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Steve Sells

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Posts posted by Steve Sells

  1. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0713 Damascus Billet for a knife
    by Garey Ford


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    Materials for the easy weld billet. Roll of banding strap and some saw mill blades

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    Cutting the saw blade and banding strap in 6" pieces.

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    Pile of saw blades and banding strap cut into 6" pieces. i use around 25 pieces of each type of metals for a billet of 50 layers.

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    Alternate the banding straps and the saw blades so they are evenly spaced through out the billet. Clamp tight together with a vice or C clamps and wire together

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    Billet in the forge soaking to get hot all the way through

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    I drew the billet out long and cut it into 4 pieces.

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    4 pieces welded together with a handle welded on for easy handling.

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    Billet heating up in the forge.

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    Fluxing billet with 20 mule team borax. Make sure all sides are covered with the borax and it looks like wet syrup on the surfaces to block air from contacting the steel.

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    Welding/pressing together the billet on the press. I do this in little bites down the length of the billet. It takes several heats to get the billet drawn out.

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    Drawing out and squaring up the billet on the power hammer. It takes several heats to do this. I go from the press to the power hammer, back to the press several times during the drawing out process to make sure the billet is welded solid down the length of the billet.

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    Billet welded up and drawn out to the length i needed. All that is left to do is hand forge to shape and grind the blade out hidden inside the billet. This billet was about 175 / 200 layers thick

    13.jpg

    This knife was made from part of the demo billet.\

  2. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0745 Hacksaw
    by wolfshieldrx


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    10 inch blade. 1.5 inch depth of cut. Still need to turn a proper handle (thats a file handle) and make some blade holders. Wanted somrthing small for my traveling box. Tried it out shortening some rivets and it works sweet! Comments, questions and critiques welcome. I just want turn my own handle instead of using the manufactured one. Did not really need another hacksaw but I've been in a tool-making mode lately.

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    Turned a handle from a piece of wild cherry I had. Copper band. Forged wing-nuts with tiny carriage bolts. I have a perfectly good "modern" hacksaw, but have wanted to make a proper "blacksmith" mode for some time now.

  3. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0747 Candle Holder
    by forging-fool

     

     

     

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    Their made of mild steel and burnished with a twisted wire brush on a mini grinder and wiped down with boiled linseed oil. Arches are 30mm by 6mm flat bar and uprights are all 16mm square bar. It was all hand worked on the anvil, and I made the texture using the sharpened cross pien of a hammer. I'll take a photo of the hammer today encase anyone is interested.

  4. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0749 Making rings, formula
    by TASmith

     

    example: you want to bend a ring with a six inch ID and are using 1/2 inch round stock Multiply the required diameter (inside) by three and the diameter of the stock by three and add them together (3X6)+(3x1/2)=18 + 1 1/2= 19 1/2 inches of material to make a six inch Id ring If you calculate the same thing using Pi x D 3.142 x 6 =18.875 inches But this gives you the diameter as measured in the center line of the stock and your inside diameter would end up just under six inches so you would have to add about a 1/2 inch to that length to achieve a six in inside diameter making it 19.375 inches or almost perfectly matching the "quick and dirty" calculation of 19.5 inches. Terry

    I can give you one "quick and dirty" formula for stock required when making a ring

    Pete.

  5. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0748 Shop Air Filter
    by Irnsrgn

     



    Shops generate a lot of dust and particulate matter.

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    Construct a box to hold a window fan.

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    A cheap window fan from discount store, 3 speed with thermostat.

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    Remove the adjustable accordion sizing pieces.

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    Make a simple narrow frame that the fan will just squeeze into.

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    Add spacers the width of the filter to top and bottom with ledges all around inside and 3 outside sides to retain filter. One end is narrower so the filter can be slipped in and out.

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    Filter slid into frame.

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    Fan slipped into frame and secured with 4 screws thru frame and into plastic housing of fan.

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    A French Cleat, basically 2 small pieces with one edge at a 45, one is fastened with the 45 up and toward the outside and the other is fastened opposite on the fan frame. Just lift up and over the outside one and drop in place.

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    One half of each cleat installed on opposite top corners of the frame.

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    Mounting bracket secured to ceiling joists.

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    Air cleaner hanging from mounting bracket.

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    Back view of hanging air cleaner. (notice color of filter after a week of running when power is on.

    SPECIAL NOTE - DO NOT USE the fans with the touch control, after they lose power of any kind they need to be touched again to start.

    These have the added advantage of moving heat that collects at the ceiling to a more usable height during the cold months, and they move air around in the warm months to help keep you cool.

    This particular air cleaner uses a 12 by 24 by 1 inch pleated filter with a Merv Rating of 7. You can order filters with a Merv Rating of 11 or better, they trap smaller particles even pet dander and pollen.
     

  6. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0751 Ultimate Tongs
    by Brian Brazeal


    Here's a pair of tongs I made for Lyle,LDW, for his birthday today. I initially made this type for prying with when making tools from spring, so the reins are a little stouter than I normally make. I also made them like the tongs

    01.jpg

    I posted quite a while back that would hold tapered stock. What I didn't count on though, was the versatilty of these tongs. These tongs will hold 1/4" round or square and everything in between all the way up to 1 1/8" as they are set right now. They will also hold tapers, round or square, and flat bar, 1/2" to 1". They are the most versatile tongs I have ever used or seen.

