Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Xwingace

Members
  • Posts

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Xwingace

  1. I'd love to have one in my truck, could get some hammer time in during lunch at the office.
  2. I'm on board with the other comments, as a practical piece I'm not sure, but would I wear that on my hip? Oh hell yes, it's beautiful!
  3. I love it, it's mean looking!
  4. I always say it's "the essential asymmetry of art" when things come out cattywumpus.
  5. I plan to mix my dad's ashes with casting resin and make fishing lures, so I can still take him fishing after he's gone. He is totally on board with it.
  6. xxxx, you could hunt bear with that monster. Nice!
  7. Size of the forge would be key information too -- volume, number of burners, etc.
  8. An improperly made slide will get you dead, you know. Have a gunsmith check your work before you run a round through it.
  9. I'd really like to hear more about cutting the stock with the induction coil, that's new to me and sounds like capital fun.
  10. Love love the sheath! Great primitive look set.
  11. A wee one from 1095 with walnut handle The big one is 5160 with kingwood Many thanks to my smithing teachers Cliff, Chris, Celeste and Skyler at the Crucible!
  12. I use my HF sheet metal punch to make holes for running laces, it works like a charm! All you really need are a good sharp knife, some pliers and quality leather needles. Don't use regular sewing needles, they won't hold up even if you are using pre punched or awled holes. I used the same method Dodge does to make the sewing holes, it works great. Like most things it takes practice, don't get discouraged if your first sheathe is fugly, I know mine was.
  13. Looks like a knurler for making knurled ferndocks.
  14. Love the tool holder! If I didn't have a stump handy I might have to make one just like it. I do some woodworking, the vinegar-rust mix is a pretty typical potion for 'ebonizing' certain woods. It's great for getting that worn out look.
  15. Thanks for the help fellas! Actually with the blue knife I can have a piece off the top without much trouble that has a nice oval cross section, we'll see how much fight it gives me. I acquired the piece off Craigslist, was going to make an anvil with it until I found a deal on one of those also, so now I have to figure out what to do with 6 feet of the stuff. Good times!
  16. Hi all! I have a ~4 foot section of railroad track, I am wondering if the steel on it would be good for hammers. Haven't spark tested it or anything yet, but I am planning on asking my chemist friends if they can sneak a sample in ;) Thought I'd ask here first. The top section is already halfway there as far as shape goes. The markings on it are: Ohio Forge 9020-ARA-A-4-1919 Apparently those are measurements for the type of track. New to these forums, but soaking up the knowledge here is like drinking cold OJ in the morning, can't get enough! Arf, Dave
  17. Hi all, I'm new here, and to smithing as well, although I've been tinkering with fire and steel for years. I acquired an anvil off craigslist, and other than a little surface rust it is unused (It's a 150 lb Emerson). The edges of the face are nice sharp 90 degree angles, and it's my understanding that I should round them over with a grinder before using it. Is the angle grinder the best tool for this, and if so do I want to use your standard resin disk, or something less agressive? I sure don't want to spoil it! Thanks all, and love these forums. There is an embarrasment of knowledge and artistry here.
×
×
  • Create New...