Steve Sells

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BP0812 Fold Forming
by Freeman

I was out in the shop this evening plinking away on bottle openers (this is what I do while I'm trying to decide what I'm doing) when I spotted a stack of 10 gauge sheet rectangles a friend had dropped off at my shop six months ago. At the time I didn't know what to do with them but they where an interesting shape so I tossed them on the pile and promptly forgot about them.

I had recently read through an article on fold forming in an old blacksmithing mag I had lying around so I decided instead of getting into anything purposeful I'd do a little "free play" this evening and popped one of the sheets into the fire.

After doing a few experimental folds and finding myself pleasantly surprised at just how organic the results where, I ended up with a partially folded plate that looked like it wanted to be a door knocker.

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BP0813 Sign Design
by Arean Ellis



Here is my best design so far...
Any other ideas or changes you could think of making? I'm having a hard time settling on any one idea. Nothing seems to fit the lettering as well as I would like. I'm tempted to go with a vine theme...but am worried the final product won't turn out as well as I would hope.

I'm using 5/8th round for the main 'trunk' and 3/8 round for the scroll. The lettering is 5/16 round.

The finish is bee's wax and boiled linseed oil.

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BP0814 PH Taper tool
by Timothy Miller

I made this tool because I forge a lot of tapers that later get ground and polished so the smoother they come off the hammer the less work for me. it consists of a hot rolled steel plate the same size as the die with a piece of 1" hot rolled round welded to the bottom as a pivot. The pivot contained in a frame that slips over the bottom die. It pivots to the angle of the taper and produces a smooth finish. I used hot rolled because I don't want it to damage my dies. I have to rebuild it every few years but it is a very useful tool. Shown is a taper drawn out from 1 1/2" square steel 24" long down to 3/4".








Ah yes, The pivital round back flatter- Nice!

Normally do 30 or more tapers in a run. I use the "drawing dies" that Tom Clark sold with the hammer to draw out the steel. They are about 2" wide with a gentle curve to the face. I measured the curve it works to be about a 3.5" radii. It seems to be about ideal. It is worth my time to change out the dies as the drawing dies seem to be about 30% or 40% faster and leave a better finish on the part. Then put the flat dies in for finishing.


Thomas Powers
First time I've seen the bottom version of that tool. Most folks I know have a handled top version with the flat face and a rounded back so the top die can always find a place in line to hit it. You can also use it without having to switch in a bottom tool.


Timothy Miller
Like I said It was not original to me but It has saved me a lot of time over the years. I think that people who never saw it before would benefit from being introduced to the idea. I also suspect it is a very old idea as well. The idea came to me from Fletcher at arrowmount metals originally he suggested a round back tool as well mated with a corresponding bottom die. He is sort of the Grant Sarver of the east when it comes to tooling. I also have seen Dicks Sargent's tool and another version at the Memphis metals museum. I claim no ownership over this idea and I give credit where credit is due.


Thomas Powers
I break out in hives when folks try to claim *first* on a lot of smithing stuff as there generally is a lot of re-invention of the wheel in this craft; especially by people not steeped in the historical aspects of it...(I've had an amusing time telling some "traditionalists" that the first powerhammer I've documented was in use before the year 1000...).

What I tell folks is to work on being *best* not first.

It sure helps the craft as a whole to have people showing off their version of various tooling with any improvements they have thought of even if someone else somewhere somewhen has done it before.

I enjoyed reading "Practical Blacksmithing" a series of articles from a smithing Journal (magazine) from the late 19th century which is full of "this is how I do it or what tool I made to do the task mention in a previous issue that I think is *better*!"

It is a good idea however to mention who you got the idea from; but not necessarily as the *inventor*---"I got this idea from a frazzlewhopper that I saw in Dismas of the stone cold forge's shop that he had made to do the same task.

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BP0816 Brick Forge
by Kraythe

Over the time I have been visiting this forge I have seen a lot of people come through and ask about all sorts of designs of forges. Most of the people posting such threads are actually new to using a gas forge and often new to smithing. I have advised many of these newer smiths to first build a brick pile forge, use that a while and then go to something more serious once you figure out how big you will need. So now I wanted to make a definitive post as a guide for these people.