    I just took some pics of different things these tongs will hold. I could have kept going. I don't know if I can put all these pictures on, so I'll have Karen put them on picasa. Like I said these tongs hold round or square 1/4" to 1 1/8", rectangular,[straight,curved,tapered,straight curved, or tapered curved] even on the diagonal, tapers even curved tapers, and alot of odd ball stuff. They even have a built in stop when you're not wanting a piece to slip back in your tongs. They really are the ultimate tong.

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  7. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0752 How to make a slick (chisel)
    by Dogsoldat

    Beat out a Slick for Dad today. makes a pretty good trade for a conveyor for moving dirt out of the basement to be. a lot of beating to get the socket spread enough to roll it up. Can't wait til the ceramic blanket comes in and I can get another forge set up and the old one relined. One for small stuff and another for larger bits.

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  8. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0753 Board Jack
    by irnsrgn

     

     


    Jr's Wedge style board jack for Warped heavy flooring, a hands free jacking and pushing device.


    brdjck%20A.jpg


    Fig. A. - Cut 3 pieces of 1/4" by 2" angle iron 6" long. You may 45 or round the corners on one side of 2 pieces.





    brdjck%20B.jpg

    Fig. B. - Bore and tap the un 45ed flange of 2 of the pieces to 10-24 threads. Grind a point on 16 10-24 by 3/4" machine screws and thread on a locking nut.



    brdjck%20B2.jpg

    Fig. B-2 - Drill a 1/2" hole centered 3/4 " from the outside edge of the oppossing flange on both pieces. Insert a 1/2 by 1 1/4 long bolt into the hole from the inside of the flange and weld the head in place with 3 tacks on 3 flats of the bolt head.




    brdjck%20C.jpg

    Fig. C. - Drill 2, 1/2" holes along the center line of one flange 4 1/2 inches apart. Cut a piece of 2 inch pipe 2" long and then cut in half lengthwise and weld to the other flange off center, (if you are right handed offset to the right, the left if you are left handed.) This reinforces the cam action of the side cams. Round all corners of this piece to avoid injury to hands and body parts from sharp corners.



    brdjck%20D.jpg

    Fig. D. - Assemble the pieces as shown using self locking 1/2" nuts, The ones with the elastic locking ring. Screw in all the 10-24 machine screws so they protrude 3/16 to 1/4 inch and set the lock nuts. These are the grippers.

    Use a dead blow hammer or Heavy wood Mallet to drive the wedge in and out.

    You may want to weld on a short handle of pipe etc to help cock the grippers until the wedge forces the grippers into the floor joist.

    Cut a Wedge out of material you are using for flooring making sure it has a flat on both ends as shown, (too small a flat on the narrow end will crush and splinter when you drive the wedge out after securing the floor board with fasteners.


    Jr. Strasil

  9. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0754 Twists in Metal, Decoration or Elements
    by John B


    Some pictures from this weekends course

    Some were incorporated into log rollers, forks and shovels, others just kept as samples, sorry for picture quality and forgot to get pictures of finished articles, busy concentrating on the twists and answering questions, making teas etc.

    All the students did well, and we even had a gent from the other side of the pond visiting and taking part, look forward to seeing more from over there in the future.

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    Like all 'smithing, you should be able to tell by what you see.

    As a generalization, you can only do one thing at a time, and only heat a workable length of the material, (and if it goes wrong, leave it in the fire and destroy the evidence, or, clean it up and call it art, there is always an option)

    The top one in the picture is actually wrong in the fact that the third and fourth twists were mistakenly made in the same direction instead of the opposite direction, an easy mistake to make, particularly on a first attempt as they all were.

    To make the twist incise a line near to the edge on two opposite sides of the bar as long as you wish to make the twisted section, heat, place vertical in vice and make a 1/4 twist at a short length above the vice jaw, (use a spacer under the twisting bar to give regularity/repeatability) remove and reheat next section,

    (you can use the depth of the vice jaw as a length gauge/spacer for the flat portion) replace the hot bar vertical in the jaws, use the spacer and put in a 1/4 twist in the opposite direction,

    Just repeat for the rest of the length, then clean up and finish.

    Using the same technique, try it again, but this time use 1/2 twists.

    See pictures for the finished effect.

    Or you could capitalize on and learn from the mistake and use it as a separate twist in its own right, just keep 1/4 twisting in the same direction for yet another version.


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  10. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0755 Running Water at a Demo
    by jj2k aka John Jobe

     



    When we go to a demo, we always need a water source for cooling things, quenching, etc. This is what I use.


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    I use a small wooden slack tub when I demo. Here is a pic of mine I added a simple hand pump to use when I need “running” water.


    Once again it works well and always adds more conversation and questions to any demo I do.

  11. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0756 Veining Tool Modifications
    Reference to BP0260 Veining Tool
    by Steve LaPaugh





    IMG_1760.JPG

    When I saw the IForgeIron Blueprints in the January newsletter I knew I had to make one as I have always had a hard time holding the stock, veining tool and the hammer at the same time. So my weekend project was to make one as per the instructions. I had to make a minor modification in order to fit my anvil as it is one of Harbor Freights Russian anvils with the hardy hole at 45 degree to the anvil center line.
    IMG_1761.JPG

    I Welded a ¼-20 nut to a 2” inch of ¼” black iron pipe and drilled it out to 25/64” diameter to provide clearance for a 3/8” inch rod, then welded it to hardy end of the tool.
    IMG_1762.JPG

    Next I welded a 2” piece of 1x1x1/8” angle iron to the end of a 9 inch piece if 3/8” rod, gave it all a quick glass bead blast and a shot of clear urethane and the job was finished.

