Matt Smith

hello everyone, I recently scored a old rail road anvil at a flea market for a good price its about 12 inches long and one end has already been ground down into the shape of a horn.... I noticed after I got it home that there is a 3 to four inch long hair line crack that runs almost from the tip if the horn to where it is attached to the base of the anvil...It isn't to bad but I was wondering if there is any thing I can do to repair it or at least keep it from spreading more... I have read where some people weld cracks in their anvils and that sounds like a great idea but I neither can weld or have access to a welder.. also is there any ideas about ways to spruce this up a bit .. It does not have a hardie hole and I would like to figure out how to put one in . Thanks for any help you can offer

im currently making one of these myself....does yours work well?

Thanks for the tip

ok thanks is there a specific ratio off copper to aluminum

Thats awesome , I hope to one day be able to forge axes as good as that

thank you for the word of caution... and trust me I have read all that is listed on zinc and I have done research on casting zinc... Maybe I did not state it clearly in my original post and that is my fault, but when i stated that I had heard I meant I have read... Im not one to take risks especially when it comes to my health. With that said, I know that breathing the fumes from zinc can be harmful, but I have read where people have successfully and with no side effects have casted zinc at home. I have also read that the zinc fumes are basically harmless when at the melting temp, but when the metal is boiling then the zinc is evaporating at a high enough rate that the fumes are more hazardous. My plan was to smelt the zinc wheel weights with my forge and crucible, while wearing personal protective equipment, i.e my heat resistant leather apron, gloves, protective eye glasses, as well as using my respiration mask witch is rated for high fume rates which is found in and around the auto body and paint industry. My intention in posting my original question is that in my research i have not noticed anyone mentioning using Zinc Wheel weights to make knife fittings, I have read that some people have experimented with using it for casting bullets, but not for knife making. So is there anyone out there who has experimented with zinc casting, for this reason. I know that knife pommels and cross guards are sold that contain zinc but I do not know how well the material will hold up to this purpose, any help is appreciated.

anyone?

Ok im getting closer to finishing my first dagger and Im getting down to casting the pommel and cross gaurd. I Have been thinking about using Zinc alloy wheel weights for the casting since I can easily come across them and I have heard that zinc is easy to cast. I know the fumes from zinc isn't good for you but I herd that is only at the boiling temp.....Any ideas or advice.

Thanks for the advive i do have a vise so That will probbly work.

Does any body have any suggestions for making a spring fuller that doesnt use a hardie hole?... I have a rail road anvil and i dont have a hardie hole to use.

Thanks for the advice I live In Evansville IN by the way

Hello, I am intrested in possibly casting some parts for some knifes I will be making in the future and I have some questions regarding how to go about it. I have read alot about the lost wax process and I know in therory how to do it but I have a few questions concerning materials. First of all I do not have access to a kennel oven so I was wondering if there is a type of wax I can use to make my peices in which can easily be melted out of the mold using a regular home oven or even gently useing a torch to melt the wax out of the mold once set. I was considdering moldind some bars of common candle wax mixed with bees wax to use to carve my pieces out of...This way it should still be flexible enough for me to carve and still can be easily melted out of the mold. Would this work or is there a wax suttible for my needs out there. Also I was wondering about the mold material it self... I want something that will hold up to some heat but it doesnt have to be extremely high heat since I plan on useing pewter.. I have read that a mixture of silica flour and regualar plaster will make a strong heat resistiant mold... Any advice or input i would appreicate it THANKS

Thanks I have also thought about casting them but I do not know much about what meteal would best be used

I will probbly forge the blades, but would perffer to hand work the pomel and guards because I would like to make the ornate...I do not want to use brass because I do not really wwant a brass look

Hello this is my first post here, nice to meet you all. I am intrested in making some medevil style daggars and I was wondering what to use or the pomel and guards.. I know some people use steel round bar for pomels and steel square bar for gaurds but I am intrested in finding something in which I can shape a little more easily (similar to brass) but not bass. Any advise or ino on what you have used?