The forge will have an internal size of 9" x 4.5" x 6.5", or 263 cubic inches. It is, however, easily reconfigured to be smaller, shorter, wider or whatever you need for your particular tasks in the shop. That is the beauty of a brick pile forge, it can be reconfigured at will and allows the smith to see what size they need in the end. This forge is not the end all-be-all of smithing forges. It is a starter forge and as you work with it, you will learn a ton about how forges work and will grow into more efficient systems. The brick pile forge is so versatile that occasionally I will toss one together just to do some specific task that doesn't work well in my main forge.

Forge Materials:

• About 10 to 15 Soft insulating bricks, rated 2300 degrees farenheit.
• 3 Hard firebricks.
• Metal Table

Burner Materials:

• 1" to ¾" Black Iron T fitting (1" across the top and 3/4" on the leg of the T)
• ¾" to to 1" Black Iron reducer
• ¾" x 6" Black Iron Pipe Nipple
• High Pressure Propane Regulator
• Propane Pressure Gage
• ¼" Propane Rated hose with Fuel Threaded ends (available at welding supply stores)
• ¼" Propane Rated Flashback Supressor (available at welding supply stores)
• ¼" Fuel to normal pipe thread converter (available at welding supply stores)
• ¼" Ball Valve
• ¼" Brass Pipe Nipple (4")
• ¼" Brass pipe Nippel (smallest)
• ¼" Brass Pipe Straight Connector
• ¼" Brass Pipe to 1/8" Copper Compression Fitting
• (2) ⅛" Brass Pipe Compression nuts
• 24" flexible copper pipe
• ⅛" Compression to normal pipe Nipple
• .025 MIG Tip
• Propane rated thread sealant.

Tools (Basic):

• Copper Compression Hose Flare Fitting
• Tap for your MIG tip thread (varies by the tip brand)
• Tap for ⅛" pipe thread
• Couple of Crescent Wrenches
• Drill
• 2" Hole Saw
• Hacksaw
• Reducer for ¾" to drill bit size for the tap.
• Plumber's torch with click starter

Tools (Best):

• Drill Press rather than drill
• Dremmel with Cut-off wheel

Propane Supply Assembly











First tap the 1/8" compression to normal pipe nipple with the tap for your MIG tip. The right tap to use depends on the tip brand that you are using. If you ask a welding supply store they can supply you (or at lest tell you) the right size. Then cut about ⅛" off of your MIG tip and put propane sealant on the threads and screw it into the tapped fitting securely. Next attach the copper flexible hose to the compression fitting by putting on the compression nut and then flaring the tubing and finally screwing the compression nut on the fitting you tapped. The goal of the flexible copper tip is to get a good nice gas tight seal without constraining yourself with rigid pipe. Next put the compression nut on the other side of the tubing and flare that. Take the ¼" pipe to compression fitting and attach the other end of the flexible copper tubing to this fitting. Then attach the converter fitting to a small pipe nipple then to the straight connector and then to the longer pipe nipple. The extra parts make this assembly easy to use on other burners and other projects in the future. Finally attach the 4" brass pipe nipple to the ball valve, then attach the ball valve to the fuel to pipe thread converter. use propane sealant on all threaded connections.

Fuel hoses are backward threaded. You learn "Righty tighty, lefty loosey" to understand normal threads. Fuel threads are the reverse of that and this is a safety feature that you don't want to violate. The converter changes the normal pipe thread into fuel threading. This should be screwed right into a propane rated flashback suppressor. This device will keep a flashback from reaching your bottle if something should go badly wrong. You can potentially skip this device but when it comes to exploding propane bottles, I prefer to play it safe. Attach the flashback suppressor to your propane fuel hose and then the other end of the fuel hose to the regulator. Screw the pressure gage on the regulator and you have the jet assembly done. Again remember to use propane sealant on all threads, if you didn't, go back and take it apart and do it right.

Burner





The burner is a standard "Frosty" T burner so named after the forum user Frosty who created it and has a propensity for wrestling large trees.