    Another feature is that the guide can be removed by loosening the thumb screw so it is not in the way when doing freehand leafs or other decorative striking.

  12. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0757 Power hammer tooling
    By Glenn Conner

     


    J Newman

    My tool holder with 2 sizes of stopper/kiss blocks in it but I think I will be adding a flipout setup to the other end soon. The tool tray over the treadle prevents you from dropping things on the treadle. These are some of the swages I plan on changing over.
     

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    kbaknife

    I use this for drawing out my knife blades, tapering distally, drawing out tangs, forging damascus square for twisting, etc.

    I have a 50# LG. On the sides of the die holder on top of the sow block are flat spots. To this I attached a welded frame with a 1 inch "hardie hole" for the post of a spacer block table. It raises up and down according to the thickness of the spacer or - whatever.

    Has unlimited uses. Tapped to recieve 3/8" socket head screws. The 1/4" bolt keeps the space from walking.

     
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    Forgemaster

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    I served my time on. 20cwt massey(1 ton). Started forging under this hammer at 17 years of age (2nd year apprentice) until about 23 years old. Yes it was already on that lean in 1982, is still leaning like that now. Still in use but not working anything like we used to work it. (And yes Johnny Holgate is still on the left side of the picture still doing what he was doing in 1982 when I was 17)
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    our pad and swage holders

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    The pad holder holds the stopper pads. It is a flick in or out arrangement. there is a handle on the flick out arrangement to prevent hands needing to go under the dies. Yes nakedanvil it is a massey, only a 5cwt though.

    14disc%20back%20hammer%20close.jpg

    One photo is of a plate that we have around the bottom block,really useful for when punching and stuff as it is just like having a bench with a power hammer in the middle of it. The other one is of a tool holder that we use where everything is on a hinge that can be flicked in or out, stopper pads, swages, bottom tools etc.

    Divermike

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    I whipped up for my tire hammer, just to give you an idea.

    james gonzalez

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    Here is one I made.

    Nuge

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    Here's the system I use.. The adjustable height and angle are not really necessary.

    Hofi

    I use two basic and simple ways to hold tools while forging with air hammer.

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    There is a collar fabricated from 11/8'' square steel that seats free around the bottom die with holes to insert the tools needed

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    The second system I use a heavy duty c clam to hold the tools

  13. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0758 RR Spike Hoof Pick
    By: John Martin

     

     

    Note: All appropriate safety gear should be worn while forging. If using a gas forge, like I do, check your lines and the seals. Glasses and ear protection are a must. I am not responsible for you being careless of yourself and hurting yourself or others.

    Well, you can't decide what to do with those Railroad spikes that you have laying around. Well, here is one item that is simple, very fast, and sells easily.

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    Grab a railroad spike and through it into the forge now.

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    Forge a square taper about 2" long.

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    Now put it on the diagonal and turn it into an octagonal taper.

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    Now begin to turn the octagonal taper into a round taper. To do this, rotate the spike back and forth quickly with quick hammer blows to turn it round.

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    To make the pick part, put the tip of your taper over the edge of the anvil, and hammer it gently until you get the shape that you want.

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    It's time to make this boring pick into something a little more comfortable in the hand and pleasing to the eyes.
    Heat up the whole spike, and clamp just about your pick part into the vise. Now twist, it can be as much or as little of a twist as you want. I did a 360 degree twist.

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    You're almost done, make sure everything is straight and lined up. If the pick isn't straight with the rest of the spike now because of twisting, heat the whole thing back up. Hold the spike so that only the pick part is on the anvil. Hammer it as ness Cary to make it straight with the rest of the spike. NEVER HAMMER ON THE TWIST OR YOU"LL WRECK IT. (Yes, you could use a wooden mallet and a wooden stump, but that takes more time, and the smoke burns your eyes.)

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    Your finished hoof pick. Apply whatever finish to it that you want. I just beeswax, and then clear coat these.

  14. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0760 Shop Lamp
    by Ed Steinkirchner


    What can you make out of 2 bicycle seat adjusters, a cheap lamp from the goodwill, a locking collar from some free weights, a piece of curtain rod, and about 10$ in hardware? an adjustable lamp for the shop!

    when i saw the bicycle part in the burn pile after my brother scrapped a bunch of bikes, i knew it would be good for something. so I grabbed the other 3 of them and threw them it the shop until I thought of something good for them. finally, when I was working on the lathe, i got sick of the inadequate light in the shop and bought an 8$ floor lamp from the goodwill and sat it behind the lathe. but it kept falling over, so I tried to think of a way to get light without cluttering up the floor of the shop, and this is what i thought of.


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    now the lamp stood about 5.5 feet tall stock, and the bracket pushes it out from the beam about 6 inches, so it is almost to the opposite wall of the shop! the shop is 7 feet by about 25 feet, we added it to the garage so it is a wierd shape. not bad for a grand total of about 20 bucks. also it is at about 7 feet over head, so a person like me don't even need to duck under it.

