GMoore

Here's the problem. My blacksmith shop (fairly newly built) has a 20 amp circuit feeding a drop down (roller type) extension cord. I bought a new grinder with a 2hp, 115/130 volt motor. The plug on the grinder is a Hubbell, HBL5965VY, straight blade, male, industrial/commercial grade, straight, 2-pole 3 wire grounding plug, 15 amp 5-15A plug. The plug has, exactly, the same pattern as do my other power tools; two flat, verticals and a semi-round prong in a triangular pattern with the two flat prongs. The problem is, the plug won't go all the way into the receptacle. My next move is to move the grinder close enough to plug it into a wall plug. If that works, is there an extension cord which will work? The grinder has to sit far enough from the wall that the cord won't reach the wall.

I have a new Bader BIII grinder. The motor says 110/220. It is a constant speed, not variable. It doesn't plug in to my 220 outlets (like I use for my MIG and my Plasma Cutter). Too small. And, it doesn't plug into my 110 outlets (prongs to long). But, the plug is the same pattern as both, just different size. I'm far from being an electrician. In fact, I believe that lights come on when you flip the switch, by coincidence. Help!

Is there a reference guide for which 72" grinding/sanding belts to use, removing metal, sharpening, etc. to use?

I've got tool boxes, chests, racks, hangers, buckets, etc. I've got more tools that I will ever need. I've got tools I don't need. I've got tools to fix tools. I've even got tools I don't even know what they are. And, what do I do when I need a particular tool. I look for it, and can't find it. So, I go buy another one (Harbor Freight if its a tool I won't use often, and places which sell better tools I anticipate using on a regular basis). See the lack of logic there. If I were using the tool on a regular basis, I could, probably find it again. Then the process starts all over again, with the exception of the tools bought at garage sales . Never can tell when you might need that 5 1/5 inch, plastic handled, Phillips screwdriver - a red one. Why isn't the 1/2 " 1/2" drive socket in the socket drawer? Because I laid it down next to the forge the last time I used it, and it rolled under the coal.

I'm just getting in to knife making. I am a passable smith, and just got a new grinder (Bader BIII). There is a wrecking yard down the road, and I thought I would go by there and ask about buying some leaf springs. I understand they are good for making knives. But, which ones are good? Car or truck? Old or new? Which ones should I look for? Thanks in advance.

Get it drunk and take it out to dinner.

My forge is named Gary Forge.. I am an archaeologist, and one of the most ugly spear points in Texas is named the Gary point. It is old and ugly. My name is Gary, and I am, also, old and ugly.

Have a Bader BIII. Looking for suggestions on the working height (say, the base level of the grinder). Stands, Bader make one? Alternatives?

Got a Bader BIII grinder. Am looking for suggestions on sanding belts to start with (for grinding metal and wood - scales), sat 10 belts. Suggestions for grit, brand, etc. Thanks

Thanks for the help. that's the fellow.

A couple of weeks ago, there was a contestant on Forged in Fire who was eliminated early. But, he was a hammer maker, and I would like to find out who he was. Any ideas? Thanks

All of the above and Damas.

Decided on the KMG. Suggestions on types of 72" belts (brands and "grit"). I know I will add to this initial list, but am looking for about a dozen belts, of various types. Will be making my initial dive into blade making. I think I will start with pre-shaped blades, until I get the hang of grinding on the KMG, then switch over to making my own blanks. Thanks, in advance.

I, really, appreciate the lead. I've been reading everything and looking at everything available - for about three years. But, reading about them on advertisements does little more than tell you what the manufacturer wants you to know. Users can tell me more. Nope, decided against the Bader. Too expensive. Your KMG suggestion seems to hit the spot.

O.K., one last time. I'm looking for a 72" knife grinder (hopefully, with a stand) for LESS than $2000. I want to buy the best for the money. I don't need wisecracks. I don't need curmudgeonly put downs. I'm 78 years old and can out-curmudgeon almost all of you. I did write a newspaper column for about ten years, titled The Occasional Curmudgeon. No, I don't have experience in making knives, but I am a fair smith. No, I don't have the time to play games. Please, if you have a good suggestion, give it. Thanks

Commercial link removed. You can list the name or take a screen shot of the picture but linking is a violation of TOS.

Should such be used?

This is for a plain plasma cutter, no computer involved. I guess i could build one on my own, but I'm wondering if there are plans/ideas out there. If I know the design, I can build it.

What kind of grinders and three burner forges are used on Forged in Fire? Just wondering. Thanks.

Not a misquote. Tractor Supply, Kerosene, $45/gal.

O.K., starting over. I want to get into the knife making "business." But, I, really, don't want to do it with an eye to selling the knives. I would be willing to spend $1500 to $2000 for a good knife grinder, with the appropriate tooling and belts. Suggestions?

Well, if I want to use the recirculating pump, I would have to put about 15 gals. in the parts washer. But, then again, I really don't need the recirculation feature, not, do I need the $150 price tag the fluids would cost. I priced kerosene, but the $45/gal. price scared me off. Still looking.

It is a fact. No matter what size shop you build, it will only be one-half the size you need.

I live in Oregon, on the western slope of the Cascades. Everything rusts. I want to clean everything I can fit in the parts cleaner.

I have a Harbor Freight parts washer. It works fine, for what it is intended, but I am wondering about the cleaning fluid. I used 10 gal. of HET, 1501 (it really needs 15 gal. to reach the pump (but, not necessary). Here's the trouble. The fluid evaporates RAPIDLY. The fluid costs about $50 per 5 gal can. What would you propose - kero?