To tap the back of the T, get a reducer that will screw into the ¾" side part and reduce it to just barely the size of the drill bit you will use for the pipe thread tap. If it is smaller, that is fine, if larger that isn't optimal. This reducer will serve as a guide to the drill to position the jet exactly in the middle of the T leg. Drill out the burner and then tap it for the ⅛" pipe that the MIG tip is attached to. Next attach the black iron pipe nipple and the ¾" to 1" reducer to act as a flare.

If you don't know how to drill and tap, then you should probably research that and practice before embarking on this project.

Now screw the burner jet into the burner and then test the burner.

Testing the Burner















Check for leaks using dishwashing fluid mixed with water or, even better, child's bubble solution. If you see bubbles that is a leak. Twist it tighter, make sure you have a good amount of propane sealant and so on. Light the burner with a plumber's torch (this is the safest way to light your forge). Another great trick for checking leaks is a cheap medicine syringe used for children. Fill it with bubble fluid and squirt on your junctions. Note that while I am testing my son is sitting there with his hand on the bottle valve and watching what is going on. His job is simple, if something goes bad, he cuts the propane at the bottle.

Forge
When we say brick pile, we aren't kidding, its literally a pile of bricks on the table. Use a metal table and you can fabricate one if need be. Mine is fabricated to hold forges. Start with three bricks in the center of the table configured as shown



Add a hard firebrick in the middle. This will heat up in the forge and serve to regulate the forge temperature. Make sure the brick is at least the width of one brick from front, back and sides.



Next add vertical bricks to the side of the hard brick.



Now we test out the roof bricks. We want to make sure that we have the right width.



Now we add some hard bricks to the side to support the vertical bricks from falling. We also set up a couple of bricks to serve as the back door.



Now we have to drill out one brick for the flare. These bricks are very soft so be careful or you will shatter them. We use a hole saw to drill the brick. Put plywood under the brick to support it and make sure you can drill all the way through without hitting the table. When you drill, go very slow and steady. Don't press hard or the brick will shatter.













Now we place the flare brick on top of the pile, stick the flare through and clamp up a support for the burner. The bricks won't be strong enough to support it.


Now we seal up the roof using a brick on edge to serve to give a roof over our front door bricks.







Finally turn on the burner to about 5psi and open the ball valve while the plumber's torch is in the forge and enjoy the glow.





Enhancements:
The bricks can be coated with ITC-100 wherever they are exposed to heat. This will make the forge hold a lot more heat. You can also make a quick form the size of a brick and pour half an inch of castable over the brick (like Kastolyte 30) and then coat that with ITC-100. Make sure the first time you fire the castable you go slow. This will allow a much hotter face. You can put in blown burners, change the configuration and a dozen other enhancements.

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BP0815 Heart Hook
by Dave Custer

as requested, here is a step-by-step tutorial of my heart-themed bird feeder hook.

I should have mentioned this before, but these step-by-step instructions do not cover pieces I claim a copy right to. Anyone here is welcome to try to reproduce these piece. I encourage you to come up with your own variation and exercise your own imagination in your work, but if you are hard up for ideas, don't worry about copying what I'm doing! You are MOST welcome to try it.

I sell this piece as a bird feeder hook. The idea is, the extended hook gets a bird feeder, or hanging plant, or dinner bell, or WHATEVER, away from the post, beam, or board the hook is mounted on.
This tutorial will cover two variations of the bird feeder hook. One is a simple J-hook style and the general shape and forge work would be classified as a beginner level project. The second variation features a flared scroll type hook with a (supposedly) graceful curl down to the scroll. This might be classified as an intermediate level piece as it is much more difficult to get an even, "kink free" curve, than it is to make the simple "cut-n-dry" shape of the first variation.

Step #1: Turn off the TV, hit the shop, and cut you a 20-inch piece of 3/8" round stock.


Step #2: Mark a line with silver pencil or soapstone, 2-inches from the near edge of the anvil. Heat the end of the stock, place the end of the stock against the line, and step the metal to one side. You will use a half-on-half-off hammer blow to accomplish the step in your metal. Basically one side of the metal will "step" down and the other side will remain flat. In this entire process, keep the metal VERY hot the entire time. Just shy of welding heat is IDEAL. If you over-stress the metal from lack of heat, you WILL loose your heart. (The metal one that is!)