    Ed Steinkirchner

  15. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0744 Knife Blade
    by Brian Brazeal


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    Brian
    I don't normally forge blades, but here is the second blade I've ever forged. Mike, an ex-Marine came by this weekend and wanted to see how to make a blade. I made this out of 3/4" spring that he brought by. This is just the forging, no grinding yet. It took about 1 hour.

    I used coke, and I keep the scale blown off my anvil at the scaling heats then brush before I do finishing blow in the end. The number of heats it takes to distribute the metal can be a big factor with pitting from scale. I attack the dimensions that I'm going for. I don't just work on one area to finish. I bring it all down together.

    Rich Hale
    Brian thank you so much for sharing this as it is a gold standard piece to illustrate wot I have been preaching for years on here. When you want to forge you need to learn the basics. When you have the basics of safety,hammer control, body mechanics, proper use and selection of tools, then forging new to you pieces is an application of wot you have spent the time learning. When you have developed a forging plan that lets you deicide exactly wot you will do when you remove the metal from the heat and wot you will get done in one heat. You will take fewer heats to forge the item to shape. When you do not pound scale into the surface of the hot metal you do not have as much surface to remove to clean the piece up. Thanks for sharing.....

    Brian
    Thanks, Rich. How can I join that church you've been preaching at?lol
    The first blade I ever forged was in Michigan at a blade makers event. I'm not sure what it was called, but all the top blade guys were there. I was there with Tom Clark and they had me demonstrate forging techniques. I think it was back in 2002 or 2003. I did what they call "green coal" where you have a chance to make your first knife with a master bladesmith instructing you. I enjoyed it, and I really liked watching them do their competition where they would cut a 1" rope with one swipe and all the other things they did.

    The only reason I made this knife was because, Mike, one of the guys that came by and helped us make the big nails, wanted to see how to make a knife at the end of the day. He is just starting out blacksmithing, but he made a ring that day and several hearts and horses. He also made several punches and he struck and we made him his first forged hammer. It was a 3
    pounder made from 2 inch 4140 and it took about an hour. He's coming back Thursday and that will be my day to get some work out of him for me. It's amazing what a day of making nails will do for some one just starting out.


    Rich Hale
    Yes sir, and from you work I suspect that you have done some farrier competitions that you had to turn in works "as forged"

  16. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0762 Repousee
    by Dan P

     



    I don't post here (or anywhere else) very often, but I thought somebody might enjoy these photos of my repousee process.


    This was a job I did quite a while ago. I was making some leaves and other elements to replace those on an old gate that had rusted away. I was sub-contracting for a metal restoration company, and I'm afraid I've no idea where it ended up, but I like to think it was somewhere rather grand.

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    So, to start with, find a spot in your workshop that is comfortable, uncluttered and clean;

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    Preferably with an inspiring view;

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    Then trace your pattern onto your steel (in this case I used an existing leaf that i had flattened out);

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    Here it is traced out;

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    Here is the punch that I use to do the outline, it, like all my punches, is made from coil spring;

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    Here is the outline partially done;

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    And completed;

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    Then the rest of the details are penciled in;

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    Here it is with some of the surface detail added. you can see the two punches involved, one blunt and one somewhat sharp;

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    Which you can see better here;

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    Then works starts from the back;

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    Etc.;

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    The punches used from the back;

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    Then it's worked from the front;

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    And from the back again;

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    After going back and forth to my satisfaction (I can't remember if I normalized or not), the shap is cut out;

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    Using this carefully heat treated chisel (the punches are not heat treated);

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    And here's the lead I used to work on;

    A bit rough, but adequate for the job and to speed!
    Hope this is of interest to someone.
    -Dan

  17. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0764 Glass Bottle Hot Cutter
    by Trying-It and Jeremy K


    Jeremy makes a nice windproof type candle holder for tealight type candles.

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    The design does require a glass bottle with its bottom removed.
    Old method of bottle cutting used a glass cutter and candle flame to remove bottoms.
    New method is faster and fun to demo. Enjoy the show!

    The hot cutter uses a forged ring and handle; all sizes are user's option.

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    The only working dimension to consider is material size.
    In pic HG 5 notice that material is 3/4" diameter so actual cutting
    height will be 3/8" for this cutter.

    You want the cutter to be larger in size than any bottle size to be cut.

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    The next pic shows how to use the hot bottle cutter.
    For use cutter is held flat on anvil face.
    Bottle bottom is held flat on anvil face.
    Bottle is rotated against 1 point of circle's inner diameter, say 3 o'clock.
    After about 2 turns dip bottle bottom in a bucket of water.

    It helps to have someone hold the handle during the cutting process for stability and safety.

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    Get the ring portion HOT

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    Now let's cut some bottle bottoms off

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    First bottle can be cut with the bottle touching at 3 o'clock, the next bottle can be cut touching at 6 o'clock, the next at 9 and etc.

    Do NOT be surprised if a bottom cuts entirely off during process without water dunk.

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    A lot of bottles can be cut per single heat

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    Jeremy's latest design

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    Hope you enjoyed the BP and decide to give it a try yourself.

    Have fun and BE safe!!!

    (Thanks to Kyle my SIL for his assistance and daughter Mary for taking the pics.)

