jeremy k

Read thru the gas forge section of this forum and you'll find more info than you can imagine, as well as these questions have been addressed many times in the past. Please take your time to do your research, the answers are there along with very tried and true designs.

It appears that after the ball was spun, the center mandrel comes out to release the multiple pieces of the form, - Just my guess on looking at the pics.

Ted - Here's some I made for golfers around my area.

Did you get that thru "Old World Anvils" ( Bob Berglund)? - I have a no 6 that the first buyer I believe got it from Bob. Mine wasn't used much at all when I got it.

It appears that they were placing the dogs in the same spots as before - so can I assume that after servicing/inspecting the chimney they remove the dogs on the way down and also fill in the holes with mortar ? I can see the removal to keep kids from climbing the chimney. Interesting subject no less.

Have you set the regulator?

Cement or castable refractory?

Working on a 9ft X 15ft US flag for a local town ( 4th of July celebration), will be lit with led rope lights, star panel is back lit w/ led rope on back side of star cut outs and reflects off back sheet 4" away, you can see star details even at 200 + ft away at night. I should have whole flag lit after dark tonight. Working on welding the rest of the spacers etc today.

Gas may be your best bet due to the chimney issues?

The one I had had a 1" Stainless steel solid bar for holding pigs.

Why not have a shear section just for the shear fun of it. People cannot use a section in the forums if its not there.

I'd say both are bent - easy fix with a little heat. I have repaired a few of mine by doing this (heating the eyes and bending back to where they should be), they all are still working fine.

Sorry to hear that this is true, the times I talked with him on the phone, he was very friendly and helpful.

I haven't been able to find the obituary - is it the Larry that had Monster Metal for sure?

Even then - Yellin may have not actually done the forging - as his workers most likely did to his drawings - lots of leeway there on authenticating in my eyes. I could reproduce many things that look like originals if I wanted to.

Somewhere I believe I have printed out pics of a few different views of the factory made ( saw it originally on a European blacksmithing supply site I believe) adjustable stand in my pile of blacksmithing related pictures (cant seem to find any other views on the net lately) - as I wanted to build on like that for a long time for a large swage block I have - like yours is a bear to man handle. It does essentially all that your stand does.

Nice - looks very similar to a European stand I've seen before - I'll have to make a stand similar to that for my 15" x 15" x 4"

What are you looking for that is not in the owners manual?

Clamp it in a piece of heavy angle iron, lining up threads as close as you can - then grind out the accessible area - weld, then turn over and do the same for the other side, this will be the best way to get the threads aligned and stay aligned during welding - you may have to tweek it a touch to straighten after all welding is done, but it shouldn't be much. Then touch up the threads with an angle grinder with a cut off wheel to get into the threads/ or file etc.

You may want to copy and paste your post and send to the business owner.

Sounds like someone is going to have to make up some pattern welded billets, and show the cross section views of how the metal is moving, blow for blow. :-) I think what Jennifer is trying to get thru to everyone, is the "feel" of how metal moves once one does it for long enough to get the second nature feel of how metal moves? I think Mark Aspery's definition of the cow poop effect of how metal moves is pretty good.

This is a great subject - although - before one can pick apart the mechanics of hammer position and angle - one first has to have a very accurate hammer control (muscle memory) from lots of hammering. Once someone has a definite consistent hammer control, then they can improve by seeing the problems from that initial consistency, and only then can change things to improve their hammer control. Do keep the topic in controversy!!!!

You might be better off finding someone fairly close that could help you learn to make a small hook or nail, then in your paper say that you did that first hand, and found out that not everyone could make weapons easily at first as it does take a learning curve to learn how metal moves etc, etc. to just make a simple hook or nail, and any weapon/s would require a greater amount of skill.

Figuring volume or weights per size needed are your best friends.

Looks like a usable anvil. What's stopping you?