Illustration of a half-on-half-off blow. (cold)



During the process!



The result!





Step #3: Now center punch the stepped in side of the stock a couple of times. These will act as guide marks as you split the stock. Make sure they are in the center. I just eyeball it, but if you want, you can measure or use a center finder.



Step #4: Next heat the end of the stock and using your center punch marks, split the stock with a chisel. HEAT IS KEY! LOTS AND LOTS OF HEAT! The heat must be, not only on the end of the stock, but back in the shaft behind the step on the end. Chisel up to the end of the step. A cherry red heat is NOT ENOUGH! BRIGHT red is the lowest you can go and ideally you need to keep it in the yellow to bright yellow range! I HIGHLY recommend a cutting plate for this job. I use 16 gauge sheet metal to protect the anvil face. Some people use copper! You may be the best "chiseler" in the world, but you WILL miss eventually and your anvil face will remind you forever. Spend ten cents and buy a cutting plate!



Step #5: After you have chiseled completely through, use your hardy to seat the cut and spread the two prongs apart! Once again, LOTS AND LOTS OF HEAT!



(That picture shows you the IDEAL working heat and location of that heat for the entire "split heart" forging process!)

The result of this seating and spreading should look like this!


Step #6: Next, one prong should be straightened and one should be curled back as shown below! Make sure you don't let the stock twist when you curl the prong back. It will try to twist, but keep it straight and again.....HIGH HEAT! Also, you'll probably have one prong that is a little bigger than the other. Bend the larger of the two out of the way and leave the smaller one straight. This makes it just a bit easier to get the prongs the same length. (This curl is called a convenience bend.)



Step #7: Taper the straight prong using your preferred tapering method! Then make a mark on the anvil that designates the length of this prong. This mark is VERY IMPORTANT in making an aesthetically pleasing heart.





Step #8: Now bend the tapered prong out of the way and straighten the other prong. Once again, watch for twisting and DON'T let it happen. Lots of HEAT! Then taper out the prong. Taper the prong to the length of the mark you made. That way, it will be near the length of the other prong. When you are done tapering, straighten the first prong and hammer the two together.





Step #9: Heat the two tapered prongs up, clamp the stock in the vice and use some needle nose tongs or pliers to begin shaping the heart. Use as many heats as you like, but try not to flex the base of the heart too much.







Step #10: Now it's time to make the screw hole locations. I do two screw holes, and I space them far enough apart to allow my touchmark between the screw hole locations. I use a ball peen hammer to make my screw hole indentions, then I flatten a place between the two for my touchmark. I place my touchmark, straighten it all back out, and let it cool. AIR COOL!







Step #11: After the metal is cooled, drill two 3/16-inch holes in your screw hole indentions. The advantage of the ball peen indention is that it eliminates the need for center punching or counter sinking your screw holes.



This is where the variations come in. I'll do the simple version first and then the more complex one.

Step #12: Taper the end apposite the heart.



Step #13: Put a finial scroll on the tip. The scroll should face downward when the heart is facing upward. Then bend a hook on the tapered end. The hook should face upward when the heart faces upward.





Step #14: Bend this hook downward, approximately 90 degrees using the vise. (pictured cold)





Step #15: Now heat and bend the bar approximately 90 degrees, just below the last screw hole. This is done in the vise with the screw holes clamped in the vise. (again shewn cold)



Step #16: Wire brush a apply bee's wax while hot.


Now for the more difficult variation! Ignore steps 12-16 and pick up at step 11.

Step #12: Flare the end of the bar apposite the heart. For a wide flare use the cross peen hammer. For a medium flare us the edge of the hammer face. For a small flare, simply flatten the end of the bar. Scroll the flare so that the scroll faces upward when the heart faces upward.





Step #13: Bend the hook at approximately 90 degrees, just below the last screw hole. Clamp the screw holes in the vise to bend as shewn.