  18. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0759 Forge Build
    by caotropheus

    Build out of scrap material I had laying around, just bought the brake rotor at the scrap yard ($2) and the 4mm mild steel plate for the table.


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    The ruler is 40 cm long and sorry for the lousy welding.


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    06.jpg

    By the way, this was the "light sabre" I used to cut the metal...

    This was the first fire I lit for the picture. The pile of fuel I use is higher and always generously covers the piece I am heating. The forge works really well and the rod shown is a piece of round stock 12 mm, was red cherry in about half a minute. Now I am building small "gates" to close unused gaps I left in the frame surrounding the table top.

    The table top is 70 cm long x 50 cm wide

  19. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0766 Building a Forge fire pot
    by Swiftden



    Hello Everyone my names Allan and I'm from South Australia.
    What can i say this web site is an inspiration.
    I will be borrowing (stealing) ideas from everyone elses home made forges for my design.

    I decided it would be made out of 10mm(3/8") steel plate for the fire pot. I mocked up a template out of corflute.

    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/766/01.jpg

    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/766/02.jpg

    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/766/03.jpg

    Pot is 100mm(4") deep and 430mm(17") across.

    Well about 15 cutting wheels later on the 4" grinder and i had all my parts.
    I have tacked them together ready to start seam welding them up tomorrow.

    This is what i have so far :-
    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/766/04.jpg

    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/766/05.jpg

    The square in the bottom will not be welded in it is just tacked there to assist construction.
    I am not sure yet what i am doing for the blower hole i thought about putting in a clinker breaker but does that mean you dont then put in a grid? or do you have both ?


    Well got the inside and outside seem welded today. bowed the wide sides a bit but nothing a few belts with the sledge wont fix i think
    Also removed the square from the bottom

    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/766/06.jpg

    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/766/07.jpg


    Gday mate . I can post actual dimensions of pieces if it helps? Im still nutting out the clinker breaker for it. your welcome to copy it if it helps i don't know how it will work yet .
    It just worked out that way(design). It will have a lip welded all the way around yet.I made the sides first and attached them to a square and put a straight edge across the top of them and measured up from the base until i got 100mm (4") deep pot . seemed that was the best depth referred to by most. Then i just measured the gap between side to come up with the triangles. I could not work out how to do the side in one piece using the formula some have used but i thought the advantage was the my corners of my pot are not as sharp.

    Making a cardboard template really helps to visualize the end result.


    Got side tracked looking for steel today for the forge build. found this lump of steel and thought it might make a good temp anvil unless i find something better.
    It weighs 139kg (305lbs) have been told it is cast steel not cast iron not sure if that makes a difference or not . I think it was a weight of sorts on the back of a heavy machine.
    It is 28cm(11") tall, 83cm(32") across top, 70cm(27") at waist, the base half circle cut out is 15cm(6") across the bottom.

    It has two holes in the top one at each end which i assume were for locating pins.

    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/766/08.jpg


    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/766/09.jpg

  20. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0767 Bending Fork
    by Tubbe


    Started a little project a couple of weeks ago. I had a piece of round bar about 1,5" diameter, 4,5" long, laying around... I've looked at it many times, and finally one day, I threw it into the forge. I tapered down a shank (1") and popped it into my hardy hole and made the upsetting there. This is for a smaller anvil, and I noticed that the anvil actually heated up quite a bit, so be careful and cool the hardy hole bit of your anvil doing stuff like this. To fuller down the middle part I made myself a spring fuller from two pieces from a crowbar forged to shape and welded onto the "spring". Heat treated and all...
    Now I have to draw the fork part out a bit further and split it in two. Wonder what diameter I should aim for? I am thinking 5/8"-ish. It's mild steel, perhaps even larger.

    I'll try to hot cut the split. It's tempting to do that in the upright position in the hardy hole, but making a straight cut like that sounds impossible, or what do you think? Still, the plan is to do it horizontally from both sides...

    01.jpg

    02.jpg


    This tool is made to fit my large anvil with a 1,5" hardy hole. That's why I used a stump of square tubing as a shank...

    Quite hard work doing "heavy" stuff like this by hand and alone...





    The bending fork is ready for use! I think it turned out very nice.

    03.jpg

    It actually wasn't mild steel... when I made it ready for center punching for the split line, i quenched it, and it hardened up quite a bit... my center punch went "popp". Had to regrind that one. Thought I did spark test it from the beginning, must have been blind. So, for the final stage i just normalized it. Hope that's ok.

    It's a nice ring to it as well... probably could tune an instrument with it

  21. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0763 Fireplace Screen
    by Dave Custer
     


    It has been well nigh a year since I made a fireplace screen. The last one I made was the big 3 foot x 4 foot screen for a client in Louisville, last May. I sold the sample screen that I carry around to craft fairs, so I need another one for this years season. I stick with a small standard size for craft fairs. The price has to be kept down and the size needs to be standard to increase the chance of selling it outright at a show. The screen I am working on now is 2 feet tall at the center, and three feet wide. Front-piece material is 1/4"x1" flat bar. It is hammer textured and the joints are mig welded. The welds were ground, heated and textured over. Here are the pictures that show yesterday's progress.

    This is the design. Or does four sides drawn on a table count as a design? LOL The curve at the top took me some thinking to figure out. However, I finally cracked the method and got it drawn. Some of you may know what that straight line in the middle of the drawing was for!

