George Geist

Looks like a horseshoers anvil. Nice one. Be good to it and it'll be good to you.

George

On 7/13/2023 at 3:44 PM, jlpservicesinc said:

Sadly? I think this used to be the case. 

So many of the old examples in pristine shape have been plagued by new users with little regard for proper etiquette and slamming the hammer into the face. 

Amen to that

My first anvil was a Mankel. I bought it new in 1980 and shod a lot of horses with it for a lot of years. Being hollow it was light enough to be a good travel anvil. No complaints. It did everything I needed it to. Don't hesitate to buy one. They're good anvils.

It had clip horns on both sides which I guess made it ambidextrous for those who like to use the clip horn.

George

Looks like a mousehole to me

On 5/25/2022 at 3:08 AM, Gravydavy said:

Boy, this has gone sideways, and I have definitely contributed to it. Please let me try again:

One part of my question amounts to "How much could I sell it for on this forum?". (Note: I'm not looking to sell it, just trying to get an idea of what it's worth to help me decide how to proceed toward having the tools that work for me). Does $200-$300 seem reasonable? That would be my guess.

The other part was "If it's not worth much, and it's not rare, is there a good reason why I shouldn't mill/dress the top?) The universal response has amounted to "Don't you dare do that!" OK, I get that it's agreed that I shouldn't do that, but I'm still not sure why. On all kinds of machine tools it's normal maintenance to resurface working parts. To my mind, by definition the high spots are the parts that aren't being used, so why not skim them down a bit to even out the working surface in order to get more usable flat space, especially for work where surface finish is important? Maybe the question could be rephrased as "How thin is too thin, and how flat is flat enough? I'm leaning toward flatter, but I'm definitely open to other opinions, especially if backed up with solid reasoning.

With all due respect, most of the replies so far have run awfully close to "Because we've always done it this way" or "Don't question your elders". 

Contrary to some comments, I have by no means made up my mind. I won't do anything to the face until I am convinced it's a good idea. I am fully aware that I can't readily put the metal back on. On the other hand, if taking some bumps off and creating useful flat spots makes it work better for me, I'm willing to do that. Please, folks - don't just tell me "Don't do that!". Explain why it's a bad or good idea for the way I expect to use the anvil. Maybe I'm wrong, and it's rare or historically valuable. Maybe there is a history of the faces cracking after dressing. Maybe I'm just one of those annoying people who just has to understand why.

Anvils are not intended for thousanths of an inch tolerances. Thats not what blacksmithing is about. If thats what youre into Id suggest machinist work. Sharp edges tend to damage work. 

With the questions concerning value as if youre wanting to sell it....correct answer it it depends. The trade has had an influx of wealthy dilettantes lately that have inflated prices. Location can have a bearing on it but I can say with a good degree of certainty that if you take any angle grinder to it youll definitely knock the value down to zero.

Its a Hay Budden.

The BRO is the beginning of Brooklyn NY. A little talcum or baby powder will give you a better read.

Please keep grindstones and any other abrasives away from it!

George

Its a hind shoe. From a horse not a mule. Being as its made from wrought iron its definitely old. Id guess at least pre WWI.

George

100 to 150 lbs is ideal for most horse shoeing.

George

Has anybody thought of an old out of business gas station or auto repair shop?

In my part of the country they oftentimes have apartments over top of them too.

Something to think about?

To best of anybody's knowledge, is anybody out there manufacturing new blacksmith post leg vises?

George 

Hay Budden it is. Nice one too.

Best part is remembering where it came from. Congrats.

George 

8 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

I am on the fence about farrier licensing. Sure $100 trims and $300 showings would be nice but what I have seen with the two major certification bodies is a lot of “old school” non best practice techniques, and show politics. 
 

You talking about testing?

Certification and licensing are two totally separate issues.

Licensing would require laws being passed at least at the state level which isn't on any legislature's radar screen right now. I don't see it ever happening because nobody outside the industry cares, nor do most people in the industry. 

Certification would be a good thing if something could be done to create some kind of demand for it from the people paying the Bill's. It has its good and bad points.

