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Steve Sells

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Posts posted by Steve Sells

  1. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved.

    BP0721 1940 Home Made Power Hammer
    by Andy Fitzgibbon
     

     


    This guided-helve power hammer was built in the 1940's by Steve Zentecki, a blacksmith from Chautauqua County, NY. Zentecki was an immigrant from eastern Europe who made tongs for Allegheny Ludlum Steel in Dunkirk, NY. The hammer is built entirely out of found objects and scrap metal. It is currently on loan to the Chautauqua County Antique Engine Association, for use in the blacksmith shop they have at their grounds.

    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/721/hammer01.JPG

    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/721/hammer02.JPG


    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/721/hammer03.JPG


    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/721/hammer04.JPG
    The anvil and hammer head are both made of old anvils. The head is rubber mounted using strips of automobile tire.

    http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/700/721/hammer05.JPG

    The hammer is driven by an electric motor, which drives a roller that can be brought in and out of engagement with an old truck wheel and tire. The truck wheel is mounted to the crankshaft of an old gas engine, which has its cylinder smashed off, its piston removed, and its crankshaft brought out vertically to drive the helve. The engine's flywheel had weights added to one side to create an impulse effect, and also has a brake that engages when the clutch is released.

    Take note of the wooden spoke wheel with the rubber tire. You do not see many of those now days.

  2. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0724 White marker on metal
    by Brian Brazeal

     

     

     

    Here is a trick I learned when I was in Austria with Alfred Habermann. Marking metal with a white charcoal pencil where you can still see the mark when it is orange hot. It is just like marking it with the "white out" used for correcting typographical errors. It shows up on hot metal, but it is less expensive and alot easier to use.

    P5210004.jpg

     

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    I like this method of marking alot better than marking with a center punch.

    Lyle bought this from Hobby Lobby, but Angele, a German supplier of blacksmithing equipment, sold them in Europe.

  3. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0723 New Forge Build
    by Jacques, South Africa

     

     


    I finished my new coal forge today, and will burn it in during the weekend.

    I do have a gas forge, but since I am trying to forge a lot more the expense of gas has made it difficult. And since I'm living close to the biggest coal fields in South Africa, coal is cheap. I can buy 350kg (770#) worth of coal for the price of one 19kg bottle of gas.

    The basic design considerations were:
    1. Must be mobile, since I am going to forge outside (so a chimney won't be neccesary)
    2. 600mm wide, must be able to go through a single door.
    3. cheap.

    The firepot were welded from 12mm (1/2") square bar, that I got as off-cuts with a discount from the metal dealer. The clinker breaker were also welded from square bar. The table were an old gun safe door that had some jigs welded to it that has been lying around for ages, the wheels come from the concrete mixer that got car wheels a while ago, and the other pieces were whatever I had lying around.

    I hesistated a bit about painting the contraption, since the paint will burn away, but realised that even the most beautiful woman in the world will put on make-up before going to work. And the paint will also hide my welding a bit. The primer is a fire resistant etch primer for stoves, and the black and yellow is a catalysed lacquer I had available.

    I still have to make some handles for the clinker breaker and the air gate, but I ran out of ideas, time and inspiration at the same time. For a blower I have got a very old Tedelex vacuum cleaner motor until something better come up.


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    Time:
    Making the tuyere, air gate, clinker breaker and ash dump, 15 hours
    Welding up the firepot, 5 hours
    Making the trolley, 15 hours
    Cleaning, painting and assembly, 10 hours

    Total cost were R200 ($20) for the square bar and R100 ($10) for the primer, of which I used about 1 cup.

  4. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0725 Pentles
    by Don A

     

     


    I’m trying to get a grip on the process of forging a pintle for a strap hinge. I know a couple different “cheats” to make a functional pintle, but I am trying to make an accurate reproduction from archeological examples of originals. I am having some success, but I still am not as confident as I would like to be.
    pintle_process.jpg

    I have done a fairly accurate drawing of the process I have come up with. Now, like everything else, it always looks better on paper.

    I can handle the part where the main stock is lapped back on itself. I’m using a tapered scarf, and there is plenty of meat there to get a good weld.

    The part I am struggling with is making sure the round piece is genuinely welded to the wrapped piece, not just “shrink-wrapped” or “friction-fit”. I want to be sure that the spike and the pin are homogenous. You will notice the gap I have labeled “VOID”. This is a recurring problem. But really, just getting a tight wrap on the first try is what I'm after.

    Remember that this ½” stuff is pretty hard to manipulate, and I generally have a problem with trying to “over tweak” a hot-fit piece. Every heat I take that is not fully utilized results in more scale, then more brushing, then more flux… eventually, my nice, clean weld surfaces are a mess, frustration sets in, etc., etc… you know the drill.

    Do any of you have any advice that would help me out here? I’ve got a bunch of these to do, and I’m taking way too much time.

    Ian
    If it was me I'd add a 'wedge' of material to fill the void. Do the wrap around and then insert the wedge, get it all up to a forgewelding heat and weld it up. Kind of like how axes were made many many moons ago. I saw a few examples in Sweden, made by a specialist in archeaological reproductions and based upon original viking finds. The wedge was discovered when the finds were X rayed.

    unkle spike aka Jeff Phillips
    Just a guess...what would happen if you used an "undersized" pin for the wrap, secure a good forge weld, then bring the eyelet to a good heat and drive the "correct" sized pin through it?

    Would that take up the "void".

    Sam Thompson
    That void is pretty common on 'everyday' ironmongery. I don't think they bothered much unless the work was of particularly important.
    The smaller pintles, like your second pic look like they were made from one piece.
    What are these for?

    easilyconfused
    What if you bent the drawn out portion 90 deg before wrapping the roundstock into it? That way you'd be able to weld the whole way upto the edge on a straight line. Then bend back so it sits right. May wind up with the void still though. I agree that it looks like the originals have the voids.

    Mark Aspery
    I take Sam's position - the gap is common place - and for good reason.

    When you weld a collar onto a bar (which in essence is what you are doing) there has to be a gap between the ends in order for the collar to close on the material and weld.