    01.jpg

    I decided to let the top and lower bars extend past the side bars with flared upsets. I used an upset method I saw on Andrew Molinaro's promotional video.

    Double hammers while the piece is clamped in the vice! MAN that works GOOD! And it's a ton of fun! LOL


    02.jpg

    I spent 5 hours and 40 minutes on the screen yesterday. This includes "design" time, forging and fabricating, making a vice-held bending fork, and doing a few test pieces.


    03.jpg

    04.jpg

    At the end of the day!


    05.jpg

    So what do you think? How is my time compared to what I've gotten done? Am I working too slow or am I progressing at a decent rate? Be honest! If I'm slow, tell me. If no one tells me straight, I won't know where to improve.

    Fire away!

    The handles for the screen are 5/16" square stock. They are circular with a reverse twists and are forge welded. They turned out nicely, but the first pair I tried I wasn't paying proper attention and twisted BOTH the SAME way! So, back to the band saw and start all over again. Upset, scarf, center mark, twist, reverse twist.....whole lot of wasted time. However, it happens (to some dumbos like me it happens more often,) and regardless of whether or not it was wasted time it still goes into the time figuring for the screen.


    06.jpg

    07.jpg

    The handles are held on by two 1/4"x1/2" FB brackets. A matching flare is on the front side of these brackets and a simple chisel line runs down the center of the bracket.


    08.jpg

    09.jpg

    The feet were the killer. I burned up two of six pieces I cut for the legs. Two others I spent a heap of time forging out and then finally decided I didn't like them.

    Finally I decided on a matching upset flare like on the lower and upper firescreen pieces, with a center chisel line that matches the handle brackets.

    Sorry no pictures of that yet. I'm going to get back on it tomorrow and hopefully finish it out. Now I just have to make the backing frame (1/2"x1/8" FB,) and assemble everything.

    I spent another 5 hours and 30 minutes on it today bringing my total time up to 11 hours and 10 minutes. It looks like I'm going to have a 15-18 hour screen maybe.

    More progress on the screen yesterday. Now I have to rivet the back frame to the front frame. I should get that done tomorrow and I'll then post completed pictures with total time, materials, and intended price for professional review!

    This is the rear view of the screen frame. I added a lip as you can see. I like this lip as it hides the edge of the screen and it VASTLY improves the overall finished look of the screen IN MY OPINION! I certainly do not hold that MY method is THE method. A lot of awesome screens have been produced with no lip and they blow anything I think about producing, out of the water.


    10.jpg

    11.jpg

    This is my "cowhorn mustache" picture! hahahaha!


    12.jpg

    The handles!


    13.jpg

    14.jpg

    The feet are attached but I still didn't get pictures of them.


    15.jpg


    I went with 1/8x1/2" for the lip around the frame edge and the backing piece. I should have went heavier and next time I'll go with the 3/16"x3/4" as suggested.
    I've got a few visible welds which are the result of poor design and execution. However, they are on the back of the screen and are not in your face shouting "LOOK AT ME I'M MIG JOINT!" Little consolation I know!



    16.jpg


    17.jpg


    18.jpg


    19.jpg


    20.jpg


    21.jpg

    These are the visible welds! One behind the feet because I riveted the feet on BEFORE I riveted the back frame on, so I could not put a rivet down in the lower corners. One behind the handle brackets.


    22.jpg


    23.jpg

    My edges have this lip on it that hids the sandwiched screen and gives an overal finished look!
    24.jpg

    And that's all folks!

    Now this is the painful part. Timing and subsequent pricing!
    This screen took me 20.5 hours to complete. That includes all mistakes, tool making for the screen, test pieces, design, reruns....everything.

    I have $114 in materials. This includes grinding wheels, gas to pick up metal, coal, sandpaper,clear coat, raw steel, rivets.......everything that went into making the screen.

    I figured that up and to make $30.00 an hour (low balling compared to the advice I've been given on here and elsewhere) this is a $720 screen. OUCH! What was that someone was talking about on here??? Oh yes perceived value! I may have to give that a try! LOL

    Yes I know the price of chop and weld firescreens are. I wonder if potential customers do though! LOL I guess I'll find out this weekend. I'm going to a one day Italian street fair kown as the Knoxvill Opera. I've got to set up at 5 AM Saturday morning and demo from 10 AM till 10 PM. It's going to be a long day! It would make it worth it if someone bought the sreen! LOL Or ordered one. An order would be better because I have a show on the following weekend as well. It would be difficult to put together another screen in that time!

    Thanks for all of the kind complements. I do realize that I am not anywhere near on par with professional blacksmiths yet, but I enjoy my work, strive to work hard, and hopefully will improve with time and practice. I' love to be able to get an apprenticeship for a few months maybe this summer or during the upcoming winter. I believe I would advance much faster.

    I do like the personalization idea and it is one I will most likely adopt in the future. I think that would be a good selling point. Right now I do not have a letter stamp set which is unfortunate. However, as soon as I can get my trailer painted, I'll be caught up with expenses for a while and may be able to splurge a bit and buy some smaller tools.

  22. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0765 Bird Feeder Hook
    by Dave Custer

    As offered and as requested, here is a step-by-step tutorial of my heart-themed bird feeder hook.

