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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by kuzuzu

  1. Heatwave machining you have to do a calibration before every measurement. You will find that the pad with the readings rotates, i do not know your machine but you will find a way. The procedure is simple. You take a calibrated test piece of steel that you know that has a specific hrc number. You make a measurement with your machine and as it is engaged you rotate the plate with the numbers to correct the reading. Now you are ready to go. You do that every time you want to measure. All this for the possibility that your tool works like mine. But that may not be the case.
  2. I got some boiled linseed oil form ebay so i am ready to give it a go. I am also a beekeeper and i have lots of bees wax...i could make a wax-raw linseed paste (1:7) and use that but i think i will stick with the boiled linseed oil. Another issue : I used Moly-disulfide content grease to grease the screw an the sliding surfaces of my flypress. I read it on an old thread here in the forum. It feels sticky and the overall feeling of the press is slower than before when i was using oil, it even makes sticky sounds.
  3. Hello! You mean that after calibrating with the test disks it still has the same fault?
  4. mini anvil, 3,5kg weight. the maker is Brockhaus, it has a small decall that writes: " Brockhaus Qualitat aus stahl geschmiedet". Translates to " Brockhaus quality from forged steel" with some tooling included (crappy cellphone photos i just noticed)
  5. I don't think i will ever use any of my heavy tools to the extent that will make them worth the money. Maybe many years later. But to my defence i must say it will be a gift. I have to choose for a blacksmith/bladesmith tool up to 500euro. I was thinking a Tormek but a swage block would be nice. Similar Items from ebay (UK) unfortunately are collection only. You will have to email them. I did mail them to ask the same question for Greece and they answered the same day.
  6. Hello! It is quite difficult to find a used swage plate in Greece. The cheapest solution for me seems to be the BECMA swage plate that costs 314 euros -->360 usd. The weight is 35 kg. Is it worth the money? My next option would be to order from angele.de but the prices are out of my pocket's capacity. Thank you for your time!
  7. I can' t find in any of my near by shops boiled linseed oil. What if i use raw? Will it do the job?
  8. I think i am going to stick with the a reinforced concrete base plan, it will cost more for me to find the material and craft the timber one, and i am afraid it will be more prone to flexing. The height will be enough for me (i am1.9 meters talll) and if anyone comes to work with the press a wooden pallete on the floor will have to do. For the looks of the flypress i will use a rust converter and after that a few thin hands of linseed oil, or maybe just the linseed oil (me likes red rust color). Currently i cannot diside: 1)if i need to make two new allen screws to replace the old slotted ones (i am leaning towards "not needed" ) and 2)if i need to completely dismantle the ram to lubricate with grease. Is just external greasing gonna be sufficient? this is the screw and it holds the horizontal bar on witch it rests (piston valve recycled punch)
  9. I found this 125lbs anvil .The only markings are a "J" and the weight. Price is about 250 usd. Any ideas?
  10. Ok! Thank you for the reply. I suspect that mounting the press will be more expensive than the press itself...
  11. I have a question. What should be the working height of the press? I am thinking to make a concrete base for my press so that the spinning wheel is above my head and the table of the press at a height that i will be able to work standing. Any ideas?
  12. HI! I happen to own an original PFP of that size from the 30's. The shape of the anvil is correct. The stamp looks legit. Maybe a paint stripper will tell you more. Looks like NOS.
  13. this beauty followed me home last sunday. I am talking about the post vice...one of the many wonderfull tools collecting rust in that antiques shop. Full working order!
  14. Hello! I have a question on this (4 years old) topic about the materials we need to make rennaisance wax. What you call "Microcrystalline" is Microcrystalline cellulose ? And polythene "A" wax? Do you have some links for the actual materials so that i can find them here in Greece? The terminology in different languages is a pain... ps: the same question is also made by others as i found out reading the forum but i did not manage to find answers, sorry if i ask something that is already answered
  15. update: i am trying to upload a video of the press spinning. Does the wheel look like it spins freely enough? Lack of experience makes me wonder...While going down it spins much faster and effortless than going up. Gravity i suppose. wire brush on an angle grinder seems to do nice. Takes off rust and old paint but lives some of the old patina. just warming up..
  16. couldn't resist... the wheel now spins well. It i seems that with some twisting it gradually gets better. here a photo with the ram up! very happy! the screw seems to be it very nice condition shiny an all. The question remains: oil it and live it as it is or dissasemble and restore? we will see, i am flirting with the idea of living it as it is. rat-flypress style, maby a clear coat
  17. the weld is indeed on the upper part of the ram guide, left side. It seems to be well done and no ruptures are visible. I will continue soaking in petrol and we will see if it turns out (pun intended) to be any good. I am at the region of Ilia, the most famous part of the area near me that you may know is ancient Olympia. Nice to hear you visited Mani!!!
  18. scraping the paint off with a knife revealed what seems to be a weld. pfff...shall i continue restoring? or will it be a loss of time? by the way, this is how the big surfaces look without the paint, not sure if the photo captures reality...it is a bit rough like concrete. If i want it to be super fancy i suppose i will have to use some kind of filler.
  19. Ok that was helpful! I found the maker: Carl Kneusel Zeulenroda. and the logo on a manual frontpage! I was thinking to take the remaining of the paint off with some chemical paint remover. I am unfamiliar with the term "japanning" but Google told me that it means a high polished paint finish. (maybe like car paint?) The cheapest needle scaler costs here about 90 euros. I bought the press for 200 euros, i was looking for a cheaper method. But we will see.. Thank you all for the help!
  20. Hello to all! I bought a couple of days ago this fly press. It weights 700 kg and has a 3 lead screw. The fly wheel diameter is 120 cm (47 inches). I did find some German inscriptions on it, a serial number and a logo that seems to be three letters "CKZ". If anyone has any info about the origins of that tool and/or the pressing power of it, it would be nice to know. The wheel is stuck but according to the junkyard salesman it used to spin freely a couple of years ago, I am not sure if it will turn to be a good buy or a failure. For now i plan to soak everything into petrol for a week or two and after that try to spin the wheel. If it turns there is a question: should i leave it or proceed to a full restoration? I am not sure but i think it will be better to dismantle everything , electrolytic remove all rust, polish all parts, paint the body and reassemble the little monster. Thanks in advance! Any feedback is welcome! Victor ]
  21. hi! is there any example of that ?
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