    No gap, no weld!!!!

    Sam Thompson
    I've always thought that for true period authenticity there should be some really badly made repro as well as all the high quality conscientiously made stuff. There have always been bad workmen. There are pintles like that in every other gate-post and many of them were very poorly made, some of them centuries ago. The welds on these often look like they have been blown apart by frost...Maybe water gets into the void.
    My house was built in 1709 and some of the hinges look as though they were reused. Only quality stuff survives but rubbish must have existed.

    John B
    Is the forge coal or gas ? In either case you will need a good long soak, voids are acceptable

    ThomasPowers
    Note too that the originals were made from real wrought iron which is much more soft and plastic at welding heat than modern steels.

    I've seen the wedge suggestion used for wrapped axe/hatchet eyes before; but on gates I've seen more with the voild left alone.

    bruce wilcock
    made them by the bucket ,for the farmers ,nearly cut the pin off the bar ,get a welding heat on the bar you are making the spike from about where the eye will be ,and a welding heat on the pin ,weld the pin on the bar a couple of taps will do to stick it on ,wring the pin of and wrap the bar around the stuck on pin all in the one heat ,back in the fire take a weld heat and over the edge of the anvil close the eye flip it over and shut the other side if the eye with working around the eye you will close the joint, then back in the fire take a weld heat a little further down the shank of the spike and shut it up ,cut of turn it round and hold the eye with a pr of bolt tongs dont hold the pin ,it isnt in line to draw the point ,then back in the fire a full welding heat and weld up and draw out the point , the first blacksmiths competition i won ,that was the job 2 welded gate pins and welded straps time allowed 1 hour ,with a striker, the pins were 3/4 ins and the eye was 1x 1/2 shoe iron .i was 17 year old .it was a open class so i was working with men ,my boss pushed me in and told me just think you are back at the smithy ,dont look at the crowd just get on with it , at the time we were making them at chance between shoing and shoemaking. i still have that prize card ,the judge was G Ransom the Ransoms were great plough makers ,so it means a lot to me ,learn to make them well and smartly you will never forget and it is a good usefull thing to make as a demonsration peice.

    Jymm Hoffman
    Don,
    Great drawings. I can not always get the gap to disappear, but frequently do with the following method: I add a step, after the shoulder and scarf, bend away from the shoulder and upset the corner a little. Then wrap back around, also helps to get the pin started on center. Do not close up completely, as welding a collar around a bar. I frequently make the welds diamond shape instead of round, as some of the originals. After you get a good weld, you can then knock the corners out (at a welding heat,) to make the part the hinge rides on round. Doing a batch of pintles this way now.

    Gerald Boggs
    My friend, every written source I have with information on pintles, show them with the "Void". If all those smiths in the past lived with it....?

    Don A Don
    Many thanks to each of you.

    Sometimes you just need some positive input to get back in the groove. Plain common sense is a good remedy for frustration.

    I've got 22 of these to do. I have already done the hinges. I'll post some pics when the job is done.

    I really appreciate it, Don

    By the way, I think I am going to take a cue from our bladesmithing brethren and test one of these "to destruction", just to see what kind of weld I am achieving.

    I also went to the trouble of ordering 1018 for the pintles, instead of using hot-rolled.

    steveh steveh
    Jerry Darnell has excellent videos on making strap hinges and pintles.He upsets the end on an angle of about 60 degrees then turns it over on the edge of the anvil right behind the upset then puts 2 vees in the stock.Then he puts the vees on the horn and hammers it concave,this is where the round stock is wrapped.The upset part has the material to fill the void.Weld together,take another welding heat and weld the bottom while in the vice.Another welding heat and using a header flatten where the hinge will sit,draw out the point.I hope I have explained it for others to understand,I got the video from Centaur Forge.The pintles end up looking like they were made from one piece.

    I was wondering if any others have seen Jerry Darnells tapes or seen him demo his strap hinges or pintles.

    Alwin
    If I wanted to eliminate the V in the pintle, I would figure the circumference of the pin first. Then, I would take the steel I would use to wrap it and scarf the end. I would bend at a right angle maybe an inch back from the end of the scarf. From that bend I would measure back the circumference of the pin minus about 1/8 inch, and then make another right angle bend. If you hold the spike material up, both bends should cause the material to go in the same direction (it should look like an u with both ends pointing up. Next, I'd bend that center section into a loop. Basically I'd make a collar that was about 1/8 of an inch from closing all the way. That way as you weld it on the material stretches to the size that fits the pin exactly all the way around. Depending on how hard you hit when you weld you might need a little extra space, maybe up to 3/16 of an inch so that it fits exactly when welded.

    Matt in NY
    I have been checking the pintles I have hanging around as well as looking over the hinges.

    Most have that wedge, the only one that dosen't appears to have been punched! All but one was in a diamond shape.

    The hinges are interesting also. I have been looking at the welds here and there. I put a bunch of them together today and looked them over comparing them.

    Some were very plain but very solid looking welds. Some had a fair amount of work in them but were not even welded! Some looked like they came from a jr high shop class; no weld and not even wrapped too tight. But, it probably did the job. Well it did since I took it off the door it was on. So much for only quality stuff surviving! This barn was from the 1700's

    These hinges ranged from 6 inches to over 4 feet in length.

    Something I never noticed before: all the top hinges, and pintles were larger than than the bottoms.

    I have a set of double barn doors that have 4 different hinges!

    I think that there must have been local variations in hinges etc as well as those that were a mark of a certain smith. Just because we see a picture of something from a certain time dosen't mean that was how they were all done. I know, I'm preaching to the choir.

    Good luck with those pintles.

  5. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0722 Log Carrier
    by Glenn Conner



    As we get into fall and cooler weather, we think about building a fire to warm the home. This means we have to cut, stack, and then carry wood into the home and build a fire in the fire place or wood stove. I can not help you with the cutting and stacking, but I have found a better way to carry the wood.

    Start with some welding rod. The old stuff, the rod that has drawn moisture is fine. Rods I used were 14 inches long which is about right for this project. Coat hangers are a little small and bend easily so try to use any rod of 1/8 inch diameter or so.