Step #14: Use a vise held bending fork to bend the bar, between the screw holes and the flared end, to a nice even curve. This takes practice so don't fret if your first isn't all that great. Work out any kinks and make sure the curve is even.







Step #15: Wire brush and apply bee's wax while hot.

The end results!










And that's all folks! I welcome questions and comments. If something didn't make sense just let me know and I'll try to explain it better and/or get more pictures!

I think the BP's are more for focusing on a single technique or tool instead of a craft fair hook!

Curley George
No, BPs are for teaching/learning new things.

Randy478
Here are the pictures of the heart hanger I made yesterday. Randy







Dave

Revision.....REVISION!
I was in the shop yesterday and a different method for step #5 dawned on me.

In step #5 I have you opening the split ends on the hardy. This pushes both of the prongs to the side, but we actually need one prong to stay straight. More movement in the prongs = more stress!
So this is the revised version of step #5.

Step #5 Clamp the material in the vise and use a narrow profile chisel to seat the split. Then us a tight radius, hand-held fuller to round the bottom of the split!

This method stresses the metal MUCH LESS than the hardy, and it gives the base of the heart a VERY NICE finished look that is more difficult to get with the hardy. It takes no more time than the hardy method and in fact saves time because it reduces the chance of breaking off a part of your heart.

It is such a pleasure and an honor to know that some of you guys are able to follow, successfully these instructions. I hope you all are enjoying putting your own "twist" (figuratively and litterly) on something that I make. I'd love to see pictures of the ones you are turning out and even variations of what was in the instructions.
 

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BP0817 How to make a Cant Hook
by A. Wood



I work in a lumber business where we handle all logs from pine up to 30 inches, so will give my experience in making hooks to give good satisfaction. I have followed this kind of blacksmithing for fifteen years. In the first place, making a keading tool out of stock 4 by 5/8 of an inch and 1 foot long. Punch a hole 1 by 1/2 inch in center of the piece and cut out the end you are to have your bill on, say about 3/8 of an inch deep at the hole running out to nothing at the distance of 3-1/2 or 4 inches from the hole. Cut ir out rounding is you wish a duck-bill, and tight down to a point if a diamond bill. Now your tool is ready to use.

Cut your steel for a good, heavy head 20 inches long from 1 by 1/2 inch stock and upset one end until your piece measures 15 inches, keeping it straight on the back and duing all your upsetting towards the bill. Then heat and drive down with a sledge into your tool, being careful to draw your steel towards the heavy side so as to form the bill. In drawing down your will get wider and when you have it down 1-1/4 inches from the face of your tool to top of bill, corner it up on the horn of the anvil, always drawing towards the point which is drawn out in this way and diamons shaped to a point.

Leave the back of the bill hollow in center when you put straight edge on, so it will come out of the timber easily. Now that the bill is made, dress and even up all around and punch hole for 7/16 inch bolt in other end. Then bend the back of the hook round, leaving it a little straight at the end in which you punched the hole. Now take your square and place your hood in the corner and bend back so it will measure 4-1/2 inches from the center of the bolt hole to the line of the head. Your hook will handle logs up to 30 inches. If your timber is larger than this use more stock and upset same amount for head according to the size of logs. I hope this may help out brothers in the mountains to make hooks.



I remember the time I used to sweat over them, and would have been pleased to have the paper come to my rescue in many others hobs as well as hooks. I am greatly pleased with our paper and derive much benefit from it.
A. Wood
 

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BP832 Hammer Technique
by Glenn Conner

Many have ask how to swing a blacksmithing hammer. This is the way I learned from Hofi.


Go to your anvil and put your hammer on the face of the anvil horn to heel. Walk up and grab hold with your thumb ON TOP of the handle. Now push - hard. You should feel resistance from your thumb to your hand, wrist, elbow, shoulder and neck. All the joints are effected in a BAD stressful way.

Walk up and grab hold with your thumb WRAPPED AROUND the handle. Now push - hard. Your wrist should bend absorbing some but not all of the stress.

Walk up and grab hold but use Hofi's technique. Best I can explain is to hold a sheet of paper vertically between the thumb and fingerprints. Hold the hammer handle the same way, between the thumb and fingerprints. Now push - hard. The hammer rotates between the thumb and fingerprints with no stress to your body.