    I should have mentioned this before, but these step-by-step instructions do not cover pieces I claim a copy right to. Anyone here is welcome to try to reproduce these piece. I encourage you to come up with your own variation and exercise your own imagination in your work, but if you are hard up for ideas, don't worry about copying what I'm doing! You are MOST welcome to try it.

    I sell this piece as a bird feeder hook. The idea is, the extended hook gets a bird feeder, or hanging plant, or dinner bell, or WHATEVER, away from the post, beam, or board the hook is mounted on.

    This tutorial will cover two variations of the bird feeder hook. One is a simple J-hook style and the general shape and forge work would be classified as a beginner level project. The second variation features a flared scroll type hook with a (supposedly) graceful curl down to the scroll. This might be classified as an intermediate level piece as it is much more difficult to get an even, "kink free" curve, than it is to make the simple "cut-n-dry" shape of the first variation.

    Step #1: Turn off the TV, hit the shop, and cut you a 20-inch piece of 3/8" round stock.


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01711.jpg

    Step #2: Mark a line with silver pencil or soapstone, 2-inches from the near edge of the anvil. Heat the end of the stock, place the end of the stock against the line, and step the metal to one side. You will use a half-on-half-off hammer blow to accomplish the step in your metal. Basically one side of the metal will "step" down and the other side will remain flat. In this entire process, keep the metal VERY hot the entire time. Just shy of welding heat is IDEAL. If you over-stress the metal from lack of heat, you WILL loose your heart. (The metal one that is!)

    Illustration of a half-on-half-off blow. (cold)


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01714.jpg

    During the process!


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01716.jpg

    The result!


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01719-1.jpg


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01720.jpg

    Step #3: Now center punch the stepped in side of the stock a couple of times. These will act as guide marks as you split the stock. Make sure they are in the center. I just eyeball it, but if you want, you can measure or use a center finder.


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01721-1.jpg

    Step #4: Next heat the end of the stock and using your center punch marks, split the stock with a chisel. HEAT IS KEY! LOTS AND LOTS OF HEAT! The heat must be, not only on the end of the stock, but back in the shaft behind the step on the end. Chisel up to the end of the step. A cherry red heat is NOT ENOUGH! BRIGHT red is the lowest you can go and ideally you need to keep it in the yellow to bright yellow range! I HIGHLY recommend a cutting plate for this job. I use 16 gauge sheet metal to protect the anvil face. Some people use copper! You may be the best "chiseler" in the world, but you WILL miss eventually and your anvil face will remind you forever. Spend ten cents and buy a cutting plate!


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01723.jpg

    Step #5: After you have chiseled completely through, use your hardy to seat the cut and spread the two prongs apart! Once again, LOTS AND LOTS OF HEAT!


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01725.jpg

    (That picture shows you the IDEAL working heat and location of that heat for the entire "split heart" forging process!)

    The result of this seating and spreading should look like this!


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01726-2.jpg

    Step #6: Next, one prong should be straightened and one should be curled back as shown below! Make sure you don't let the stock twist when you curl the prong back. It will try to twist, but keep it straight and again.....HIGH HEAT! Also, you'll probably have one prong that is a little bigger than the other. Bend the larger of the two out of the way and leave the smaller one straight. This makes it just a bit easier to get the prongs the same length. (This curl is called a convenience bend.)


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01727-2.jpg

    Step #7: Taper the straight prong using your preferred tapering method! Then make a mark on the anvil that designates the length of this prong. This mark is VERY IMPORTANT in making an aesthetically pleasing heart.


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01733.jpg

    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01735-1.jpg

    Step #8: Now bend the tapered prong out of the way and straighten the other prong. Once again, watch for twisting and DON'T let it happen. Lots of HEAT! Then taper out the prong. Taper the prong to the length of the mark you made. That way, it will be near the length of the other prong. When you are done tapering, straighten the first prong and hammer the two together.


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01736.jpg


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01737-1.jpg

    Step #9: Heat the two tapered prongs up, clamp the stock in the vice and use some needle nose tongs or pliers to begin shaping the heart. Use as many heats as you like, but try not to flex the base of the heart too much.


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01738.jpg


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01739-1.jpg


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01740.jpg

    Step #10: Now it's time to make the screw hole locations. I do two screw holes, and I space them far enough apart to allow my touchmark between the screw hole locations. I use a ball peen hammer to make my screw hole indentions, then I flatten a place between the two for my touchmark. I place my touchmark, straighten it all back out, and let it cool. AIR COOL!


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01741.jpg


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01743.jpg


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01744.jpg

    Step #11: After the metal is cooled, drill two 3/16-inch holes in your screw hole indentions. The advantage of the ball peen indention is that it eliminates the need for center punching or counter sinking your screw holes.


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01756-1.jpg

    This is where the variations come in. I'll do the simple version first and then the more complex one.

    Step #12: Taper the end apposite the heart.


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01757-2.jpg

    Step #13: Put a finial scroll on the tip. The scroll should face downward when the heart is facing upward. Then bend a hook on the tapered end. The hook should face upward when the heart faces upward.


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01762.jpg

    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01763.jpg

    Step #14: Bend this hook downward, approximately 90 degrees using the

    vise. (pictured cold)
    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01766.jpg


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01767.jpg

    Step #15: Now heat and bend the bar approximately 90 degrees, just below the last screw hole. This is done in the vise with the screw holes clamped in the vise. (again shewn cold)


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01768.jpg

    Step #16: Wire brush a apply bee's wax while hot.