    DSCF9513.JPG

    Knock the flux off the welding rod.

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    Bend a loop on the end of the rod. I used the depth of the pliers jaw as a guide line so they would all be about the same.

    DSCF9498.JPG

    Straighten the loop up so the end of the loop and the rod are about parallel.

    DSCF9496.JPG

    Form up both ends of 5 or 6 rods in this fashion.

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    I went to the resource center (scrap pile) and found a couple of pieces of chain from a kids swing set. I left 24 inches of the vinyl on the center portion of the chain and removed the rest. I then tied the two pieces of chain together using bailing wire (or tie wire). This would form a large circle.

    DSCF9500.JPG

    I pulled the circle into an ellipse. This was the prototype so I hooked the welding rod into about the center of the oval and closed the loop so the chain would not slip out.

    DSCF9501.JPG

    Hook to about the center of the other side of the oval and crimp closed. I then skipped 4 links (8 circles) and hooked a welding rod into the chain again.

    DSCF9502.JPG

    This was the finished prototype with 4 welding rods as spacers to hold the chain apart.

    DSCF9507.JPG

    To use, just lay the log carrier on the ground and place logs on the carrier so they overlap the chain.

    DSCF9505.JPG

    Now lift and carry.

    The heavy canvas log carriers last about one winter. They are rather warn and tattered by spring as we use a lot of wood.

    The beauty of this design is once you have carried the wood to where you want it, just swing the load toward where you want the wood stacked and drop the handle that is further away. The wood will almost self stack.

    Design number two:

    The swing chain works very well as does the carrier. But I thought could be made better by using a lighter weight chan. I went to the resource center (scrap pile) to try to locate some jack chain. Jack chain is formed by bending heavy wire into a figure 8, linking one to the next. You see this for holding industrial lighting and other places.

    No jack chain but I did locate another type chain with 1/4 inch diameter stock used to make the links.

    DSCF9513.JPG

    Knock the flux off the welding rod.

    DSCF9508.JPG

    As the links were larger, I put 2 pieces of 1/4 inch round bar in the vise and used this as a bending fork to make the loop on the end of the welding rod.

    DSCF9509.JPG

    Bend the loop so the end and the rod is about parallel. This worked really well and I made 5 or 6 spacers before I realize it.

    DSCF9511.JPG

    It fit well on the links of the plastic chain. Yes I was going high tech and light weight using what was available in the resource center (scrap pile).

    DSCF9512.JPG

    Bend the rod down so the link will not slip out of the spacer.

    This is where the batteries in the camera gave up.

    From the prototype, I found for me, my height, and the weight I could carry easily, I needed 8 feet of chain. I cut the chain to length and wired the ends together. From the wire connection, I measured 4 feet and used that as the center link on the other side of the oval to attach the hook of the welding rod. This time I spaced the welding rods at 4 inches apart, hooked them into the chain and bent them so the chain would not slip out.

    The plastic chain log carrier was easier to use than the swing chain as it was easier on the hand when you were carring a lift. I was able to use both chain log carriers with full load easily and could move almost as much wood in one lift (trip) as I could move with a wheel borrow.

    The trick is to use the welding rod to keep the chains apart and to adjust the length of the welding rod so that a couple inches of wood extends beyond the chain. All that dirt, dust, and wood chips stays at the wood pile and is no longer brought into the house.

    Ask a blacksmith to build something and usually he will improve on the design, and build it to last. I suspect I will be using this set of chain log carriers for many winters to come.

  6. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0727 Making a ring
    by Brian Brazeal

     



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    This is the same as forging larger stock. I am using 1/4" round stock, and I marked it at 3" to show how much material I'll be isolating. I'll only be using a little over 1/2" to make the ring. First I isolate about 1/4" with a far-side half hammer face blow on two sides. Then where that taper stops I'll isolate from the rest of the rod with near-sided half hammer face blows on the other two sides. I'll forge back and forth on either side of the anvil and forge a square bar, then forge that round. Flatten the end out to form a pad, then round that up. Chisel the pad. Mark with round eye punch. Fuller petals. Forge with round eye punch. Forge a square then to round taper with near sided half hammer faced blows. Bend on round rod. Twist it off.
     

  7. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0726 Log Tongs
    by Frosty

     

     


    I've been reading a couple chapters in the CDL manual over and over and over because I need a school bus endorsement. Well,I don't need to do that too many times and I need some serious decompression.

    Then there's the fact that summer is rapidly coming to an end here in the far north west and I need to start dragging some firewood logs in. Sometimes wrapping a cable or chain around a log is a major hassle so I forged this up yesterday and today.

    Log%20tong%2002.jpg


    Log%20tong%2003.jpg

    Stock: two each 22" x 1/2" x 1" rec. and two each 10" x 1/2" rd.

    Pivot hole punched 1/2" and riveted with a washer between the legs.

    Ring holes punched and drifted to 5/8"

    Rings turned, arc welded and ovaled to keep welds on straight sections.

    I'll paint it a bright color and grind the points sharp tomorrow and let you know how it works when give it a try later.

  8. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0728 Making a simple rolling die fixture.
    by Grant Sarver

     

     

     

    Well, I pondered this back before a lot of you were born. Here’s what I came up with. If you look at the drawing you’ll see it’s simply a box frame with two half-rounds captured. It consists of a four-sided frame with a floor. The half-rounds just sit loose inside the frame. Spacers are shown, as sometimes you need to make width adjustments depending on work thickness, the diameter of the half-rounds or the bend radius (you move them apart for larger radiuses).

    Probably the first thing people build after they get their press going is a little “V” bending fixture. Usually weld a couple angles or round bars down and press stuff down in between them. First thing they notice is the backside gets a little scarred up. Next they notice that the material stretches out thin around the bend. Usually they just chalk it up as normal evils of the process.

    Nomar01.jpg
    Nomar02.jpg

    Use spacers as needed as shown by the arrow.

