Fatfudd

Try contacting Roger Rice at little giant power hammers. com He has several types in stock including the quick change type.

No need for more pics its a Hay Budden 3rd variation. The whole top half is tool steel. Nice score!

It could be an ASO, does it ring when struck, does it have a decent rebound? Where are you located? It could also be cast steel because the horn is too well formed.

Probably a Columbian

There are lots of relatively cheap alarm systems available, even some from harbor freight,

That is no Arm and Hammer anvil. if anything it might be another vulcan.

Hmm, maybe, I'll see when I get it mounted but it appears to be able turn somewhat further.

The one in poor shape is a vulcan, very different from an Arm and Hammer. I would take a ball bearing and check the rebound on all of them, but the Duracast looks like a cast iron anvil shaped object. You might also read this thread-

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I had in mind to make the attachments similar to Wayne's suggestion. This vice is a few inches taller than my other vises so I'll need to adapt the mount to go above the level of the bench. I may however simply make stand to fit the whole vise. One interesting thing is that each side of the vise is marked with the number 30 which I initially thought might be the weight in kilos but that would equate to only 66 lbs. the actual weight is over 80lbs.

I have a French leg vise and was hoping someone might help with the mounting bracket? I can see many ways to mount it to a stand/bench but I am wondering if someone has a similar vise and has mounted it? Any suggestions/pics would be helpful.

Black frog is going to like this one. It's a very early Arm and Hammer. Trenton didn't make A&H they were two seperate companies. Good score!

If you can afford to spend that much on an anvil then you should either wait until you move and buy a good anvil like a rhino anvil for just a little more or search for one when you get to CO. Personally I'd suggest as others have said, make really sure you are going to stay in the blacksmithing field by before dropping a bunch of bucks on a lower grade anvil like a vulcan.

Altho unproven there are those that believe that Boker was contracting with PW to produce anvils which were then branded Trenton.

Then try this-

You might spend a few hours reading many of the threads on this website, I believe your question is one that many folks starting out are asking and wishing. I don't want to sound ornery but if you look around here you'll find this thread-

You're correct, The compressor/air combo is much slower than a direct drive to the hydraulic pump. I built mine the same as Olfart describes and as I said it'll squash a piece of .5"x.5" real nicely but I can't get it to do work any faster than if I do it by hand. Actually its slower because the ram moves so slowly, does suck out the heat rather quickly and also because it uses a lot of air, even with a 60 gallon compressor tank. You would wind up waiting for the compressor to recharge if you have a smaller compressor. My 27 ton log splitter is actually much better (for me) than alot of my friend's stationary forging presses, Its mobile, costs about 75% less than their presses and allows much more space for the forging processes. Since I don't use it all the time I can just push it outside and leave it when i don't need it but it only takes about 5 minutes to set it up to run.

Get the book pounding out profits, it is a great reference book on all power and helve hammers. According to the book LG bought out murco to eliminate the competition. It kind of interesting that LG didn't incorporate all the improvements that the Mayer brothers had made to the Moloch and Murco hammers after they bought them out. Mine is a small 25lb Murco in nice condition, here's some pics before I cleaned it up and put it in the shop.

I was just wondering because my Murco has a serial number tag too and I was hoping if the machine Co tag had a date that could be a reference from your murco date to mine. Seeing as how Little giant bought out MURCO in the 60's that tag's date isn't really very helpful. Thanks anyway!

Its much slower, kind of like working a regular hydraulic press by hand. It means as the ram encounters the item to be lifted(or squeezed) the pressure begins to build. As the pressure begins to build the ram moves more slowly. As it nears the end of it its weight lifting capability you begin to get close to the top if its pressure curve or the 20 ton lifting capability. This is similar to a regular hydraulic cylinder(in a press or log splitter) but because of the speed of the ram you get the pressure spike much quicker.

I have built one of the small presses using an air over hydraulic jack and after you do, you'll realize that they work OK for really small things. They mash a hot piece of 1/2" but they are still too slow and really don't hit the max (20 ton) pressure until you are nearing the end of the pressure curve which takes a while to reach. My 27 ton log splitter is about a 100 times more versatile. But as I said I built one after watching the Youtube videos, now it sits in a corner and I use it occasionally for copper.

Nice hammer! What is the date on your hammer's tag?

Nice idea, thanks for sharing.

I dunno about some of the suggestions you have received so far. If the rebound is good and the ring across the top is good(no buzzing) get it. At $2/lb it would be a heck of a deal. It would be a great starter anvil, far better than what I started with 30 years ago. So what if someone messed with the edges as long as you have a decent rebound on the face its good to go. You can make enough money off an anvil like that to buy a Refflinghaus in the not too distant future.. Seems like everyone is getting a little too snobbish about the quality of the anvils that a person should be starting out on. To be honest, I used a Trenton for a number of years that some joker had welded on the edges and you know what, it worked just fine.The only caution is if the rebound isn't good or the top plate has a lot of buzzing sounds then yeah pass on it,

It is a little too hard to tell much about your anvil with the pictures you have provided, Some close ups of the underside of the base, the holes under the horn and tail,. and numbers any where else else on it. A closer picture of the top edges would help also.

I have some SWAG dies for rolling .5" steel the hard way with a harbor freight roller. The dies appear to be only a few thousands wider than .5" to bend the metal without too much flexing and distortion. You might contact SWAG for their exact measurements.