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01773.jpg


    Now for the more difficult variation! Ignore steps 12-16 and pick up at step 11.

    Step #12: Flare the end of the bar apposite the heart. For a wide flare use the cross peen hammer. For a medium flare us the edge of the hammer face. For a small flare, simply flatten the end of the bar. Scroll the flare so that the scroll faces upward when the heart faces upward.


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01759-1.jpg

    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01760-1.jpg

    Step #13: Bend the hook at approximately 90 degrees, just below the last screw hole. Clamp the screw holes in the vise to bend as shewn.


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01768.jpg

    Step #14: Use a vise held bending fork to bend the bar, between the screw holes and the flared end, to a nice even curve. This takes practice so don't fret if your first isn't all that great. Work out any kinks and make sure the
    curve is even.
    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01765.jpg


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01761.jpg


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01783.jpg

    Step #15: Wire brush and apply bee's wax while hot.


    The end results!

    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01792.jpg


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01793.jpg


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01794.jpg


    http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn114/fiddlegirl89_photos/Dave/DSC01795.jpg


    And that's all folks! I welcome questions and comments. If something didn't make sense just let me know and I'll try to explain it better and/or get more pictures!

    Thanks!

  23. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0761 Anvil Hold Down
    by irnsrgn aka Jr. Strasil and Glenn Conner

     

     

     

    309.jpg

    Your anvil is dancing all over the stump.

    310.jpg

    Cut 4 short pieces of angle iron.

    312.jpg

    Drive a piece of angle iron into the stump at each foot in order to hold the anvil.

    The anvil is easy to remove from the stump, just pick it up.

  24. IForgeIron.com Blueprints
    Copyright © 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON.COM, All rights reserved.

    BP0768 Candle Cup
    by FireyFurnace
    Posted 23 June 2011 - 10:06 PM



    Ok so what?.....this makes the fourth candle cup I've made, so now I'm qualified to teach! Sure!

    Step number one! Select your material.

    Step #1: Get some pipe or tube or whatever in the the world it's called. The stuff I'm using is about 7/8-inch INSIDE DIAMETER material and rather thin wall.

    01.jpg

    Step #2: Stuff a rag or a wad of paper in the end you are holding. This will keep cool air in the pipe and not allow the hot flames and gasses to move up the pipe, heating the end you are holding.

    02.jpg

    Step #3: Heat the end of the pipe and fuller it. If you want your candle cups to be identical, then get a metal ruler, put masking tape at the length you want your candle cup to be, and then hold this ruler near the metal while you are starting your fuller. Fuller BEHIND the measurement, not on the measurement that you want your cup to be. (A fuller is a scisor tool that makes a thin spot in metal. I used mine under the treadle hammer.)

    03.jpg

    04.jpg

    (Pipe needs to be fullered at a bright red and can be worked down to a black heat. Rotate as you tap the fuller and use LIGHT blows or you will smash, not fuller the pipe. White heat is TOO HOT!)
    The result of the fuller looks like this, looking down the pipe! I used a 5/8-inch fuller!

    05.jpg

    Step #4: Now thin the edge of the candle cup using the horn tip. Keep the stock in line or level with the horn.

    06.jpg

    07.jpg

    Step #5: To begin the candle cup flare, angle the pipe upward as pictured below!

    08.jpg

    Your hammer should be impacting the steel as pictured below

    09.jpg

    Step #6: To make a rolled-top candle cup, hammer as picture below using a glancing blow that hits the metal and comes back towards your chest. (I would not recommend using an untucked unbuttoned shirt as you see me in.) Continue to guide the metal around until the thin tip has bend rolled around and tucked under forming a nice "bead" around the candle cup lip.

    10.jpg

    11.jpg

    Step #7: If you want a plain flared candle cup lip, skip step #6 and just dress the edges created in step number five.

    Step #8: To creat a rippled top candle cup, skip step #6 and #7 and do the following.

    After flaring the candle cup top, use scrolling tongs or tweezers to ripple the candle cup top. Grab the lip with the tongs and rotate downward. (Pictured below.) Move 180 degrees to the other side of the candle cup and do the same. Now rotate 90 degrees (or half way between the two ripples aleady formed,) and repeat. Move 180 degrees from the last ripple and do it again. You can leave it at that, or ripple between the four other ones. The key to keeping it uniform though is to move across the candle cup. Don't just start in one spot and go around.

    12.jpg

    13.jpg

    And if you are fast like me......

    14.jpg

    Just kidding! Speed has nothing to do with it......

    You will achieve this.......

    15.jpg

    Cut this off from the parent material in the mid point of the fuller. Drill the hole to size and tap or rivit onto your candle stand.

    DO NOT QUENCH PIPE!
    You should rarely quench metal, but never ever ever quench pipe or you might get a nice concentrated steam cannon in your face!
    Hope this helps! Now go make some candle cups!

    CurlyGeorge
    One suggestion to flare the end. Take the socket end of a tire iron and cut it off. weld the open end down to a hardy shaft or angle iron (for the vice), and it works a little better than the end of the horn. I use this method on all of my pipe candle holders and it works great for me. Give it a try. Nice looking candle cup, though.

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