    I used to have a setup like this that consisted of a box fabricated from 2” plate and was about 24” square. The rolling blocks were 10” diameter. With this setup in my 100-ton hydraulic press I could bend really heave stuff. One time I (hot) formed 4” 4140 24” wide on a 2” radius nearly 180 degrees. Ten years ago I was getting $400.00 each for those. A similar setup for a small press might use a box six-inches square with 2” half rounds. Really worth taking the time to fabricate one of these. No reason a guy couldn't make a miniature setup for a small press either. Note that the one pictured uses a loose round bar in combination with a shallow "V" top die. Full round bars can also be used to advantage in the box as they will also rotate, unlike the welded down ones. EDIT: The thinning in the bend that you get bending round stock is mostly on the inside caused by the "pusher" tool. Best way to minimize thinning on round stock is to use an inside form tool like they use on pipe benders to cradle the work. Just a little bit of the “S.T.O.C.K.”* *(Stuff The Old Coot Knows)

    This method produces three benefits that I’m aware of. One, the backside of the work stays perfectly smooth, even round bars have enough bearing to avoid flat spotting almost entirely. Two, the work doesn’t stretch as thin in the corner. With the angle setup, when you start pressing, the part digs in to the angles hindering it from sliding and scarring the backside. The rolling dies move with the work. Third, it effectively increases the power of your press, really! The rolling blocks “give way” as the ram advances requiring a relatively longer stroke. The same force applied over a greater distance is the principle of leverage.

  9. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0728 RR Anvil
    by Garey Ford
     

     

     

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    A piece of shipyard gantry crane RR rail 27" long marked out to cut into an ASO ( anvil shaped object)

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    Tail of rail marked to cut

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    Horn of rail marked to cut

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    horn of rail rough cut to shape

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    Tail of rail rough cut to shape

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    Holes cut in the feet for bolts. Starting to look like an anvil now

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    Top view of rough cut rail

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    Let the Grinding Began. Grinding the horn to shape

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    MORE grinding on the horn

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    Starting the grinding on the tail

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    MORE grinding on the tail

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    About done with the grinding

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    Anvil on stand

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    Working a billet on the R R Rail anvil. Anvil has good rebound and is handy as a demo anvil. weight is 110 # . 27" long and 4&1/2" wide.

  10. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0730 Scarf for a forge weld
    by Mark Aspery



    I started this thread as a result of posting on a similar thread. I thought the subject warranted its own start.

    There are many different types of scarf for forge welding. Some are regional (Germanic, UK or USA) and others favor a fuel source (coal, coke or propane) Still more are personal preferences. They all work, given the required practice!

    Please feel free to offer your own renditions and why they work.

    I favor the technique outlined below. It is the one that I have practiced and become familiar with and it is very user friendly for students. With more experience, you may change this scarf slightly by forming the step over a round edge and increasing its depth somewhat.

    Let’s examine some hypothetical welds so that we can draw some conclusions as to what works and what might not. Looking at figure 1. From which direction should the hammer blows come to ‘make’ this weld. From the direction indicated by the arrows right?

    Looking at photo 1b now, ask the same question. From which direction should the hammer blows come to ‘make’ the weld? Again, from the direction indicated by the arrows.

    Let’s draw a conclusion from those two examples. The hammer blows need to come from a direction approximately 90 degrees to the surfaces to be welded. Hammering in the direction of the arrows in the third photo will not result in a weld, you would be hitting in the shear plane if you followed the arrows in!

    Looking back at photo 1, the ends of the bar are in line with the force of the hammer. They are in the shear plane. Unless they are hammered in such a way as to knock the vertical surfaces over to the horizontal they will not weld and will leave a crack (as shown in the graphic 'In plane end'). Cracks will appear along the shear plane and the weld will be compromised.

    In the photograph 'welding plane 3' you can see that the ends have been tapered (3 sides) so that the toe of the scarf is almost non existent - negating the shear problem.

    The next photograph shows a lap weld (cold) The toe of the scarf is sloped and narrower that the bar to which it will be welded. This will save you having to deal with those pesky wings that you can get.

    The last few photographs are a repeat of a thread that was posted a little while ago - looking at a weld hot and the rights and wrongs of a weld.

    You will not weld if the bar appears 'Crusty' either coming out of the fire or upon the anvil.

    Spending too long on one side can often chill the underside to a point where it may not weld in.

    There is also a photograph that shows a weld being supported by a frame originating in the pritchel hole.

    All comments are germane.
     

     

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  11. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0731 Scraper
    by Kevin of CT
     

     

     


    I am sort of on light duty, surgery a week ago.
    today I was able to make a simple fuller scraping tool, and it works really well.
    It is simple, it is ugly, it is sturdy, it is something that someone who has a minor grasp of forging grinding and heat treating can make, and most of all...
    it WORKS.

    scraper001.jpg

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    So:1. take a half-round file, heat it bend it so you can put pressure on it with hand clearance, and rock it to get the optimal cutting angle.
    2. grind a bit (whatever shape you want your fullers to be) on the end, with flat side doing the cutting.
    3. Heat treat - leave really HARD
    4. Clamp something for a guide to follow until you have a good channel started
    5. Fuller away.

    Sure, there are better ones, but this will give you the ability to make fullers while you learn. As long as the fuller you want follows a straight line, you can set up some sort of guide to get you started.

    its a true scraper. The flat side of the "bit" is smooth and at a slight angle off of perpendicular. I see what you mean though, and in fact, the round side with the teeth may be useful for cleaning out later, but I think I probably ground them too much for that.

    I am holding it with flat side of bit bitting into metal at about 60 degrees, and the flat side of bit is smooth and sharp. But, you are right that it may have worked with a filing action if i had left teeth on.

    Now that I have thought about it (thanks to you), next one I will try to leave teeth on the back side, to use for cleaning the groove out and finishing. (I will have to make one for every shape of channel that I want to cut).

  12. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0732 Scrolls and Collars
    by Brian Brazeal

     


    Collarring is the most efficient means to join 2 or more pieces of metal together and form structures that I have ever seen, and it is also the simplest. The technology is basic and straightforward. As long as there are at least 3 connecting points per scroll you will form a rigid structure with nothing more than the collars. Collars can be made and installed in one heat, or you can make the "U's" up in one heat then install them later in another heat. It never takes more than two heats unless you are forge welding them.

