Robert Yates

I have No Clue what happened with all the Font issues in my Post ? Gerrrrrr Sorry Guys .

1500 Celsius = 2732 Degree Fahrenheit Thermal Expansion 30 °C—1500 °C ...... **** (Noted as above in Fahrenheit) The Math in equations are as follows .... 8.3 × 10-6 /°C (is equal to) 4.6 × 10-6/ºF This is to say the following : Maximum Use Temperature ..... 1,250 °C (= to 2,282 °F) **** (As per their Manufacturing Process Recomendations -- MPR) Note the Temperature Differance that the "Manufacture States is the Highest Recomended / Functional Opperating range" Also as per thair Site " Combined with the appropriate attachment method, Durafrax® 2000 can overcome temperature limitations, impact, and abrasion problems in many different industrial environments." I highly recomend you call "Saint-Gobain" and Speak to them about the Temperature Range you are wanting to use this Product in a Forge . Here is their Contact Information : http://www.wrt.saint-gobain.com/default.aspx?id=182548

Well Done Brother .

Prayers Sent your Way Brother Dan .

I have heard this a many year age thank you Frank for posting it again it is good to see and read it again .

I Love it I have the 1st season recorded and watched it pryor to the New season coming on to refresh my memory dagum good show they did their research on this show that is what makes it worth the hour sitting still and seeing it .

Here ... here I agree I must Know of this Hammer also .

I wood have shoot them . < Grins>

DWF , are you still around ? how is your welding adventure coming along ?

Welcome to IFI and Home I see you are a soldier you still active or retired out ? as stated pack a lunch read and learn for a while there is a ton of information for you to review . I look forward to seeing some of your work .

Thank you Frosty that was enjoyable to see.

Pitch, Tar, Bee's wax, Oils of different types, turpentine has been around for a long time as has most all the other things listed just in the pure forms and there were Alchemist back in the "ancient times" as you say. and the specialest of Woodworking, Blacksmithing, Knifemakers, and other Craftsmen knew their trade Very Very well or they were put to death for any work that was a failure or did not meet the Royal Inspection of an Item. so in essance the Craftsmenship of Products had standards that develpoed and stood the test of Time and ones own Life literaly . I hope this Helps you understand and I did not miss what you were asking .

Dagum Brother, That is the start of one super fine forge . You also did some Very sweet welding on the forge as well . I look forward to seeing this project finished .

AMEN ! AND , Thank You ! ! Frosty, I love the Very last Two Words as it lets one finish the sentence as one wants too. <Grins> Blessings Brother and Best Regards

Hmmm, Cabin fever will make you do strange things every time .

My thoughts on this is less science and more of the need . that being said lets take a look at simple ways of the craft. a jeweler uses very small hammers and very small anvils to work gold, silver, and various metals to his craft . while a blacksmith will use the larger anvils 100 + and a vast array of hammers depending on his needs (he will even invent different hammers to do a specific jobs) there are many types of metal workers that range from very simple to very complex works and I really think it comes down to the "Need of the craft work at hand" I Understand that anyone that digs into the history loves to analyze and tries to get the scientific meaning of of things in the world . I would pose this the Anvil size to Hammer size is not of a ratio (scientific principles) yet would be the pure function and Need to complete the project at hand by a craftsman in their field .

I will use Rich and Steve's comment to answer you inquiry. "It is covered extensively in the Knife Making Thread" Be well and I hope you have fun making knives as wonderful things.

Everyone in my house Knows NOT to touch Dad's ,Daddies, Husband's Knives . as you "Will draw back a nub!" :wacko: + :lol: = :o and then a trip to the Hospital for stitches and now you have had a very bad day . (when the Hospital Bill comes in)

Go ahead a mig the slot and try to file it I will Assume you have welded for some time and have "ground down" Yes File! many a weld the reason you asked is to find out what other knife makers do to make the guard to fit properly and you have been given the correct answer Yet you want to do it your way instead of trying it the correct way to cut corners . If you want to make very good knives and make them like the Elders, Master Knife makers then try it as instructed to do by the very same folks that are trying to help you with the information you seek ! I personally would Look at the Knife making thread as it covers the Very information you want to know . Best Regards and Enjoy reading the IFI knife making thread .

Amen Jim ,Glenn and a few others . folks just want the answer "NOW" and lack the drive to research the site for their answers and the thing is the subject has been covered in depth and "how to do it" so many times folks do get perturbed about the same old questions being asked . I personally would rather see some one ask where can I find ( whatever information ) in a form of question seeking the information then a page of this is what I have done and it is not working . and for the record "NO Rebar is NOT any good for Knives EVER) yet folks still ask the same old question about do to the lack of research . it is Pure 100% being LAZINESS to search the site . I do not mind helping anyone that is willing to help themselves .

I would Search IFI for "Anvil Repair" as there is a ton of Info that would More then answer your Inquire on how to repair your anvil However that is just my .02 cent worth .

I would love to see it when production is done . I enjoy seeing your work Brother .

Yes mine has an adjustable flute damper in it .

I Am close to Cookeville TN .

Awesome work Guys .