The next step takes a little practice. Raise the hammer above your ear and throw it down toward the anvil, using the thumb and fingerprints to guide it to the hot metal. As the hammer hits it will rebound so catch it on the up stroke and raise it back to ear level. Repeat as needed.

Time to set up the anvil.
Adjust the anvil so the face of the anvil is level in both directions, side to side and horn to heel.

Go to your anvil and put your hammer on the face of the anvil, across the short side of the face, NOT horn to heel. Prop it up as needed so it stands in place. Now put the end of the hammer about mid-line of your body using your belly button as a guide. Reach for the hammer handle and notice that you put your body, shoulder, arm and wrist in a twist. Take a step or so left or right. Hold your closed fist about 3-4 inches from you leg so the hand touches the hammer handle when you walk up to the anvil. This puts your shoulder arm and wrist in the same plane as the hammer, and in a position so you do not hit yourself in the leg with the hammer.

Put a 1/2 or 3/4 inch piece of soft wood on the anvil face and hit it with the hammer. If the crescent is at 12 o'clock the anvil is too low. If the crescent is at 6 o'clock the anvil is too high. 3 and 9 o'clock means you are holding the hammer to the side or the anvil is tilted to one side and not level, or not parallel with the face of the anvil. Raise or lower the anvil as needed to get nice circles upon impact. Or raise or lower the ground you stand on. Either way watch the crescents.

You do not have to take a full swing if you need a light blow. Many people are afraid to use a full swing and never get a full force hammer blow. Raise the hammer above your ear and swing or throw it down toward the anvil, with full maximum force, You can use a wooden stump, or a piece of wood on the anvil face, but swing the hammer as if you were going to drive it 2 inches below the anvil face. This means you DO NOT pull your hammer blows, or slow down just before impact. You drive the hammer into and though the hot metal. CAUTION: This also means that the anvil will cause the hammer to rebound and launch from the face of the anvil. DO NOT stand over the hammer as it can/will whack you in the head. Nada-second is the time between when you hit the anvil face with a hammer and the time it takes the same hammer to rebound and hit you in the head.

As with any technique, practice, practice and more practice, making sure you use perfect technique each time. You will not get it perfect or full force with the first blow, but you will improve with each practice.


Wooden hammer handles
If you have a wooden hammer handle, take some 100 grit sandpaper and remove the factory glaze or lacquer or coating. Mix some boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits, half and half, and using a small piece of terry cloth or t-shirt, apply the mixture to the wood. For the first application, reapply as needed to keep the wood wet until you leave the ship.Dispose of the rag in such a way that it can not generate heat and catch fire. I like to wrap it around a rock and place it in a container of water.

Apply the mixture hourly for a day, twice daily for a week, and as needed until it no longer absorbs the mixture. IF you need to use the hammer during the application process, just wipe off any excess and use the hammer. Reapply the mix when your finished.

I use this on all my wooden handles, hammers, axes, shovels, etc. I reapply in early spring and before the tools are put up in the fall.

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BP0819 TP Holder
by Sam Salvati

Forged this up for my mom and Dad, from some 1/2 round. Did a wire wheel finish, with oil on that. Thought you all might like it.

http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/800/819/01.jpg

http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/800/819/02.jpg

http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/800/819/03.jpg

http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/800/819/04.jpg

Images Copyright Sam Salvati,

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BP0820 RR Track Plate Box
by Garey Ford

http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/800/820/01.jpg
i have a anvil with the heel broken off. I needed a way to hold hardy tools so i built a box from RR track plate

http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/800/820/02.jpg

4 track plates i got off of several old RR ties ( leagely)

http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/800/820/04.jpg

The box welded up , mounted on a stump with spikes

http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/800/820/05.jpg
2 different swedges mounted in the box

http://iforgeiron.com/content/blueprints/800/820/06.jpg

Leave the ends open and store the tools inside.
 

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Copyright 2002 - 2012 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved.