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    Here are some examples of collarring, and I'll go and take some pictures of the tooling and post them if you are interested.

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    Here's the tools.

    The tool on the anvil is just a 12" piece of 1"x2" with 2 pieces of 1"x2" three inches long with two 1/2" rods through each piece holding it all together with a hardy stem welded to it. So, it makes a 6" gap that you can create any space you need with the other pieces that fill the gap. Plus you have the pieces that stick up to support your collar being formed with your driving tool. The other picture shows some different driving tools and some collaring tools for laying out and installing several collars while your pieces are assembled, like the trivet above. Next to that are scrolling jigs that will make a C-scroll that will touch.

    These tools are pretty barberic, but that's what I came up with several years ago when I had to do my first collarring job. Sorry about the rust. My shop is outside.

    Those collars were fullered with different fullers while they were just bar stock, then I cut them to length and made them into collars with the collarring tool. You can do all kinds of different designs. The math just has to work out. Collarring is very precise and that is what makes it so simple. It's just math, and you have to make the peices fit.

    Those pieces are for holding a specific size collar, like for most of those trivets, and they are drillled and tapped on the other side so I can secure them on a table so I can assemble the whole trivet then close the collars. The gate was done the same way, but in sections because I didn't have all the different sizes. There are standard sizes that you will use when you are collarring, and when I settle down and can afford it, I'll be able to show more of what can be done with this technique. I have done them one at a time in a vice in the past, but it is a waste of time, and when you get bigger than that trivet, it can be unweilding.

    double_edge2
    one of the things i first got told, was a forge is like a mill or lathe, make the tools for the things you wish to repeat for the best result. i have yet to see this teaching faulted. the other bit was there is an order or sequences for, without and with tools, learn them both. thanks for showing and sharing your extremely nice work, skills and timeless methods.

    brianbrazealblacksmith
    that is a nice way of describing it. I've never heard it put that way.

    by brianbrazealblacksmith

    Collars can be made and installed in one heat, or you can make the "U's" up in one heat then install them later in another heat. It never takes more than two heats unless you are forge welding them.

    John B
    Whilst appreciating all your comments and advice and enthusiasm, I feel that the above is a sweeping statement and would like to point out that that may be true for the smaller collars you illustrate, or define collars as simply making a U and then closing it (and there is no shame in taking more than two heats) but there are many more that require more than two heats for various reasons, ie shaped profiles, or using larger materials that require definition of edges etc (usually down to the 'smiths requirements as well as the clients)

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    I have attached a couple of pictures to illustrate the point, , The "chunky" ones are from at least 1" x 3/8" which even with tooling under a flypress usually take more than 2 heats to produce the clean corners.

    I do admire your work and attitude towards the craft, and wish I could get to your demos. However as that is very unlikely I will continue to look forward to and appreciate your contributions on this site and providing a lead for others to aspire to.

    Brian

    Ok, I guess I'll have to qualify that even further by saying it takes more if you want to decorate or form those hard corners, but the thicker the collar, like in the case of the 3/8", the easier it is to accomplish in one heat. At least that has been my experience. I have a little more time to work the larger stock, and as far as installing the collars, there is no difference if they are thick or thin, it's the same steps. But you are absolutely correct JohnB, any extra work will take extra work.

    thingmaker3
    why do you use scroll jigs that can make a C-scroll that will touch? I remember these jigs from the Tips & Tricks thread, but the "why" part is indeed an interesting question.

    Brian

    I'm glad you asked.
    there are several reasons. I hope I don't leave any out.

    First, it creates a structure by itself when you attach a collar to it like a circle. Also, the design possibilities with the C-scroll are much more extensive than with the S-scroll. Look at the Bee gate, those are all variations of C-scrolls except for the veins in the wings. The circles are even C-scrolls in a way.


    The jigs I make can make S-scrolls, but any jig can. I make them where I can cut a known length of stock and form a C-scroll where my jig does not interfere with the second side of the scroll. This allows me to cut my 20 foot bars where I don't create scraps. Also, the math that reveals itself to you is pretty amazing. For instance, when I make those trivets with three 24" scrolls, they fit in a 12" circle, and when I make 32" scrolls, they fit in a 16" circle, and when I make 36" scrolls they fit in a 18" circle.... Also, two 24" scrolls fill the same area as one 36" scroll, so by using 36" of material instead of 48" of material, I can fill the same space but use one less foot of material. This adds up real quick. The 32" jig will make a scroll that a 4" ball will not fit through. You'll have to add something like in the picture for the 36" scroll so a 4" ball will not fit through.

    Three of these scrolls when placed together, form an equalateral triangle, and I'm not even going to go into what you can do with that. 4 will make squares and rectangles. 5 or more can make circles or octagons....

    I'm probably leaving some things out, but chew on that for awhile and try it out. I've only scratched the surface with what I've done with it.

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    Here are some other examples of what I had laying around.

    HWooldridge

    Very impressive and informative, Brian - you have a gift for clear explanation and teaching so I hope you continue to take the time to educate those of us fortunate enough to visit this site and soak up the knowledge. I love scrolls and use them a lot in my work but confess I rarely collar anything; usually it's just weld with the MIG, grind and paint - so nothing I make will ever be mistaken for 17th century work.

    However, I don't use collars for a specific reason and that is because so much of my work goes outside, where moisture can get under the pieces and cause rust. I have yet to find a way to get a sealant, paint or inhibitor into those crevices to prevent rusting, which often starts soon after installation. One of the first public pieces I ever made is at our church and now over 25 years since it left my anvil - the piece had collars and I get to see it every Sunday. Even though I sandblasted it and used a Sherwin Williams rust inhibitor under a commercial clear coat, the entire piece is now rusted from spots that started under those collars, so I would say they definitely have their place and they provide a traditional look but are not perfect for all applications. This is not a criticism of your post but simply a comment on general collar usage.


    brianbrazealblacksmith

    HWooldridge, you're right about the rust.