On 3/21/2019 at 6:45 PM, Irondragon ForgeClay Works said:

One piece of advice I always give to someone just finishing High school and are trying to decide what to do as a career, is to join one of the military services (Navy or USCG are my favorites). You learn a lot not taught in any school about life and get benefits for continuing education when your term is up.

Just an FYI about the naval services,  to best of my knowledge the navy still has the rate of blacksmith. I believe most of them are assigned to the seabees.

Also check out the Boilermakers union. They represent not only forging shops but also railroad blacksmiths. City employee blacksmiths in NY, Chicago and elsewhere.  (100k jobs too) 

Try shipyards. Blacksmiths often work in shipyards.  When I had my website up I used to post on a bulletin board any and all blacksmith jobs. A lot more of them pop up than you think. Register on indeed.com they'll notify you.

George 

For those of you that have kids, latest benefit introduced by the Boilermakers is free college. Look into it folks, it's a good deal.

George 

I'm sure I'll run into you someplace. You ever need a striker don't hesitate to call on me.

Sounds great, wish I could have been there.  

Not really intending to talk about it but I'll mention it anyway. They cut colon cancer out of me. Now I'm having to deal with chemo every other week. Please everybody do yourselves and your families a favor, when your Dr tells you to go for a colonoscopy get your butts in there and do it. Don't be like me. 

Quite possibly the worst part of it all was missing out on that fun gathering. ☹

George 

Did anybody go to ABANA's deal at Johnstown?

I was in hospital and unable to attend.  If anybody went how was it? Please post and include any pictures you might have taken.

Thanks,

George 

2 minutes ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

The step ladder cum anvil stand might be a bit light..

Maybe a bit. I thought this guy was either a race plater or a cowboy. I'll go with the latter due to his lack of a stall jack and especially by the spur hanging on the tool box.

Yeah a more substantial stand would help but evidently it worked for him. 

George 

Although the car is '60s vintage, I'd date that photo at circa late '70s as evidenced by the mankel gas forge. 

Mankel was first ones introduced and the one pictured wasn't even atmospheric. It had an electric blower that needed to be plugged in.  Somewhere buried in back of my storage room I still have one like that. I believe by now it probably belongs in a museum.  Before those forges came out the only thing to use was coal.

Although it might not seem like it with the fancy Hollywood trucks guys drive today, this guy was right on the cutting edge for that time and place.

Most contemporary horseshoers anvils available new today are trash. That one pictured is a real honey. Any anvil makers out there take a good hard look. That anvil is everything a horseshoers anvil should be.

George 

Great idea. Power hammer dies probably best way to do it. I was also thinking a McDonald roller might work too.

On 12/29/2020 at 6:11 PM, jlpservicesinc said:

On 12/29/2020 at 6:11 PM, jlpservicesinc said:

 

The ABANA offices from what I understand are now moved to Johnstown PA..   That is where the conference is going to happen in 2021 and if you do get the anvils ring there was a flyer in there for the event. 

 

Just saw the nice write up you got in the latest issue of Anvils Ring. Congrats

George 

If you want brand new American made I'd say Emerson is probably one of the best contemporary anvils out there. They can be gotten through Emerson Horseshoe Supply of Bossier City LA.

Not taking anything away from Swedish or any of the classic anvil makers but I'd say Emerson is probably best choice for new made high quality and closest to your price range.

George 

Best wishes to JM Shrader on the birth of his new daughter today. I'm sure he'll have a cigar for everybody. 

George 

Before Mr Powers gets here with all the answers I'm not sure if I'm understanding the question.  Normally those type of machines whether they be steam, air or mechanical are variable speed and hitting force depending on how much pressure you apply to the foot pedal or other operating device. 

Are you wanting to know how much force it's capable of at full force? If so I'd guess it just depends. In addition to ram weight the steam or air pressure would need to be known as well. 

George 

On a list of needs a clip horn isn't a must have but it is a nice to have. 

There are about as many ways to pull clips as there are ways to skin a cat. As long as they get the same end result there is no wrong way to do it. A clip horn just gives one more option.

I posted a vid on this site some time ago of one in use but I'll be doggone if I remember where.

Let me look around and I'll see what I can find.

George