Steve Sells

It doesn't require an electrical license or degree to weld, but I happen to have a Masters and after about 40 years doing it will retire in another year. Some of the things you suggest like running 2-120 volt lines to get 240 volts and just changing out the fuse at home is not remotely intelligent, or safe. I am being blunt because subtle isn't getting through to you, and no one is trying to insult you, but you are not paying attention, You dont have a welder so we suggest you go to a local welding supply house. They can get you training on how to use the welders and suggest a unit that meets your needs, may even get you a used unit that can save you lots of money, like they did for me. Local store also have support for long term issues that mail order or a big box store cant do

This can be a dangerous hobby. Based on your comments so far, asking your age is a valid question, partly because you dont seem to understand what we have told you and to protect ourselves going further we need an answer about if you are just young of if there is another reason you dont understand

WARNING do NOT touch your electric supply, you are scaring me and asking for dangerous accidents

I use a Century 100, bought it used years ago, still works well

Glenn's reason for no commercial links was that the companies should pay for our referrals. They dont want to refer to us, we tried with a few of the more common smithing sites, and before you ask, YES the sites that are allowed here have paid, even though Glenn is now gone, we are following his lead in operations here. So sites that make money from visitors, charge to view or require a membership, are not allowed.

This is the major reason we ask people to not use street slang or texting short cuts when posting here. it does not translate well, if at all, as most slang is regional

after 10 you get "talked to", you are safe as I do not see any problem with that reference

If you are worried, Hit it once then reheat, problem solved, tho I manage to get 2 or 3 hits before it cools

since most of my work is in factories, we just wire it all at 140 degree

One problem beginners have with larger conduits is they forget to de-rate the wires used. We cant just put 20 pairs of wire in a pipe and run 15 amps on 14 ga, it gets reduced because of the amount of wire in there. so we would end up running 10 ga wire for 15 amp circuits, so in the long run its better to run lots of 3/4" with 3 or 4 runs each instead, just like you are.

no. a longer time wont make a item too soft unless you have the temperature too high.

I explained tempering a second time in the heat treat sticky, you wont ruin it by tempering again or for "too long"

Looks like a pro-electric install. Dont forget the conduit straps, I cant see if they are there or not

Knee mail sent

that is exactly how to do a tang, perfect

coal dust

not a good idea to have a sharp transition between tang and blade, its a stress riser for fractures

I removed your duplicate post where you posted this same knife in 2 places, and you were sent a note about it. there is a tag in upper right of screen showing a PM waiting for you. We have few rules here that you said you read and agreed to follow when you joined: no off site links, no language you wouldn't use in front of church, and treat others as you want to be treated sums them up, Sorry if that it to constraining for you

I plan to retire next year, but I aint going anywhere

why not shoot him an Email C/O Williamsburg

Frosty covered it. Just change out tanks.

looks very professional

one problem, its recommended to have one HP per inch of belt width, tho I am fine with the 1.5 Hp on my Bader B3 2Hp would have been better I am afraid 1/2 Hp is gonna be a major let down when you use it

what do you mean out of date? the knife chat wasnt that long ago, steel hasnt changed much since then, nor has electricity or belts

odd sizes dont have as many options as the industry standard 2x72, but there should still be a variety of grits and abrasive materials available