    Minotaur

    Do you scarf the ends. If you do, do you do it with the decorated collars as well? Just out of curiosity, is the outer ring on the trivet forge welded?

    brianbrazealblacksmith

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    brianbrazealblacksmith

    I sometimes scarf the ends of collars, but usually I just butt them. I don't even clean up my cut ends that I cut with my shear. [see pics]
    I do not forge weld the circles. They are just butted up also.

    pkrankow
    When you make your jig, how do you go about setting up the clean curves? Do you lay out your marks then use a spline or french curve? I imagine that the jig is the first part to get "right" making it critical. Is there an easy way to calculate your line length, or are you using advanced math for that? Or do you make it larger than needed then cut it down after measuring it with a tape rule?

    divermike
    I'm finally at the stage where scrolls and collars are no longer so intimidating, but I have had a bit of problem getting the scrolls to touch in a uniform fashion, the ends come rather easy, then when trying to get the center heated and shaped, and a consistant curve, that's where I run out of luck, the scroll jig does not work for this, and none of my other tooling works, I guess I need a clamp table, and have to tack on a piece already arched for that purpose to clamp to?? seems like a lot of tooling, but if you are making 50 of these I can see the point, as a hobbyist, I just don't have that kind of volume, or space in my shop, however if we could get some more pics of various types of jigs etc, maybe some shortcuts will come to mind, thanks for all this Brian, look forward to taking a class from you.

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    brianbrazealblacksmith

    I started making my first jigs a long time ago with the golden mean scroll, but I didn't like it because they didn't touch. So to get a jig that would make a C-scroll that touches, I simply make a scroll jig with 1/2" thick material that I form hot on my golden mean jig. If I make a jig for someone else, I use 1/4"x 1" and form the tapered end hot [on the jig that will make a C-scroll that touches]. I just fit it to the jig until it grabs it, then let it air cool, and then after it's cool, I wrap it the rest of the way cold. When you wrap it cold it springs back to the same scroll as your jig. When you wrap it hot it make a scroll that is different from your jig. Now to make different sizes, I just have to do what I just described on the jig I just made and so on, and they get bigger every time you make another off your previous one. Or I can use my 8 foot golden mean jig and make smaller ones by wrapping it with 1/2" material. The ones in the picture were made that way, and you can see one that hasn't been cut off yet.

    outsider
    OK so i have a question about this and it's so basic it prolly dose not even belong here but i have read this whole topic and the work is amazing so i have to ask.

    so now i'm a beginner at this with like a cpl weeks of actually doing any kind of blacksmithing work and i see the touching "C" scroll jigs but what i do not think i understand is how the jig works, do you heat and bend as you feed into the center of the jig or is there some other way, i'm sure ya'll are shaking your heads at this but i ask to learn since i have not had any training at this work so far but i am working on that but not till Jan.

    brianbrazealblacksmith

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    Bryce Masuk
    So your using the golden ratio or a true logirthmical Sprial and slightly adjusting it? I still cant entirely see how you can make the c scroll without having to pull the one other end above the jig a bit this is a problem I have ran into quite abit when making c scrolls i just use the dog fork or whatever you like to call it and tweek it abit. I havent actually tryed to make a scroll that is a golden mean scroll all of mine are "special" they dont look nearly as nice as yours. Looks like its time to work out a drawing and make some more jigs.So when you talk about the length of the scroll this is the length of the flatbar as a cutsize for that section correct? Seems like your system is worth understanding in many ways, I will do my best to use the information given to best of my abilitys lol

    brianbrazealblacksmith
    Bryce, I started with the golden mean scroll and made my jigs from it. When I first was trying to make a jig that would make a C-scroll that would touch, I made a jig with 1/4" material off of the golden mean jig and that wasn't enough, so I made another one off of the new one, and that did it. Now, for different sizes, I know I can just make jigs off of my 8 foot golden mean jig with 1/2" material. The one's above in the picture that aren't rusty were made that way for the split scroll piece next to the jigs.
    The number on the jigs is the length that I cut the barstock, and the jigs do not interfere with the second half of the C-scroll. I know what you are talking about when you have to lift up to avoid the other half of the scroll, and that is why I say, "I make my jigs so they will make a C-scroll that touches." I would have taken pictures of making a C- scroll, but my things are already packed and ready to go.

    IanR
    Just wanted to say thank you for your posts, they are always informative and well presented. It's through contributions by people like yourself that make this site such a wonderful resource for those of us still learning the craft. I'm reasonably confident with my scrolls but have yet to try collars, I have a couple of projects that I would like to use them in and your information will help me.

    brianbrazealblacksmith
    Thanks, for the kind words. I think you'll like collarring. If you run into any problems, let me know.

  13. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0733 V shaped Swage Tool
    by Steve Sells


     


    swage.jpg

    Swage block
    This is a simple swage block for folding, and for making clean 90 degree bends, an Anvil is normaly used to make bends, but this allows a cleaner, square outside to the bend than the edge of an anvil gives. I don't use this very often.

    If you try to weld just on the anvil the cable just flattens out.

    When welding cable damascus, lay the hot cable into the V. When you hit it with a hammer you actually get three (3) impact points, one from the hammer, one from the left side of the swage, and one from the right side of the swage.
     

  14. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0734 Thumb Screws
    by Glenn Conner
     

     


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    One of the machines I use has a part whose adjustment must be changed often. These thumbscrews are used to tighten and lock the part into place. Because there is a small surface to hold on to, they sometimes do not get properly tightened.

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    The hardware store had the proper size bolts (5/16 inches by 2 inches all thread). The same bolt could be used for both the long and the short adjustment thumbscrew.

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    So I went to the resource center (scrap pile) and located some short sections of 1/4 inch round bar.


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    The ends were rounded on the grinder and making sure there were no burrs or sharp spots. Cut 6 pieces all to the same lenght (one for each bolt). The length was determined by the shortest piece I could find, as well as what fit my hand.

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    Then just tack weld the round bar to the bolt head.

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    The uneven distance gives the thumb something to hold against and the three fingers something to pull against. It is a much better design than the flattened bolt head.

