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I Forge Iron

Stryker8

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  • Location
    NEPA, PA
  1. I saw a video on youtube of someone that completely did a large anvil over. It was repaired, hard faced and ground down perfect. He then built a metal frame device that attached to the hitch of the pickup truck. He also built a holder that allowed two people to lift the anvil, which was hanging upside down at that point. Fast forward, the anvil was upside down in a quick brick built forge about 10 feet from the down ramp (dirt) to the lakes edge. The anvil was heated to the proper temp and checked with a magnet and welding tempilstick for proper temperature. It was then picked up with a helper (anvil still upside down) and walked over to the holder on the back of the truck. The holder device allowed the anvil to just slightly hang above the ground several feet from the back of the truck. Next, he backed up the truck and the smoking hot anvil went into the water still supported by the frame. The truck was then driven slowly forward and backward many times until the anvil was cooled in the water. The anvil was heated again and this process was repeated 2 or 3 times to get the proper temper on it if I remember correctly. The way this process was done only allowed the face of the anvil to receive the real heat treatment. The end of the video showed the fantastic ring and bounce of the completely done over anvil (it was really great to see)!
  2. Thanks for the fast reply!!! Yeah, I called a scrap yard and they can get the anvil off & on with straps and a forklift + an accurate weight too! When we got the anvil on the truck the wife said it lowered down a bit (1/2 ton truck) LOL! I have another picture for possible brand ID but can't seem find the option to add it on this reply? Also, is there a way to edit/remove/add pictures once the post has been completed? Thanks again!!!
  3. Hi, I just picked up this anvil from a family and the grandfather was a blacksmith that used it. They were always told it was a 400-pound anvil. I can't find a maker’s mark due to the strike marks on the side, but with some flour was able to get the English weight markings to show lightly. I can definitely see the first "3" and last "6" marks but It's very hard to make out the middle number weight? I believe It's a "3" but I'm not really sure? Is there a better way to get the markings to show??? If someone knows the makers brand from the style that would be great!!! Also, based on the condition (photos) what's the average value on an anvil like this one? It does have a nice ring to it and the rebound is decent too. There's only a small chip on one side and the rest of the face seems to be in pretty good overall shape. Thanks again!!!
  4. I want to "THANK" all for the fast replies! I have a local blacksmith shop not far from me and I can get top quality coal at 50lbs for $17.00 a bag! :) Since I'm located in PA there's no shortage of good grade stuff here!!! Thanks again!
  5. Hello all, New to the forum here!!! I made a few knives back in the day (many moons ago) for friends and wanted to get back into the craft a few years ago. The knives were simple and primitive and made from some old found files and auto springs but had long wearing blades going for them. I forgot most of anything learned way back then and took a basic blacksmithing course about 4 years ago to get started up in it again (wife thinks I’m nuts)! Anyway, I unfortunately sold a nice old forge and anvil last year due to a money situation we were going through, but things are starting to look better now as I recently scored a decent 170 LB anvil so I can start it all over again (LOL)! The issue now is I need a functional and inexpensive forge to complete the transition back to hobby blacksmith/knife maker. I just picked up a 14" brake drum hub and need some ideas as to the best way to mount it to a base or stand? I was thinking (saw a picture) of a brake drum setup mounted on the top of what appears to be a 16 or 20 gal steel type drum. There's a section of it cutout so the pipes could be installed for the blower and also connected to the bottom of the firepot. I do own a small 130 amp TIG / 90 amp arc welder and would like some thoughts if it's worth spending extra time & money constructing some type of heavier base or stand for it? I'm only going to be making (for now) some small hunting type file/auto coil spring knives and think I want to have a small enough forge to keep the coal consumption down though I'm not really sure if that's really practical to do? However, I do plan to upgrade to a bigger and better type forge down the road as my finances permit, but for now I just need something to get me going at this again! Thanks!!!
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