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I Forge Iron

billyO

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Everything posted by billyO

  1. Fair enough, after the explanation. This shows, what I see is a major problem with what I see as our over-litigious society, and that is finding the balance between having to assume that someone is an idiot so you don't get sued, and giving them credit for having a brain. Personally, I would much rather have people not treat me like an idiot, and realize that failure is a part of life, and my only fault would be not to learn from the failure.
  2. I'd be willing to bet that someone with Owen's experience doesn't need to be asked that question.
  3. Very nice, love your variations...consider these pics saved for future reference. (you haven't copyrighted the pattern, have you?) I will agree with Owen on kitchen knife use. All I use in the kitchen are my own damascus and san mai blades. With care and occasional maintenance (coffee bath works for me) the pattern stays bold.
  4. What did Neddy write that gave you the idea that he was going to harden this with heat treatment? If you read his post carefully, he explicitly says : I read his original post to say something like: I think brass looks cool and want to practice shaping grinding before attempting this on a good piece of steel. Neddy: I say go for it. Many smiths and blade makers will suggest practicing forging and grinding on mild steel to prevent wasting a 'good' piece of steel. Post pics as I'd like to see what you come up with.
  5. Glad you enjoyed it. At the Board meeting this past weekend, there was talk to see if it can be uploaded on Youtube as well. If it does, I'll post that link as well.
  6. Hello all. I hope the summer (winter for those of you south of the equator) is treating y'all well. I just thought I'd share a new video that the NWBA made for their 40th Anniversary this year. Enjoy
  7. I wish you luck and my thoughts/prayers are with you these next few days.
  8. $300 for a 124# anvil in that condition???? You did WAY better than OK, my friend. If you don't think so, I'll give you $500 for it and you can have a $200 profit.
  9. Update on the cold work: Spent a couple hours yesterday trying to sink/raise the 0.050 sheet, and started to get some movement after moving up to my 3# hammer...time to move to hot work (and while I'm at it, the 30 ton press)
  10. Гарний візерунок. (beautiful pattern) Дякую, що поділились! (thanks for sharing) Який розмір молота це? (what size hammer is that?)
  11. I was going to suggest a micrometer, but then I thought of Andrew Wygers book and the skill it takes to use a file to get perfectly parallel sides...and not sure if the 4 decimal places of the micrometer is accurate enough..... But I bet you're right regarding the OU engineering student!
  12. Looks good for a 4th, Rojo. Then why did you stop? I always wonder when I read this..... I'm curious about the wooden plugs that look like are in the handle. Good job fitting them.
  13. You've been doing some pretty interesting things with 3d printing these past couple of years, Theo. Out of curiosity, have you done any serious destruction testing to see how well these interlocking and epoxied guards hold up? Let's not forget, our knives will probably outlive all of us and we can't dictate how they are used in the future. Which is partly why I focus my efforts on kitchen knives.
  14. Nothing. But the prior mention of Aluminium's possible contribution to Alzheimer's makes it relevant and I was thinking that your comment: was referring to that. I also have some 0.050" grade 2 CP plate available as well to use
  15. I was told by another smith I know and trust (possibly incorrectly, I realize) who forges mainly titanium and he said: "if it is pure titanium or a low ally titanium like 6al4v, it should be fine to cold work. It could be easier if the titanium is heated up with a blowtorch or heat source. I think pure titanium would be the easiest/best." Thomas, are you saying that the Al content would be dangerous, that it would difficult to work or, If it's the possible dangers of using Al for eating utensils, then I also have some 0.050" grade 2 CP plate. If it's the difficulty working, I guess I'll find out the diffrerence in the CP and 6al4v If it the reports of flu-like s/s, this is the first time I'm hearing of this.
  16. Got some 0.071" titanium plate on the way, I'll post results....
  17. Good point! Thanks for pointing that out. What thickness would you recommend? I can pretty easily get some 6al4v in .026", .050" and .071". Also, what temp would you recommend working it? Thanks
  18. Thanks all. I apologize, I guess a little more info would be helpful.... Our organization (the NWBA) has some members who have decided to provide the food for our annual conferences (pig roast, gumbo, breakfast, etc...) and I decided that I don't want to use the provided paper plates or plastic forks, so I want to make one bowl, plate, fork and spoon. I already have a damascus butter knife. I also heard rumor that there may be a competition at our October conference for the best set to encourage others to bring their own. Regarding the desire to polish after each use, it's not necessarily something I want to do, but is something I'm willing to do because these are most likely going to be used only 2 weekends a year. If the initial fabrication isn't too much more labor intensive. In other words, if using copper makes the initial dishing significantly easier, then I'm willing to tin and then polish. But if all I need to do is form the plate using sheet aluminum, then maybe that's what I'll do. Can you cold work titanium?
  19. Hello all. I hope the last couple of years have been better for you all. I'm wanting to dish out a bowl and plate to eat off of and am wondering if you'd share your opinions on pros/cons of my material choices. I'm thinking about going the traditional copper and then tinning the eating surface, but think that aluminum may be easier due to no need for tinning. Any other thoughts? Thanks, and have a great week.
  20. When doing my damascus, I use an angle grinder to remove most of the scale before cutting and stacking, only using the belt grinder to smooth out the pieces. I also do most of mine without flux. I use vinegar after my final forging of my damascus before grinding. It usually takes a day or so, however. Like templehound and Steve said, watering the anvil helps and staying on top of the scale with the wire brush as you forge helps a lot.
  21. Welcome Doc! Another suggestion I'll make is to check the date of any topic you reply to. For example, this topic was started almost 10 years ago, so those involved in the original conversation probably aren't paying attention anymore. Have fun!
  22. If you've been to any of the conferences in the last number of years, you probably know Bear, the picture under my name.... Hopefully I'll be able to make the 40th Anniversary Conference this May, if so, see you then.
  23. 5x5=25 x5=125 x5=625. makes sense to me. I'll agree that this many layers won't make a great damascus pattern, even if you were to use the typical 1080/15N20. I've found that when I get past ~300 layers, the pattern doesn't show up much. If you have any of the cable left, I'd just twist weld the cable into a billet, cut it into 2 pieces and then sandwich some 1080 or other tool steel for a san mai blade as mentioned above. You still probably won't get much of a dramatic pattern because the 1040 is like a mild steel and not enough nickle to shine. Here's a pic (not the best, sorry) of one I did with O1 core/15N20/mild steel on the top. Notice how the mild steel looks kinda muddy. This one is O1/15N20 I use 3 parts water to 1 part Ferric Chloride (PCB etchant from Radio Shack) You in Portland? Are you a member of the NWBA?
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