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    The new thumbscrew that can easily be tightened without hurting the fingers. It holds the part securely at the selected adjustment. There is no more movement until you need to make an adjustment change, which greatly improves the accuracy of the machine.

     

     

     
  15. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0735 Hammer / Tong Rack
    by Chris Jones, aka Hammerkid


    I was needing a hammer/tong rack for the shop. And I found a old rack out of a freezer and had some 1"x1"x1/8" angle .




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    So I built a frame and tacked the rack inside the frame and made 2 mounts to built it to the wall. Its nothing fancy but should do the trick.

    who said Blacksmiths were not very environmentally friendly? LOL

  16. IForgeIron Blueprints

    BP0736 Tongs
    by Brian Brazeal

     


    I was ask about the tongs I use for making hammers. I took some pictures of the steps. These are similar to Alfred Habermann's pick up tongs.

    I started with 2 pieces of 1/2" coil spring 8" long.
     

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  17. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0738 Wrench Modifications
    by Iron Antler Forge

     

     

     

     

     

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    Here is an old adjustable wrench that I turned into a an adjustable bending fork by adding a couple pieces of 1" round to the back. I also extended the handle to about 20".



    Mike Ameling
    I've been using variations of the old "monkey wrench" for years. They work great. Some I modified the existing jaws by rounding the edges. Some I extended the existing jaws by welding on spring steel extensions. You just have to be careful to not extend things too far.

    The other major modification is to weld on an extra handle from the top of the wrench. This gives you two hands when twisting/bending. And more "even" force -- like when twisting square stock. Leaving flat areas in the original jaws also helps with that twisting of square stock.

    I also often clamp my "monkeywrench" in my vice to use the jaws as a stationary bending fork with adjustable spacing. They are great to have several floating about the shop. I even occasionally use one to hammer with (like when under a vehicle tinkering up some repair and a real hammer is not handy). And I keep one in my pickup all the time, with the other assortment of tools - one with an all metal handle. Yes, I often abuse it as well. They come in a whole range of sizes.

    Great project. You will be surprised at how much use you will get out of it.

    I've also ... bent ... several in use. Even one of the BIG ones! OK, there was a pipe involved for extra ... leverage. They will take a lot of abuse, but sometimes we push their limits.


    Arftist
    This is a good and original idea. If it is possible to point something out, without being a spoilsport though, I would like to say that I have bent this type of wrench when pulling sideways instead of in the direction they are designed to resist. Once bent, they are useless, as they can no longer be adjusted. If one were to weld the prongs on the side of the jaws instead of the back of the jaws, the bending danger is avoided.

  18. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0739 Tumbler
    by Iron Antler Forge



     

     

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    I just put this tumbler together using a 55gal drum that I had. It works very well! The large #8 chain not only turns the barrel with ease but also vibrates the media inside in addition to tumbling it.

    The barrel is a thick heavy grade plastic. It used to hold floor wax. I chose plastic because I thought it would be quieter and hold up better than the steel drums. That being said, with the chain it's pretty noisy.

    The chain is held on using compression. I put on a 2" x 1/8" strip around the drum and then wrapped the chain around that. I then squeezed the heck out of it until the two ends of the chain came together. I then put 2 pop rivets into the strip just to keep it from sliding.

    The media I'm using is very fine glass beads because I like the high luster finish. It's important to give the work a couple day soak in vinigar to remove all the oxide so that the media will have an easy go of polishing.

    I have 3 fins inside made from the plastic concrete edgers that you can buy at Home Depot. I like them because they have reinforcing supports that run the whole length.

    I don't think this was a question but I'm using an industrial sewing machine motor to power the tumbler. I got it off Ebay and chose it because it has 2 ways of achieving different speeds and came ready to work with an on/off switch, rubber mounts, bolts, and adjustable belt tensioner attached.

    The barrel is held down using gravity alone. That's another nice thing about using gears to bite the chain as apposed to a belt which has to loop both around the barrel and a pulley. With the chain you can just grab hold of the barrel, lift it off, and you don't have to worry about undoing any belts or things of that nature. That being said, big chain may be hard to stumble on and if your looking to buy one the belt is a much cheaper option. Of course with the belts you don't get the cool Mad Max look...

  19. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0740 One Person Slit and Drift Holder
    by Jeff Phillips aka Uncle Spike



    Holding a piece of hot stock between your knees while trying to slit and drift it is NO FUN.....

    My Pritchel on my anvil is 1/2" so when I was trying to slit and drift a hole in 3/8" round stock it wanted to drive into the hole, and contort to every angle but what I wanted, and it was a bugger to try and hold.

    So I came up with my version of a solution.....

    Start with this tool I showed earlier:

    One man spring loaded holddown

    I had to add "legs" to it to make it the right height and keep it from turning.

    And then I built a base specifically for 3/8" round stock, I drilled a hole one 25/64" (one drill size over 3/8") in a piece of 3/8" thick plate.

    I then took my 4" grinder with a cutter wheel, and scored a line across the center of the hole, then I ran a regular grinding wheel down that slot. You want this to be narrower than the stock, so the edges of the slot "grip" the stock. I put a corresponding slot in the top tool, as I didn't have one that lined up.

    I centered that plates hole over the pritchel and added the side pieces to keep it square over the pritchel hole. This bottom plate isn't held down, but a tap on the end of it with a hammer brings it back over the hole. It does stay in place pretty well.

    Then I took a 3/4" drill bit and "counter sunk" the top of the hole so the stock has a "place to go" when you are slitting and drifting. Otherwise I found it left marks on the material from the edges of the smaller hole.

    The rest is pretty self explainitory, but you center punch the stock on two opposing sides, and slit and drift through these. There are many blue prints on Iforgeiron on slitting and drifting.
     

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  20. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0741 Vise
    by Lone Ronin of Italy

     

     

     

    I used a base 4"x4" (10x10cm), a scaffolding joint ad tow pieces of 2" (5cm) diameter pipe. it can be easily clamped to the workbench. very simple and adjustable.

