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I Forge Iron

jmhlsy

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  1. Thanks guys for all the help. I will certainly get more pics and of it burning. Does the regulator have to be adjustable? I have a 30psi reg and good needle valve.
  2. So, how do you think the forge would act if I angled the burner entry point? In my mind, if it were to enter the square forge at an angle there would still be a swirling action despite the corners. There may be a vortex in the corner, but would still be better right? Moving the burner is no big deal.
  3. Ok, hopefully that works better. The hose will never be like that when burning. I just didn't want it dangling. I was going to pass the hose through another pipe, I just didn't include it in pic. As for the base, its no lightweight. I'm guessing 60-70#. What you cant see is the whole carrier still connected. That is not just the ring gear flange. No tipping hazard there. As with this type design, apparently, there will be a "hot spot". How do you deal with it? Seems so many forges these days have a vertical injection. Do you just move the metal around a couple times? I am most interested in knife forging. Should the burner come in at an angle? I am a total newborn to this, so please forgive me for my ignorance. Thank you for your time. Jason
  4. OK, here is my first forge. The box is made of 3/16" plate. Inside measures 4" wide, 4-1/2" tall and 12" deep when measured through back door. Back door opening is only 2-1/4 tall, arched. Lined with 2600 degree 2-1/2" SFB, then SFB mortar, then Metricote (not in pic). Burner is standard 3/4" side arm burner, mig tip. For the flare I used a 304 SS concentric weld reducer 1" x 1-1'4. The base is made of Dana 60 and GM14 bolt parts, ie heavy. Have not fired her up yet, hopefully this weekend. What do you guys think? Be honest. I learn from my mistakes$$$. I am hoping to use this for knife making mainly. Will it work? Thanks for any input or advice.
  5. Frosty, does one type of stainless work better for the floor liner?
  6. I am sure it has been told somewhere on here, but have not found it. I am building a small forge from soft firebrick encased with 3/16 plate. I was planning on lining the whole inside with SFB mortor and then coating whole inside with metricote, (thanks Wayne). Is lining it with mortor a bad idea? Or maybe just the floor? The thing I was thinking is it will be impossible to replace just one brick if I needed. What's your thoughts. Is what I planning resistant to borax? Thanks for the insight. Jason
  7. No response from zoeller yet. I think I will just go with a "Y" I can get than at the box store. Are there any performance differences? Also, how far is the mig tip suppose to stick down in the fitting?
  8. Thanks, might have to do that but was trying to source locally. Of course that's not looking good.
  9. I am in process of first forge build. Only part I can not source is the Ward 1-1/4 x 3/4 x 1-1/4 reducing tee. I checked with local industrial pipe supply and plumbing supply house, neither had or could get. Where is this part available? I have seen a few online but none look very smooth in transition like the ones on Zoller. Thanks
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