ddan7
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Posts posted by ddan7
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I wear my contacts all the time and have no issues but I would definitely recommend the safety glasses when grinding or cutting.
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Why do firepots tend to be cast iron? I was looking at welding one up from 1/2" mild steel that I can get from work cheap (free). Is there a problem with using mild or is it just that with new materials cast is cheaper?
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The loss of carbon makes some sense. I suppose that if I tried layers of mild steel, I wouldn't see a pattern because there isn't enough carbon to begin with to show any contrast. Any thoughts on this?
By the way, nice knife, I hope to try and make one soon. -
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I got to thinking today and am a little confused about damascus (pattern welded) from cable. Isn't cable the same steel throughout? If it isn't, then it makes sense, if it is, then I need someone to explain it to me. The pattern seems to show up really well on the examples I've seen (I've never tried it) and I would think that would be difficult if it were the same steel. So, is cable made from different steels braided together or not?
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Wow! That's really nice. I'm sure your client will love that sword.
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I having a little trouble forging a socket (I was trying to make a hoe out of a lawnmower blade) I can fuller a fan shape but I'm looking for tips or the proper hardy tool to create the socket. What tool is typically used for this? I'm guessing the horn, but I need a much smaller cone than the horn. Help Please...
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I just bought a new anvil at an auction. It's a 50 pounder that I got for $55. It's much, much better than the 9 pound I-beam I just replaced. The hammer bounces back nicely, which is a new experience compared to the old "anvil". I know that it's pretty small and probably just barely adequate, but is there any specific way to tell what it's made of? I want to make sure it's not cast iron. I can't find a single marking anywhere on it.
I added pictures to the gallery if it helps. Hopefully, they'll appear below this message: -
You could always just forge at night:D:D
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I'd take a look at Rockler
There is a plan available, but also some good ideas for the hardware. -
Very Nice! Looks like Elm to me, do you know what the tree was? Bandmills are very precise, my uncle has a Woodmizer LT28 and it's a wonderful machine that really helped make woodworking affordable to me.
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For what it's worth, Sycamore has the same interlocking grain and is used for cutting boards for this reason.
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I believe it's because elm has interlocking grain. In other words, Elm is highly resistant to splitting and I'm sure there's a few folks who chop firewood who will agree.
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The Radio Shack in town is no more. So, I used white vinegar at a slow boil for 20 or so minutes. I now have a lovely etch but how do I polish it without removing the etch. It's very light. I practiced with wax and a green scratch pad on the tang and it sanded it right off! I supposed I need a deeper etch or a lighter polish. Any suggestions?
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I used the roller chain and made a nice billet today which fell apart three times in the process but I ended up with two nice billets which I formed into knife blanks. My method was to fold the chain over on itself until I had a piece roughly 2" wide by 6" long and about 1/2" thick. I wired it together and just kept adding borax and smacking it together. I kept the chain pins parallel to the ground (read that online somewhere) I think that was the right idea because it mostly held together. Like I said, it fell apart a few times and I ended up with a couple of billets about 1/2" x 1/2" and about 3-4" long.
My forge welding needs more improvement as there are a few open cracks in my knife blank, but I thought I continue all the way to see what I'd end up with. So, I've shaped and shined and heat treated, what should I acid should I use to etch? A search turned up ferric chloride as the recommended but I'm not sure where to find it. What can I find at a local place that will etch? I've got a wal-mart, menards, rural king (like a Tractor Supply) in town. -
I would like to try making some damascus out of chain. I have access to a chainsaw chain and a roller chain from a farm implement (larger than bicycle chain). Before I fire up the forge, I have a few questions:
1. Would either of these work or is one better than the other?
2. Are there any tricks I should be aware of?
3. Once I hammer a section flat, how often should I fold it? I'm sure there's no magic number, but is there a minimum? -
HSS Guide
in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
Posted
I was wondering if anyone had a reference for the different grades of HSS. I have some T-1 HSS planer knives and was wondering if this was a decent grade of High Speed Steel.