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I Forge Iron

Fatfudd

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Everything posted by Fatfudd

  1. Whoa now- That's a Molock not a little giant! They were built by the Mayer brothers long after the brothers got ousted by the company they started. Altho they are similar they aren't exactly the same power hammers. The Molock's had a number of modernizations/modifications to the original little giant design that are discussed in Kern's book. In several places he makes suggestions to upgrade the LGs making them similar to Molock and Murcos for improvements. You have a really great power hammer one that is nearly bullet proof if you maintain it properly. There weren't nearly as many Molocks and Murcos made but the are worth their weight in gold. Roger Rice at Little Giant Power Hammers.com has many parts and dies that fit these hammers and can help you with some advice altho he and I have discussed some of the differences too. You might also want to get "Pounding out Profits" for a very little more info on the background of the Mayer brothers history. The info on the Molock and Murcos is scarce unfortunately, however since i found mine I have gained a little more understanding by spending a great deal of time comparing the LGs to my hammer. Congratulations you have great hammer.
  2. ABEBooks.com has several copies of Kern's book but they are kind of pricey. I think you'll find a copy to be worth every penny tho. Another suggestion is to contact Roger Rice at little giant and discuss the issue with him. He took over the business from Sid and I have found him to be very helpful.
  3. Looks like an early English anvil, but it could be made by any of many makers. Sorry. Without more info from markings its anybody's guess
  4. I'm using a horse stall pad from Tractor supply under my 25lb murco. Its pretty hard and works very well.
  5. If you do a google search and put John Brooks anvil and IFI in the search line you'll find out among other things they are cast steel, very high quality, and are still in production.
  6. Do a little research on this website and you'll gather a whole lot of discussion about the two anvils. I would add that the newer Peddinghaus anvils have gotten some negative criticism but you need to do some more research on your own..
  7. Looks like a great anvil for almost anything you'd ever want to do. Metal workers and other folks that use tools modify their tools to do what they need. I have modified my tools which in the years to come may be considered a horrible mistake. Well apparently the previous owner of that anvil needed to take off that section of the top plate but it really is an insignificant modification as far as its actual use is considered. I believe you will be able to everything you would ever need to do in the future.. Use it and make beautiful things!
  8. Unfortunately your anvil is in really poor condition. The cost to have someone redo the top would probably be expensive. There is a fellow on IFI that lives in Crescent City who has reported fixing a number of anvils. Perhaps he will chime in.
  9. It appears to be a cast iron ASO, I wouldn't tell a friend to bid on it unless you can verify that it is a real anvil.
  10. Unless you can figure out what it was originally used for and what it was attached to your guess will be as good as anyone else's. there is really no other way to know. Sorry.
  11. PW didn't put serial numbers on their anvils so its a guess as to when they were made. If it has "England" stamped on it, it is a later make probably after 1908.
  12. The Refflinghaus is by far the best, the others are a little soft, but you might also look at the papa rhino if your budget is a little tight. They are excellent anvils for good prices.
  13. Looks like a trenton farriers anvil. It's in decent condition. Are there any numbers on the front foot under the horn? What are you intending to do with it?
  14. I checked them out at last year's ABANA conference and was impressed. Great rebound and apparently very well made. They aren't cheap and if I were looking for a new anvil I'd look at Rhino anvils too. Great anvils for the price and somewhat cheaper than the Big Blu. But if you want the best and can afford it get a Refflinghaus, I bought one a few years back and have never regretted it for a minute.
  15. Before you hear this from everyone else, please put your location under your name. The anvil could be in lithuania, England or Brazil. If it is an English anvil which it looks like, there were literally hundreds of makers so we will need a lot more pictures up close on the sides after you have wire brushed them. It looks like a Mousehole anvil but there were a number of companies that were started by previous employees of the bigger manufacturer.
  16. 33" long would put it close to 300lbs. That being the case anything under $1500 would be an acceptable price but I have seen them go for more than $2000 because as Charles said the TV shows are driving the price. If I were going to spend that kind of money I would look at some of the new anvils that are made in your part of the country. Rhino anvils in particular but Nimba anvils also. They are more than excellent.
  17. That long thin tail and the two pritchel holes would probably make it a Trenton
  18. I found a Murray 25lb hammer in excellent condition behind an auto shop in Corona NM. about 2 months ago. It turns out that auto shop was the site of the original blacksmithing shop for the town.The owner was the son of the blacksmith and several folks had tired to buy the hammer but he had refused. I asked if he wanted to sell it and he said "make me an offer I can't refuse" I offered him $1000 and he simply said its yours. I put a 1hp motor on it and bought a new tension spring and a set of dies from Roger Rice at little giant and have a little more than $1500 in it. Since Moloch and Murray hammers were significant upgrades to the original Little giant hammers they are pretty nearly bullet proof.
  19. Robb Gunter still repairs anvils and could possibly repair yours. Look up "Gunter Method" He lives in Edgewood NM if you wish to look him up.
  20. Very Nice Anvil. Without knowing the maker it would be really hard to determine the age of the anvil or its date of manufacture. It is a cast steel anvil which narrows it quite a bit and looking at the weight stamp impression I would guess Kohlswa or a similar manufacturer but that is only a guess. My Soderfors Austrian(bohemian) anvil was cast too but there is no serial number on it. Hopefully someone across the pond might know more?
  21. The anvil is ok to use and use it you should. It is a great starter anvil and far better than what I started with. Don't be discouraged by others comments and don't sweat the condition. As Kevin said "Forge On It" It will serve you well and after you have gotten some experience and started making money, then consider whether you actually need another anvil. I still have the piece of rail road track I started on many many years ago and I also have way too many anvils that I have been able to purchase because i have a blacksmith art business.
  22. Hey Frog it looks like the second one has flats on the feet, can you see that? The first one has the look of a post 1908 Hay Budden. More pictures would really help, after you go over the anvils with a cupped wire brush.
  23. Fatfudd

    Press info.

    What kind of press are you considering? It would help if you could narrow your ideal a little.
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