jjinatx

I've had the HF 110# anvil for a few years and it works fine. Needs a LOT of dressing on the horn. Our club made a couple of group buys of these and several club members use them and like them. Most have kept them even after upgrading to their dream anvil as a secondary or traveling anvil. I found a pretty good review article about the anvil and also about dressing it,but can't find the link to it. Probably on my other computer. If I find it, I'll update the post. -jj

Hey M, Congrats. I've had the same unit for about 4 months. My 1st forge. Works good, but I haven't tried forge welding with it yet. Only problem I had was the small strip of insulation above each opening breaking and falling down.I replaced both pieces with a piece of kaowool (rigidized) and all is well. -jj

Drone, Great job! -jj

Looper, Good talking to you on the phone. Thanks for answering all my questions and the other tips. Nice to work with a company so responsive to customers. -jj

I just bought a Diamondback 2 burner Knifemaker forge off eBay. This was not purchased from the manufacturer, but rather an individual was selling it "as new". The forge had never been used or even put together and was still in its original packaging. Everything was included as from the factory. It went together real easy and looks like it is built pretty well. The manual is a bit sketchy though. About the only thing it covers about the burners is how to light them and not a whole lot more. I haven't ever used an atmospheric forge before, so not sure how to tell when I get the flame right with the right gas flow and pressure. Following the lighting instructions (5 to 7 psi, needle valve slightly open), I get about an 8 to 10 inch blue flame coming out each end opening and rising up sharply as soon as it is lit and I crank the needle valve all the way open (per instructions). Raising the pressure and lowering the flow will change the dragon's breath to yellow orange and the also seems to shorten it to 3 or 4 inches. Looking in the end of the forge, it looks yellow-orange with blue flames coming out of the burners. This looks pretty much like all the pictures I've seen of a running atmospheric forge. By adjusting the flow, I can change the length of the blue flame (I can get it to extend all the way down to the forge floor.) Stuck a 1/2" round bar in it and it seemed to heat up fairly quickly (but I'm used to the natural gas, blown, monster forge at school.) I haven't tried blocking off the far end of the forge or reducing the working end opening yet. So, my questions are: what do I adjust first - flow or pressure? how much dragon's breath is normal or acceptable? how do you reduce it? should the blue flame out of the burners touch the work? (oxidation?) I'll probably have more questions later. I would appreciate any tips any of you have, especially from other Diamonback forge owners. -jj

Just getting started in blacksmithing. I've taken a few classes in art welding and one on blacksmithing at Austin Community College. I'm a new member of ABANA and Balcones Forge in Austin. Here's a link to Sybil, my first piece of "artwork". Mostly gas welding but I was introduced to forging when the Art Welding instructor showed me how to taper and fuller the legs. That's when I was bit by the blacksmithing bug. I'll post my first question about fine tuning a Diamondback Forge Knifemaker 2 burner forge as soon as I figure out where to post it. -jj