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I Forge Iron

Saiga308

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Posts posted by Saiga308

  1. OK, so its fine to go barefaced when forging with charcoal in a well ventilated area in a steel forge, but when grinding or sanding it is probably a good idea to wear a dust mask......

  2. OK I understand that you need to wear a respirator when forge welding, and to stay away from galvanized metals and zinc, period. But what about when I forge (charcoal), or use my belt sander and grinder?
    Do you still need to wear one?
    I have yet to see anyone use them yet in a video while forging, but I want to make sure.
    Thanks,
    Jim

  3. Hey folks, last year I came up with an idea that I wanted to try, and I just got done with the result! I really like the Khukuri style blade but I noticed that I really did not use the point very often, also I am really a fan of the chisel point....so I combined them both in a large chopper. The forged blade is a tad over 10" long, out of leafspring with a convex grind. It has a matt finish and is differentially tempered and has a cooking pot notch near the tip and a fire steel striker on the back. The full 6" grip has an exposed tang in the back with a lanyard hole, and the 1/4" SS tubing holds the home made micarta in place. The GoTo is tapered front to back and is a little over 1/4" thick in the center. I will be making the leather sheath next, but I thought you folks would like a little blade porn!
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    You can watch the entire process on my youtube channel (laneakjt), I will be posting video #10 on this blade tonight!
    Take care,
    Jim

  4. That was fun, just one question...

    What did them poor jugs ever do to you???

    Ha! I have been at war with jugs of water so long, to tell the truth I forgot what started it.....but I am sure it was there fault! LOL

    sure glad i ain.t a plastic jug or a stick!!!great vid. amd work on the knife- what is it made out of, etc. inquireing minds want to know....jimmy


    The specs on this blade are right here:

    http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f14/i-forged-khukuri-7588/

    Thanks for the kind words folks and I am glad you all enjoyed it!
  5. Hey folks,
    I was going to take it easy today, but this blade kept whispering in my ear..."I need a sheath, it won't take long....come on..."
    So here it is, my new camping setup, Kydex sheath, that holds my SAK and diamond stick. Plus my mini-kit in a waterproof snuff container. I used a semi-rough leather for the belt loop and the leg strap, it seems to hold itself in place pretty good. The leg strap has Velcro riveted and glued into place. Enjoy the pics!

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  6. I was trying to somewhat copy the hardness of the traditional khukuris by leaving the spine and handle soft. I used hot motor oil in a deep tub and sunk in about an 1-1/2" up from the edge, leaving the spine and handle out for a while. I have not got to try the draw temper yet, but I sure want to! That is one of the things I find so cool about this site, what ever you want to try to do, some one here has one or two or three ways to accomplish it. The amount of good info here is huge!
    Thanks for the kind words folks, when ever I get the kydex sheath done I will post it up as well.

  7. Here is my first attempt at the Khukuri style blade, this knife is going to be my main carry blade for camping. I have wanted to make one for a long time, just to see what it was like to pound out something this heavy….I had no idea what I was getting myself into! I forged the 11” blade from leaf spring (5160) into a convex edge, I dropped the edge down far enough to make a good finger guard and tried to copy the curve of the blade to my beloved CS LTC. The notch on the tip is something I saw on the Hoods Hunter that I think is for the wire bail on a cooking pot, and the scallop on the spine is a spot to spark a BS Striker. I differentially heat treated the blade leaving the handle and half of the (5/16”+) thick spine soft. The grip is 5-

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  8. I am glad you liked it! I did not use anything special for this, I took some good quality leather and cut it to size then I sewed it up. Afterward I soaked the entire sheath in water and used a curved piece of wood in the shape of a spoon to press the leather into shape. I covered the blade and handle in saran-wrap and put it into the wet sheath. Then I pressed the leather from the outside with the "spoon", and kept pressing and moving the wood around until I had the shape that I was looking for. Afterward I set the moist sheath out in the sun and turned it every 10 minuets or so to even the drying process. I hope this helped, next time I work with leather I will post some pics.
    Take care ,
    Jim

  9. Hey Folks,
    I have not been able to post for awhile, been busy at work and making blades!;) Here is one of the latest, I used a large farrier's rasp and forged the width down to what you see here. I really like the effect that the file leaves, it looks reptilian. This one has a 3-1/2" handle wrapped in gutted 550 cord and the blade is a 4" convex grind. It all fits into a front pocket kydex sheath for daily carry. Enjoy!

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  10. Hey Folks,
    Here is the latest, its made for a hunter with very big hands. I got the steel from Alabama Damascus, the mix is 5160, ball bearing and Nickel. It has a 6-1/8" convex blade that is tapered front and back. The 6" handle scales are out of Pink Ivory from South Africa and gray spacers with mosaic pins. The high ride sheath is hand stitched out of cowhide. Enjoy the pics!:D
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  11. Nice blade. Now enlighten us all about how you made the scale material. Is it a very involved process?


    Thank! I made the scales by:
    Laying down a sheet of wax paper on a flat board.
    Putting a layer of fresh mixed epoxy on the paper the size of my cloth strips.
    Pressing the first strip down, and pushing it flat.
    Added another layer of epoxy.
    Added another strip...and so on.
    When it was thick enough I then folded the wax paper up like a flat burrito.
    Put another piece of flat wood on top and clamp them together.
    Wait for it to dry, and do not touch....it gets hot!
    Unwrap and cut off the excess edges with a scrollsaw.
    Plane it flat.
    Cut out the scale.

    I should have taken some pics, next time I will!:)
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