BP0830 Latch and pull
By Thomas Dean

Here is the latch that I was making when it grabed my finger and resulted in the 7 stitches. It goes on the doors of a 48"dia x 48"lg cooker with an internal rotisserie for roasting corn and the like. (expensive little latch!)



Also made the door pulls, (no body parts were harmed during the making of the door pulls)



To attach I TIG welded 2ea 1/4" bolts to the backs of each, Cut the heads off so they will fit tight. The cooker is still in production, being built by my suprv. at work. When he finishes it I will post a pic or 2. Unfortunatly there was more blood the sweat on this project!
it's a barrel bolt.
Actually it is soot from the weld. Happens if there is any scale left from the forge and evidently there was some even tho I did buff it....clamped securely in the vise and using a slower buffer! I was able to get it all off with a small hand brush. From the blood still on the floor by the grinder that thing should have been RED! Once cleaned good I heated with a torch til blue and then several coats of clear varnish.

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BP0830 How to build a horse
by Scrapartoz


Hi folks Ive started on a memorial sculpture of a horse and rider for the parents of young girl tragically killed in a horse riding accident. The work will be inspected in October and if accepted I will commence work on the rider. The horse is Jaffa and the beautiful, talented and inspirational 16 year old girl was Taylor Farley.

Here is the record of the construction of "Taylor and Jaffa"




















Because I do this part time it will take about 7 months to complete.so progress will seem a little slow. Thanks for the encouraging words. I will try to show the entire process so that a beginer can have a go at a big project like this.( without all the sleepless nights solving the engineering dramas)

added 700 last night, and 800 and 900 this morniong, plus half of the 200 and none of the 500 series have photos

If everyone can do us all a favor,  I noticed while doing the 900 series that there were many duplicates there from other series. So if while  browsing these you notice a copy,  let me know the BP numbers of say 923 and 400 are the same so I can removed the copys.

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BP0701 Adjusting Multiple Legs
by Calala





Fine adjustments can sometimes take longer than making an item, for small table top items I place a piece of glad wrap on a FLAT surface then apply a small button of clear silicone sealant to the bottom of each leg, place on glad wrap and press down lightly so as to just flatten the silicone slightly, allow to dry then remove glad wrap and you have a none slip/none scratch/level item.

IForgeIron Blueprints
Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

BP0702 Blacksmithing Tools
by Monster Metal

I have been doing some bending on my platen table and am in the mood to build some tooling and fixtures for it... Was hoping to get you all to share your best stuff!

This is what I have been doing.. I have a grab rail that is 1 3/8 solid, bent it all cold on the platen table The 10 ton rig just has square pegs that drop in, you can just pick it up and drop it anyplace on the table, the 30 ton rig needs to be bolted down... I have various tooling to push, V's, flats, rubber snubs and shapes....







Finished rail parts and template



Would have been a big job to do all this bar hot... but only a couple hours work cold....



My version of the Grant Sarver half round bendy thing..

Nice bendy thingy, what size round did you use for your jig under the metal muncher?

It's 8" round x 8" long which gives a pretty good work area. I have a 10" long chunk of 16" cold rolled round. I might make a narrow one out of that chunk to use under the 200ton press. Would give an effective lower die opening of 32" which should allow a 90 deg bend in like 3.5" sq cold

IForgeIron Blueprints
Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved


BP0703 Anvil Bending Tool for bending a hanger bracket
By - Jeremy Knippel

I could use the dies for my Hossfeld bender for radiused bends if I had a way to attach them to the anvil that has a 1" hardy hole - so this is what I came up with - with some misc. things laying around in the shop. This can be done using almost any die for a similar bender, and may give you ideas how to do things on your anvil. The reason for making the die for use on the anvil is so that the arms of the bender are not in the way and this allows for more freedom of use. This method can be used for any size die or such as need - this was just for the one I need at the time for multiple bends

IForgeIron Blueprints
Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

BP0706 Adjustable Bending Forks
by Dan E

 

IForgeIron Blueprints
Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

BP0707 Cable Twist Forge
by Garey Ford



This little forge is built from a Marine diesel engine cylinder sleeve.