    I started thinking a simple way to build a reliable knife vise with little or no welding work as my skill in welding is horrible as you can see


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    it works great!

    this is the result. I still have to improve the wood jaws with a piece of rubber to lock the blade an add another nut where you see the holein the first pic. but you get the overall idea.

  21. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0742 V tool
    by Jeff Phillips




    I always had a Problem getting my square grip tongs to be nice and tight 90 degree bends. I tried hammering in the corner near the shelf, and over a hot cut that I shaped at 90 Degrees.

    Today I made a v groove smashing tool, You clamp it in the vice, heat your flat jaw good and warm, slide the top part up, put the jaw in, and hammer it down, takes one heat to form, and a second to finish it nice and square. The top part of the tool slides up and down.
     

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    Kind of a one off tool, but at least I can make nice square jaws, the work well for round stock too. The last two pics are a set of 1/2" square tongs I made.

  22. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0743 RR Spike Wall Hook & Ceiling Hook
    By: John Martin



    Note: All appropriate safety gear should be worn while forging. If using a gas forge, like I do, check your lines and the seals. Glasses and ear protection are a must. I am not responsible for you being careless of yourself and hurting yourself or others.

    Well, you can't decide what to do with those Railroad spikes that you have laying around. Well, here are two items that you could turn some of those spikes into, a wall hook & ceiling hook. Useful for in the shop, garage, and as gifts.
    (I made both of these together in 45 minutes, so it'll be two tutorials in one. I also didn't wirebrush as I forged, as I like to make these things as unique as possible.)

    Grab two railroad spikes and put them in the forge now.


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    Here are the two final products, and the two spikes almost up to temp. (Wall Hook on far left, then ceiling hook.)

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    Now draw out about a 5-7" square taper, the shorter, the smaller the hook, the longer, the larger the hook, I did about 6".

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    Put the spike on the diamond, and forge it into an octagonal taper.

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    Now begin to turn the octagonal taper into a round taper. To do this, rotate the spike back and forth quickly with quick hammer blows to turn it round.

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    Draw the last 2" of the round taper out to about a 1/8" tip.

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    Now, this is very important, with the railroad spike pointed down (the head of it) make a small rat's tail using the edge of your anvil.

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    Now, to form the hook, heat up the whole taper. Then as you take it out of the forge, quickly quench the tip of it in water so that you don't deform the rat's tail. Put it over the end of your horn, and forge it into a U. Of course, you decide how large, tall, and wide the hook is.

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    Now, pick one of them to be your wall hook. Take your cross pein, and pein the spike in the middle between the head and taper.

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    Take the other spike that will become the ceiling hook, and hot cut the head off. (You can grind it off, hot cut, bandsaw, whatever you want, but I hot cut.)

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    Back to the wall hook. Make sure everything is straight and even, and that the hook is how you want it. Set it aside now.

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    Comparison of finished wall hook to in progress wall hook.

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    Take your ceiling hook, that has had the head cut off of it, and put about 3/4" of the end onto the anvil. Use half-faced near hammer blows. Forge it out until you think it's about the size of quarter or so.


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    Now, put the end that you have flattened across the other side of the anvil, and forge the end straight down, so that it makes a 90 degree angle. (Or close to it.)

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    After you have forge the end, you can add a twist if you like, but since my shop right now is all over the place, I don't have my post vise setup, so I didn't. But, make sure it is all lined up like you want it.

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    I now drilled two holes in the wall hook and one in the ceiling hook. You can punch or drill. I drilled with my drill press for ease of use and time/energy. Anyhow, here are the finished pieces. Apply whatever finish you want to them - wirebrush, linseed, paint, beeswax, etc...
    You'll also need forged nails for these, unless you want to use screws or nails. I prefer forged nails. Glenn has an excellent BP of making nails in the BP section if you need to now how. It also has a video attached. Back to the hooks though, notice the twist on the ceiling hook. You can jazz these things up if you want with twists or punches & chisels for detail.

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  23. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0737Tool Holder
    by Garey Ford
     


    i got these RR tie plates when i bought some RR ties.

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    I was looking at them and realized the 3/4" square holes are the same size as my hardy tool shanks. my anvil has the heel broken off at the front of the hardy hole so i didn't have any way to hold the tools. so i welded the 4 plates into a open ended box and mounted it to a stump with some RR spikes.

    02.jpg

    My poor old broken anvil.

    03.jpg

    The plates welded together and mounted on a stump with RR spikes.

    04.jpg

    Tool holder with hot cut mounted in the hole ready to use.

    05.jpg

    06.jpg

    Hardy tools stuck in the holes handy for use , also can store tools inside the box.

  24. IForgeIron Blueprints
    Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

    BP0746 Bending Fork
    by Tubbe

     

     



    Started a little project a couple of weeks ago. I had a piece of round bar about 1.5" diameter x 4.5" long, laying around. I have looked at it many times, and finally one day, I threw it into the forge. I tapered down a 1 inch shank and popped it into my hardy hole and made the upsetting there. This is for a smaller anvil, and I noticed that the anvil actually heated up quite a bit, so be careful and cool the hardy hole bit of your anvil doing stuff like this. To fuller down the middle part I made myself a spring fuller from two pieces from a crowbar forged to shape and welded onto the "spring". Heat treated and all...
    01.jpg

    Now I have to draw the fork part out a bit further and split it in two. I am thinking 5/8", perhaps even larger would be ok.

    03.jpg

    I'll try to hot cut the split. It's tempting to do that in the upright position in the hardy hole, but making a straight cut like that sounds impossible, so I choose to do it horizontally from both sides.

    This tool is made to fit my large anvil with a 1,5" hardy hole. That's why I used a stump of square tubing as a shank...

    02.jpg

    Quite hard work doing "heavy" stuff like this by hand and alone..

    It actually wasn't mild steel... when I made it ready for center punching for the split line, i quenched it, and it hardened up quite a bit... my center punch went "pop". Had to regrind that one. Thought I did spark test it from the beginning, must have been blind. So, for the final stage i just normalized it. Hope that's ok.

    It's a nice ring to it as well... probably could tune an instrument with it

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