buddha

Aldo has his 1084 steel back, ordered my first stick... Can't wait till it gets here, I can stop playing with unknown coil spring steel. It works for learning...

they are out of stock of the 1084, they told me they will be getting some more soon, i forget when..thinking of just getting the 1075 instead...

I've searched, wont say i have reached all possibilities...called a over a dozen welding/fab places, kind of gave up after finally finding a 1 inch bar of a36, got i had them weld two together. cost me about 40$ for a 3x4 block 2 inch tall.... but as you can tell i want something bigger, past adding another layer to what i already have. ill give a few of the fork lift places, get some calls/emails out, see what they can do. try not to go to the chain sites, never had good times with them... as far as salvage/junk yards, i believe we have two, one is hour away, the other near 2 hours, both are only auto salvage, so unless i have mystery blade stock and such...they don't do farm/industrial salvage.. Thanks Thomas, ill keep looking

well, been thinking about VaughnT and Thomas said, not needing a full sized anvil for what i need... got me thinking, called the place Thomas found, they weren't too nice, "we might do something like that for our neighbors" "that's something they wont want to make" so screw them.... took a look at the 4x4 4140 steel block from OldWorldAnvils (ive heard they are willing to cut it bigger than 4" long) http://www.oldworldanvils.com/anvils/4x4.html you got a new question, if all a bladesmith is a small chunk of steel, would not a farrier anvil do, i hear a lot of talk about Blacksmiths not working on them due to where the weight is at, a farrier anvil should be ok for a bladesmith.... Thomas you got me thinking.... :|

Ya, just read Thomas' note below the Peter Wright/English anvil math...It's a 106 lb'er, same guy that has the 200 lb'er Trenton ... Too much... http://waco.craigslist.org/atq/3002460857.html It states it's "soild wrought", that doesn't mean that it doesn't have a steel plate on top? Thanks

This is one of the ones I was looking at, be an hour or so away, but I believe that's worth it. Did some more diving, the 0 3 22, is. 106 lb'er Is this Peter Wright math correct? (found it on another thread, changed it to match this anvil)... 0 * 112 = 0 3 * 28 = 84 22 * 1 = 22

I've seen the Japanese style anvils, but finding a solid chunk of steel that sized is a problem here in Austin, Tx. No real industrial areas around here and for any Oil related finds, that all would be more North Texas. As for getting a real anvil, i would like a "solid" piece of steel, that's heavier that the 2" inch block i have, would be nice to have a hardie hole and pritchel to aid in my one manned adventures... figure it would help me chisel/cut, fuller and such things i can not do without an extra pair of hands...but never the less...

Main thing I do or will be doing is blades, maybe some small decorative items, but for the most part blades.. Will need an anvil that will handle small sword/large knifes. I know some folks don't like to hear that, but my Viking heritage wants it, lol :) Thx

well i liquidated my Marco Lens, got me $400, and now the question is should i try for an old Anvil or get a new one? the ones i have seen are all over an hour's worth of a drive, and all over 400. as you seen the Fisher, he will not let it go for anything lower than 400 see a 94-97# Peter Wright (0 3 22), think this is too small for 400 and then a 200# Trenton Anvil for 600ish, this one would be nice..... all of these i will have to travel over 100 miles.... or just order a farrier anvil form Centaur Forge, almost looking at the NC Calvary 112 lbs... or just save it for the 200 lb'er? its burning a hole in my pocket...... thanks all

ya, ill be saving, he would go any lower then 400, i just don't think i can spend that much for a cast iron/steel plate anvil. i rather just save another 200 or so and get a new one.... thanks all

ya, i guess 300 would be a fair price, sucks that just about half what i would need for the TFS anvil i want... http://www.texasfarriersupply.com/proddetail.php?prod=anvdhblacksmith100

ya, but being the south, only a few hundred miles from mexico.... worst thing its an hour plus away.....but not too many options here, dont want a farrier anvil... ill see if he can do 200 for it, if not just wait...i see TFS has a b-smith anvil for 550ish...thats only a little more than what i already have, would have to drive 180 miles or pay the shipping, might be the same in gas..... just saw a TFS certifier for 400, but its a Farrier Anvil....:( http://austin.craigslist.org/tls/3063328050.html

found a fisher anvil, guy is asking 450, but going to try for 350-400... what do you think? its a 100# pictures are not the best, but the face doesn't look that bad..

glad i saw this, was looking at a Vulcan near San Antonio, they were asking for 300...but might want to wait...

I haven't been able to find any rail, so I went to a fab/welding shop and got two blocks for a36, they were 3"x4" and welded the on top of each other. No ting, no bounce back but works for now, thinking of getting a 70# $200+ farrier anvil... Then win the lotto and get a full sized blacksmith anvil...

Thank you all, I think I'll do both, slow my blower down and get some coal. I have found some for cheap about a 180mile away, might take some time off and go pick a bag or 3...since shipping will be 30$ a bag, I can just put that in gas and get a few..

Ya I live in Austin, Texas. Not much coal down here, but was looking to maybe order some. I think I saw something like 55$ shipped :| And yes I was leaving the fire on while nothing heating up. Will have to look into getting a petal like noted, as well as a dimmer switch. See if that helps. One more question guys/gals, what size opening (hole size/amount) should I use, currently I have it opened 100% with a screen to keep things form falling... And not sure if it's me and my fire or just the limitation of the same forge, I can't seem to heat anything over 4" long.. Looks like I might need a better forge if I want to do much... Anyone with a drum/rotter forge do any 12" size knifes/dagger/tongs? Thanks again for all the ideas and understanding...

new here, first post, been reading some of the forum and such...really like what i see here, love the forum and thanks for all the great info already posted here... Issue is i am seeing that i burn through charcoal so fast. used both hard wood lump charcoal and home made charcoal (fallen tree limbs and 2 x 4s) and both go so fast. I built me a Break Drum Forge, well its a rotter (still looking for a drum)...i already clayed up the holes and shaped it to a more of a V. i am using a 2" black iron/steel pipe as the blower channel/pipe/ash drop and have 3/4 of the opening covered with tape to reduce the flow, using a 9.99$ hair dyer on low, from target. every time i turn around i need to throw another handful of charcoal into the forge.... i hear that coal will last longer, it this so or i am i missing something with my set up...should it burn this fast, the blower too fast, not sure where i am going wrong... thanks all