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I Forge Iron

yesteryearforge

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Everything posted by yesteryearforge

  1. Perhaps it would help if when ordering you specified what kind of mild steel you want as there are all kinds . 12L14 comes to mind -- Machines like butter but not recommended to be welded ( I suppose because it is a leaded cold roll ) I have never had any problems with forging 1018 cold roll . Same with Hot roll steel ( if you don't specify you will more than likely get A36 )
  2. Of all the things that I have lost I think I miss my mind the most
  3. Give out before you give up - if it was easy anybody could do it
  4. I wipe my Anvils and other heavy metal items down with a terry cloth towel soaked in PEANUT OIL per Brian Brazeal and nothing affects them. Before I had Brian here for 3 weeks I had tried everything under the sun and nothing seemed to work ( it would just rust underneath whatever I had applied ). We just had a major temp. swing and it looked like everything in the shop had been hosed down with a water hose. But I built a fire in the woodstove ( even though it was 70 degrees outside ) and turned a fan on low to circulate some air and everything was fine in short oeder
  5. You could just bend a piece into a long U shape and forge weld it and then split it for the fork
  6. I have NEVER attached an anvil to its base I capture it so it won't fall off but other than that it just sits there.
  7. I finally went and had bifocals made expressly for forging Went to great lengths to get them focused where everything would be crystal clear at the proper distance for forging. I only use these glasses for forging. Being bifocals I can look up and all around just fine but when I need them ( WHERE ) I need them they are just right. Had the lenses put into some old wire rim safety glass frames with the wrap around ear pieces so they don't fall off while heavy forging . Pretty reasonable too.
  8. You can also use light weight angle iron to make a feather. Something like 1 X 1 X 1/8 When you flatten it out the corner becomes the center stem and you get the same effect as folding it in the vise and re opening
  9. I Have a rather large woodstove in the forge and a very small fan to circulate the heat around . I use coal fired forges which pretty much take care of keeping me warm from the knees up. I also have two gassers which I mainly use in the winter to help heat the shop as I feel that's about all they are good for. I heat a piece of 2 X 4 X 12 inch piece of steel in the forge to put in the slack tub to thaw it out in the mornings. Have rock dust floors so sometimes it gets pretty cold on my feet but insulated boots help a lot there. My anvil is way to large for any preheating to be effective. I have a power hammer but don't use it very often as I really enjoy the use of hand hammers . Also the air compressor is outside so sometimes the air lines freeze up as I really don't drain them as often as I should. All in All I prefer to forge in the winter over forging in the summer.
  10. Maybe try ( practical machinist ) forum Someone there can tell you for sure
  11. I actually prefer a dirt floor ( rock dust ) actually Granite dust I have worked on concrete floors all my life and they are hard on you. When I built my new shop the first prerequisite was a dirt floor.
  12. Post away we really like photos. They say a picture is worth a thousand words Most of the seniors here only post words anyway
  13. Been attending for years Will be there again this year
  14. A peanut oil soaked towel will do the same thing Just be careful and don't let anyone with peanut allergies lick your anvil
  15. Welcome Flemish always good to see more Virginians on here
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