Blacksmith I, II, III are excellent and well worth the investment. The old Anvils Ring periodicals are a good source of information as are the news lettered from the various ABANA affiliates. Photos attached. Forge on my friend and all the best, Peter
  19. Jay, An easy way to pre bend the joint is a swage tool. File or forge the cross intersection, width of the upright plus the offset. To start double the stock thickness and add that to the the width. Now you have block across which you can sink the stock to the correct offset. Round the edges, so there are no shunts. When you make tooling, you get a reliable outcome each time. The cross style intersection is a popular technique for grills and other applications. As you grow into this trade your tooling becomes an investment that saves you time and gives you a consistent product. In manufacturing they call this repeatability. In regard finish. The natural mix is linseed oil (boiled), bees wax and turpentine. Apply to iron when it's hot but not showing color. Buff to a matt finish. The quick and dirty is a burned oil finish. Dip hot iron into your oil mix (we use hydraulic fluid), wipe to get a consistent look. Note, this smokes and it's not healthy to breath, do it outside and wear a suitable respirator. Good luck, Peter
  20. Try an offset lap joint and rivet the center. Heat the cross piece and set it over the upright. Use a set hammer to make it straight. Works good because the cross piece is locked in place and the piece lies flat. Peter
  21. Jazz, Very nice designs, intricate and attractive. Have you found a market in NYC for your work. I'm always on the lookout for a blacksmith's shop in the city. Is your shop in the city or the outer boroughs? I grew up in NYC and NJ. I suspect my addiction to ironwork was sparked by the many gates and grills found around the city. To this day I am drawn to the intricacy of the ironwork i see in cities around the world. The grill work on some of the old apartment buildings in the city is inspiring. Best of luck to you, Peter
  22. Fit the handle as you normally would, wedge and them soak the finished head in anti freeze. Handles that I use this technique on go for years without ever loosening up. Soak the head upside down in a shallow pan and add enough liquid to cover the head. I leave them to set overnight and they are good to go in the morning. Peter
  23. Bill, Consider a pressurized air forge. The heating is more uniform. The effectiveness of the forced air forge vs the natural aspiration design is far better. The knife foks can likely offer more specific opinions on the various designs pros and cons. Peter
  24. Greed vs function. You make the call. Wasn't it, Francis Whittaker who said, "I have always done my work on a 150 lb anvil and it worked for me". I don't belive a ware house full of equipment makes one any better at the end of the day. Peter
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