The little forge on the frame with a pipe vice mounted on one end





1&1/4" cable in the forge being twisted with a pipe wrench. other end is clamped in the pipe vice





Another view of the cable being twisted up





Twisting the cable . second pass through the forge to make sure it is all welded up good





A short piece of cable with heavy wall square tubing welded on each end . a 18" crescent wrench is used to twist with on the square tubing. the pipe wrench will slip on round hot cable and hit you on the nose.





The welded cable cut into lengths for forging flat





A little 4" warncliff blade made from some of the twisted cable





a friction folder made from a piece of the twisted cable





2 blades made from twisted cable .
 

IForgeIron Blueprints
Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

BP0708 Horse head bottle opener
by Clinton I made a couple of bottle openers yesterday and took some pictures of how I do it. I learned this from Brian Brazeal, and there are some key points to follow in order to get an opener like this.



Mark for slitting



Slit a hole Attached





Drift to 3/8 inch





Drift to 3/4 inch





Mark for cutting







Work over the horn, chamfer edges







Drift too cold and split it open





Start over


The final drift is 1 inch- no more or you will not end up with a nice round opener, you can not forge or hammer anymore even at a black heat after you drift to 1 inch, straighten it out and leave it alone. If you do end up with one that is too big thats fine you just take another heat and flatten the end, some people make them like that, I prefer the perfect round myself.

IForgeIron Blueprints
Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

BP0709 Calipers
by teenylittlemetalguy



 

Since this was really just to see if I could do it I used mild steel for all but the spring. Purchased a 4" x 1/4-20 machine screw for the adjuster. The posts were 1/2" rod. Turned a 3/8" long section down to 1/4" on the lathe to mount though the leg. A washer and then riveted the head down on the back. over did that a bit so I had to take a while loosening them up. but they work great now. Overall length is 12" as I wanted more range than a tiny set would give me.

Typically springs have been a problem for me, but I learned a lot on this build about how to make a spring and am comfortable with the strength and tension in this one.

I will build a nicer nut and case harden the tips before I put them away.

IForgeIron Blueprints
Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

BP0710 Copper belt buckle
by Kohyar Naderi

Put a bushing and washer on top and a washer on the bottom.

Using a silver solder, attack a belt loop and hook made of 8 to 10 gauge copper wire to the back of the buckle. Finishing methods: Method #1: pickle copper in sodium bisulfate/water, rinsed, then buffed with scotch brite. Be sure to wear gloves at every step following cleaning. Dip in liver of sulfur to darken the low areas then buff again. (hand pad from medium to extra fine) to polish the high areas. Seal with a clear matte spray like Krylon or Permalac. Do all soldering prior to finishing using 5% silver solder. Method #2: Polish on a cotton buffing wheel using Tripoli compound. 1140 to 1750 RPM is fast enough. Clean with Joy soap and a soft tooth brush. Apply a little heat to dry then a clear coat.

 

IForgeIron Blueprints
Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved

BP0711 Forged Corkscrew
by Jeremy Knippel This is the description for making this folding corkscrew.

This one is 3.5" x 2.5" closed and 6" open.

This is the process..... I started with a 5" piece of 3/8" round stock - upset each end for enough mat'l to forge a 1/2" ball on each end. The balls got flattened slightly along with a 3/16" rod on one side for the depression(pivot lock). I then forged the mat'l between the balls down to 1/4" round. I then shaped the handle and aligned the ends. Another piece of 3/8" was up set for a 1/2" ball for the center piece that has the "worm" on it. Once the ball was forged I tapered the other end for the shaping of the worm. I will drill a hole through all 3 ends for an axel rod, this keeps the pieces in place during pivoting while the handle acts as a spring to hold the position during open or closed. I didn't drill the hole for these first pictures to show that this was completely forged only up to this point.

A spring swage was made like the second picture for swaging the ball for the worm. This made the ball into the shape shown with a raised groove( the lock locator) after swaging for the center part of the pivot.













Here's the final assembled corkscrew. The middle picture is of the pivot halfway open so you can see how the handle springs apart. The 3/16" diameter axle is press fit into the center part with a tad of a larger clearance holes in the handle ends. This "snaps" into the open or closed position very possitively, although very easily opened.