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I Forge Iron

njfarmer

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    Southampton Twnsp, New Jersey
  1. 150# with lugs but no date that I bought from you.
  2. Well in your situation I supposed you wont be able to adjust cutting width without altering the bar the 3 pt bottom arms go on. But since we are talking about it. On a horse drawn plow you would change this but moving where the plow is being drawn from on the hitch plate. On a tractor larger then a lawn tractor you would be able to adjust the bottom arms in or out via the sway arm links. You have a right turn plow. Simply meaning it turns the ground to the right. To adjust the cutting width you would simply adjust the plow further to the left (when looking at the rear of the tractor). As a rule of thumb you can cut 2-3 inches wider then the plow point and still do a nice job plowing. As far as the down turn of the point. I can really on speak of horse drawn plows. 1/8-3/16 is the acceptable difference from flush. Never really paid much attention on our tractor plows. Being that you are in heavier soil it is vital to scour the point and moldboard well. You would be surprised how easily dirt will stick to it. As a side note. When you get to plowing the idea is to plow half as deep as your plow is wide. As far as hardening im not to sure. The old points were soft in the middle with harder steel on top and bottom for wear. When they were sharpened on the anvil not much was heated at once to preserve the points toughness and hardness. Old school of thought was to keep hammering from a red heat all the way to a black heat to preserve these characteristics. According to Lynn Miller's Horsedrawn Plows and Plowing solid steel shares of the time were not tempered. Hope this helps!
  3. Well its a little late to tell you this but you could have just adjusted the 3 pt hitch arms on your tractor to get it to successfully cut the 9 inches. It would have taken some adjustment in the field but it can be done. That being said you did a fine job on the point. I had thought that was the one you replaced! Just remember to make sure the point sticks down a bit and is not flush with the bottom of the landside. This will help with the "suction" that keeps the plow into the ground. My only other suggestion would be to make sure u scour the moldboard with a wire wheel prior to use. It doesnt have to be shiny but you want the rust off it. Also clean up the welds on your additions so they dont catch soil and prevent a nice turning of the soil. Good luck with the hardening. It is said the best plow parts for sandy soils were the old chilled plow parts.
  4. I may be missing something in the picture but theybway it looks you welded your new point on the wrong side of the moldboard. The point should be pointing towards the coulter near the hitch. What shape is the landeside in?
  5. I am still new to all this but I bet you hammer stuff with it! Haha
  6. Hey yall, I figured it was time to introduce myself. My name is Brian and im from southern NJ. I have basically no experience blacksmithing. My family operates a 500 acre fruit and vegetable farm. I have a few horses including a Belgian draft that I intend to do some farm work with. I recently got a really good deal on a champion forge with electric blower a set of tongs a metal work table with smaller post vice. Just bought a 150 lb Fisher from my old highschool metal shop teacher. Planning on putting up a small 12x16 ft pole barn to house the shop. This forum is excellent! It is jam packed with great advice for us beginners. Joined the NJBA last week and look forward to going to my first open forge this coming monday! Contemplating taking a class at either Peters Valley or the New England Metalworks schools. Right now just looking to get the techniques down and do some basic forge works. Thanks for your time!
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