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I Forge Iron

b_rogers

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Everything posted by b_rogers

  1. You are correct, i left out the full process somehow. I usually just do the one cycle and all is good. When i do the vermiculite cool off i was getting warps and hards spots frequently. From another forums admin: I personally would do a full spheroidal annealing on a file: Heat to about 100F above non-magnetic - 1450-1500F quench in oil repeat at just a tad above non-magnetic - 1425-1450F quench in oil Heat to just non-magnetic - 1350F Quench in oil Heat to just below non-magnetic - 1200F cool to black heat (900F), and quench Heat to sub-critical again, cool to black, quench. What this does is give you a fine grain structure with spheroidal carbides in fine pearlite. When you work the blade it will drill and file easily. When you re-harden the blade, it will start from a good place. If working with simple heat treating tools ( torch, one brick forge, etc.) this is the best approach.
  2. I have had problems before with files, especially after the vermiculite anneal having hard spots. The best advice i have been given is to spheroid anneal it, heat to non mag then in the dark watch for ALL color to be gone and quench in oil. It really cuts down on "hard spots". ymmv
  3. Thats a good start there. I have made a few Nicholson file knives, they seem to favor some sort of citric acid to get the lighter colored edge. I use lemon juice mainly, its a bit slow but it works a charm. There are a TON of factors that will affect the look, shape etc of the hamon. I also seem to have the best luck interrupted water quenching, or water first for 4, then 2 out, then into warm oil. YMMV
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